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Thread: BWB-10-OEM 473nm laser module info thread

  1. #26

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    I messed with it a little more today and was ablt to fix the divergence down to about 1.5-2mRad! At 50ft the dot is about the size of a quarter now. That's much better than I expected.

    I used the optics from a dead green laser I had lying around. There were two lenses that I had to add to get the divergence down. The cool part is that I was able to mount them both inside the module itself. You'd never know I messed with the beam unless you take it apart.

    The fist lens I mounted as close as I could to the pump diode itself. I didn't want to use epoxy for two reasons. First it takes too ling to dry and unless the lens was mounted perfectly, the first time, it would have been a pain in the ass to have to remove it, re-gule it and let it dry again. Secondly, the lens really doesn't need to be cemented in place so I just used hot glue. It's not pretty, but it works.

    For the second lens I machined off the brass holder on the green module and that will allow me to adjust the dept of the second lens to adjust the focus. There is space after the IR filter but before the photo diode to fit the mount for the second lens. So the IR filter is between the two lenses.

    Oh by the way, DO NOT MESS WITH THE DIODE!!!!!!!! I, unknowingly, unscrewed the diode mount and miss aligned the diode relative to the optics. It wont lase unless the diode is in just the right spot, or if it does lase it'll lase at TEM-WTF!!! You've got like 1/2 a mm of tolerance to get it in the right spot. It took me the better part of an hour to get the damn thing to lase again.

    Finally after much fine tuning and adjustment it's lasing again and with a nice tight beam. I probably lost a few mW form the lenses, but it's a small price to pay for a better beam. It's got great divergence now.

    These are the lenses from the green laser:


    The KPT for the green laser is right under this lens:


    The second lens conveniently has threads:


    I cut off the mount from the old module to hold the optic.



    Here is the first lens mounted right nest to the diode, which is inside that pale plastic housing.


    The front assembly bolts on nicely even with that brass holder glued in there.


    Here is the dot at over 50ft, whereas before it would have been like 2ft in diameter.



    -Tony

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by mophead View Post
    Here are a few hi-res shots of the driver, control pcb and head (thanks to kyle for the head pics).

    Maybe we can figure out pinouts, serial connections, and which pot is which.

    Attachment 16753Attachment 16754Attachment 16755Attachment 16756
    Here is the pinout of the connector 15 pin VGA connector on the Version 4.0 09/03
    Laser diode TEC(+) Pin 8 Dark Green
    Laser diode TEC(-) Pin 9 Yellow
    Laser diode Thermistor Pin 14 Brown (shared with Crystal Assembly Thermistor)
    Laser diode Thermistor Pin 15 Red
    Crystal Assembly Thermistor Pin 12 Black
    Crystal Assembly TEC (+) Pin 13 Purple
    Crystal Assembly TEC (-) Pin 11 Pink
    Beam Pickoff Photodiode Pin 5 Red
    Beam Pickoff Photodiode Pin 10 Black
    Laser Diode Anode (+) Pins 1&6 Light Green and Grey respectively tied together.
    Laser Diode Cathode (-) Pins 2&7 Blue and Orange respectively, tied together.
    There is a diode in the back where the wires enter the casing that is across the Laser Diode, the cathode of the diode is connected to the anode of the laser and the anode is connected to the laser cathode.
    Pin 4 on the VGA loops to Pin 9 (Yellow)
    Pin 3 on the VGA loops to Pin 8 (Dark Green)

    Be careful on one of the lasers with the same version level the wires to the crystal assembly TEC were switched.

    I hope this helps

  3. #28
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    well I finally got around to playing with mine, would do 2mW no matter what I did... without the pic it would start off at 25mW and I could watch it step down to 2mW... so figure the micro was messing with my life... used a flexmod for the diode and now its doing 15mW stable

    anyone make custom tec drivers for this thing?

  4. #29
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    There were some low cost controllers for TEC on Ebay awhile back, around $55 usd and $15 shipping, just type in tec controller. I hope that helps you. I have replaced the diode, realigned it, and changed weak capacitors on the boards and have not been able to get more than 7mw output, but that is stable output. Also if you get a part number LNS-44 from All Electronics, and mount it on the front of the unit it will lower the divergence. It is a Newport PAC046, which I hear is good.

  5. #30
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    I am just using the controller it came with to run the TEC's and the Flexmod to drive the diode... works great!

    will have to add one of those to my next allelectronics order!

  6. #31

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    I have a spare controller (I fried the diode in the head it mates with) if one of you who was cursed with an unhappy controller wants it. I tested it with another head and it works just fine.

    Have you guys with low output power tried pulling off the photodiode, or adjusting the power set pot? (see post #5 for more info)

  7. #32
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    before I put a flexmod on it I removed the photodiode and played with the power pot... it would come up to higher power initally and then quickly fold back to ~2mW... after putting the flexmod on there its a lot happier

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dark Light View Post
    Here is the pinout of the connector 15 pin VGA connector on the Version 4.0 09/03
    Laser diode TEC(+) Pin 8 Dark Green
    Laser diode TEC(-) Pin 9 Yellow
    Laser diode Thermistor Pin 14 Brown (shared with Crystal Assembly Thermistor)
    Laser diode Thermistor Pin 15 Red
    Crystal Assembly Thermistor Pin 12 Black
    Crystal Assembly TEC (+) Pin 13 Purple
    Crystal Assembly TEC (-) Pin 11 Pink
    Beam Pickoff Photodiode Pin 5 Red
    Beam Pickoff Photodiode Pin 10 Black
    Laser Diode Anode (+) Pins 1&6 Light Green and Grey respectively tied together.
    Laser Diode Cathode (-) Pins 2&7 Blue and Orange respectively, tied together.
    There is a diode in the back where the wires enter the casing that is across the Laser Diode, the cathode of the diode is connected to the anode of the laser and the anode is connected to the laser cathode.
    Pin 4 on the VGA loops to Pin 9 (Yellow)
    Pin 3 on the VGA loops to Pin 8 (Dark Green)

    Be careful on one of the lasers with the same version level the wires to the crystal assembly TEC were switched.

    I hope this helps
    so technically i just connect pin1&6 and 2&7 to a proper DC power then the laser will light up?

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by EntropySnow View Post
    so technically i just connect pin1&6 and 2&7 to a proper DC power then the laser will light up?
    Sure, as long as you have a controller running the TECs to get the diode and crystal assembly at the correct temperature.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Diachi View Post
    Sure, as long as you have a controller running the TECs to get the diode and crystal assembly at the correct temperature.
    thanks~
    but i just want to test whether the laser head is good so i am wondering that just connect diode power for seconds and leave the rest pins unconnected..
    is this going to damage the head?

  11. #36
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    A couple of seconds won't damage anything as long as you drive the diode at the right current. But that's not a good test of whether or not it works as the components are highly temperature sensitive, so even if the diode is powered it may not work, or it may work slightly, or it may be unstable if it does work, it could even work fine for a few seconds, just depends on the temperatures being right.

    Not saying don't try it, just something to be aware of.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diachi View Post
    A couple of seconds won't damage anything as long as you drive the diode at the right current. But that's not a good test of whether or not it works as the components are highly temperature sensitive, so even if the diode is powered it may not work, or it may work slightly, or it may be unstable if it does work, it could even work fine for a few seconds, just depends on the temperatures being right.

    Not saying don't try it, just something to be aware of.
    thank you very much for what you sad which helps alot.
    so the next thing i need to figure out is the volt and current the diode works on and same as the TECs.
    may be i can use a MCU and other stuffs to build a homemade driver.
    well..can anyone who has the official driver help me to get the volt on the diode and TECs? I'll be very appraciated

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by EntropySnow View Post
    thank you very much for what you sad which helps alot.
    so the next thing i need to figure out is the volt and current the diode works on and same as the TECs.
    may be i can use a MCU and other stuffs to build a homemade driver.
    well..can anyone who has the official driver help me to get the volt on the diode and TECs? I'll be very appraciated
    No problem!

    The TECs are temperature controlled using their respective thermistors for temperature sensing. So they aren't constant voltage, you'll need a TEC temperature controller to run those. Perhaps someone can provide temperature measurements - although there's likely some variation between heads.

    As for the LD, it's an 808nm diode so if it's running at spec power it should be 1.8-2.2V (perhaps lower if it's running at a lower power than spec). Current will depend on the diode and what it was intended to run at. You want a current regulated supply for that anyway, not voltage regulated. Not sure on current for these - I sold my unit some months ago so I'm unable to check.

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diachi View Post
    No problem!

    The TECs are temperature controlled using their respective thermistors for temperature sensing. So they aren't constant voltage, you'll need a TEC temperature controller to run those. Perhaps someone can provide temperature measurements - although there's likely some variation between heads.

    As for the LD, it's an 808nm diode so if it's running at spec power it should be 1.8-2.2V (perhaps lower if it's running at a lower power than spec). Current will depend on the diode and what it was intended to run at. You want a current regulated supply for that anyway, not voltage regulated. Not sure on current for these - I sold my unit some months ago so I'm unable to check.
    (where is my reply...i click the button the gone...)
    can't think about a proper word to express my thank to you . Really really thank you.
    I do get all the equipment except the DRIVER lol... I'm actually a gratitude in a electronic lab so equipment shouldn't be a problem. I'm gonna test it once the head arrives. Should be arrived tomorrow.

    once again .THANK YOU.

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    subbing.. .. have a few I never did much with them.. V5.0 is the one that won't lase at all. R & G leds work but...8-27-2004 n/p I want to use w/ 07E corrected. So.. ty D.

    hak
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    Thank you for adding your location--we have great members in China.
    I feel you are a bit confused--TEC (cooling) is very rare in star pointers... as they are used mostly for short times and portable lasers with TEC are RARE.

    TEC cools your laser head --some are on all the time and others are temp. controlled and work when needed--PLEASE post a link to what you have coming--I am thinking if it is a module it will already have a driver..
    DO NOT be quick to test-- as the wrong set-up will harm your 473..
    This thread is not about your laser except in color.
    I do not think you will need TEC--
     
    also please post photos of your 473 BUT DO NOT POWER until you get reply from forum regarding your photos and your link.. there is only ONE correct way and direct from battery can be very bad... even just a few seconds...

    hak
    Last edited by hakzaw1; 10-01-2016 at 09:17.
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    Quote Originally Posted by hakzaw1 View Post
     
    Thank you for adding your location--we have great members in China.
    I feel you are a bit confused--TEC (cooling) is very rare in star pointers... as they are used mostly for short times and portable lasers with TEC are RARE.

    TEC cools your laser head --some are on all the time and others are temp. controlled and work when needed--PLEASE post a link to what you have coming--I am thinking if it is a module it will already have a driver..
    DO NOT be quick to test-- as the wrong set-up will harm your 473..
    This thread is not about your laser except in color.
    I do not think you will need TEC--
     
    also please post photos of your 473 BUT DO NOT POWER until you get reply from forum regarding your photos and your link.. there is only ONE correct way and direct from battery can be very bad... even just a few seconds...

    hak
    well.. thanks for your concern but i don't think i'm confused
    my head is nearly the same as the photos in this thread except for i haven't got it since we are in national holiday.
    my plan is to figure out a way to build a star pointer with this and i know this head is not portable and bright and hard to drive.
    when i get it i'll post some photos here.

    have to say that in chinese forum no one can be this ethusiasm like you. i have taken a lot of efforts to find something about this head but in ruins until i found this forum.
    really appreciate!

  18. #43
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    OK
    ..if you have the laser part of these-- you need the rest.. but I hope you are not expecting a bright laser and one with a beam as visible as your green pointer.
    To our eyes-- to be equal in perceived brightness- from a 50mW 532 green it takes 200 mW of blue.. maybe less because 473 is a brighter blue.
    It will still be a nice (big) laser--but a poor star pointer. (compared to 532nm).

    My plan is to replace the pump with a diode blue at 465nm-at 3000 mW my driver is small enough to fit inside the head-I'm adding a fan or 2. Only going with more active (TEC) cooling if needed.. the 2.5A driver is new and only 25usd.
    analog modulation and thermal protection..reverse polarity protected- has has all you want.. the correction lenses I will use are $45 (and a good deal!)
    It will go into a full color projector I am building for laser show.
    good luck-- we will get email if you post more..happy to help.
    BEYOND-FB3/APC40Mamba Black(clone & currently on loan) 2X 5paghetti & 2 I-Show 2X KGB 1000mW 532 DT40K (pair)XFX 1300 RGB full color RGB 30K DIY 3.5WRGB work in progress et al..assorted ttl chi-jectors--LOTS of LUMIA DIY pjs-
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    yes i know it won't be so bright but the color is really really fasinating isn't it
    will post here if succeed lighting it up.

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    1.jpg
    2.jpg
    3.jpg
    4.jpg

    need little help here..
    i just got my 473 head and i power it up according to the pin layout provided in this thread...
    well..actually it did light up but not 473nm. it's only 808nm...
    i tried to increased the voltage on the diode, up to 3V but only made more 808nm light..

    wondering what's wrong. is it the temperature(TEC) ?

    (I set the current limitation to 1A, but all the way up to 3V, the current is not over 1A. I can't remember the specific digits...
    Last edited by EntropySnow; 10-06-2016 at 02:43.

  21. #46
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    WOW lots of stuffs inside.. have not opened mine just yet..
    the 'way' these 'came' were never high power 473--they did not have to be

    ..most likely these we have were replacements for big argon lasers- in things like high speed printers-dna sequencers, confocal microscopes etc.. then *these* were replaced based upon hours of use and THEN they come to us....yeah..
    now we have multi-W blue diodes and these can become so much more than they ever were in previous lifetimes..yeah..
    mine will have a correct 07E.. so.. yeah..

    GL with your star pointer project.. hak
    BEYOND-FB3/APC40Mamba Black(clone & currently on loan) 2X 5paghetti & 2 I-Show 2X KGB 1000mW 532 DT40K (pair)XFX 1300 RGB full color RGB 30K DIY 3.5WRGB work in progress et al..assorted ttl chi-jectors--LOTS of LUMIA DIY pjs-
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  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by hakzaw1 View Post
    WOW lots of stuffs inside.. have not opened mine just yet..
    the 'way' these 'came' were never high power 473--they did not have to be

    ..most likely these we have were replacements for big argon lasers- in things like high speed printers-dna sequencers, confocal microscopes etc.. then *these* were replaced based upon hours of use and THEN they come to us....yeah..
    now we have multi-W blue diodes and these can become so much more than they ever were in previous lifetimes..yeah..
    mine will have a correct 07E.. so.. yeah..

    GL with your star pointer project.. hak
    yes this head was once a part of a some kind machine..
    well..so it could also be the lifetime problem? if the lifetime is done...i could never light it up again right?
    but since the 808nm diode seems alright, maybe it's crystal problem...
    (i thinks my 300RMB just thrown into the sea..

    tnank you

  23. #48
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    Alignment probably. I have several of these and most of them were misaligned. It's a real ********* to align them, but it is possible.
    Btw, watch out with that 808 exposed like in the picture. It is not because you can't see the light that it cannot harm your eyes.
    Tip to align: use a video camera to see the beam. Then you can see where the focus is, ...

  24. #49
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    thanks for tip and i do use my cellphone's cam to see the 808
    so..how to align them..i'm afriad of messing the whole thing up

  25. #50
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    Depends what is out of alignment. could be the diode, could be the prism pair or the lenses. Impossible to say which moved. You could inspect the screws and see if there is a component where you can see the glue doesn't correspond with the screw anymore. Then most likely that will be the part to realign. But again, it could be every part.

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