Page 4 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 70

Thread: BWB-10-OEM 473nm laser module info thread

  1. #31
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    UCSB
    Posts
    715

    Default

    I have a spare controller (I fried the diode in the head it mates with) if one of you who was cursed with an unhappy controller wants it. I tested it with another head and it works just fine.

    Have you guys with low output power tried pulling off the photodiode, or adjusting the power set pot? (see post #5 for more info)

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    3,590

    Default

    before I put a flexmod on it I removed the photodiode and played with the power pot... it would come up to higher power initally and then quickly fold back to ~2mW... after putting the flexmod on there its a lot happier

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Hubei China
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dark Light View Post
    Here is the pinout of the connector 15 pin VGA connector on the Version 4.0 09/03
    Laser diode TEC(+) Pin 8 Dark Green
    Laser diode TEC(-) Pin 9 Yellow
    Laser diode Thermistor Pin 14 Brown (shared with Crystal Assembly Thermistor)
    Laser diode Thermistor Pin 15 Red
    Crystal Assembly Thermistor Pin 12 Black
    Crystal Assembly TEC (+) Pin 13 Purple
    Crystal Assembly TEC (-) Pin 11 Pink
    Beam Pickoff Photodiode Pin 5 Red
    Beam Pickoff Photodiode Pin 10 Black
    Laser Diode Anode (+) Pins 1&6 Light Green and Grey respectively tied together.
    Laser Diode Cathode (-) Pins 2&7 Blue and Orange respectively, tied together.
    There is a diode in the back where the wires enter the casing that is across the Laser Diode, the cathode of the diode is connected to the anode of the laser and the anode is connected to the laser cathode.
    Pin 4 on the VGA loops to Pin 9 (Yellow)
    Pin 3 on the VGA loops to Pin 8 (Dark Green)

    Be careful on one of the lasers with the same version level the wires to the crystal assembly TEC were switched.

    I hope this helps
    so technically i just connect pin1&6 and 2&7 to a proper DC power then the laser will light up?

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Yellowknife, NT, Canada
    Posts
    2,147,484,113

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by EntropySnow View Post
    so technically i just connect pin1&6 and 2&7 to a proper DC power then the laser will light up?
    Sure, as long as you have a controller running the TECs to get the diode and crystal assembly at the correct temperature.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Hubei China
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Diachi View Post
    Sure, as long as you have a controller running the TECs to get the diode and crystal assembly at the correct temperature.
    thanks~
    but i just want to test whether the laser head is good so i am wondering that just connect diode power for seconds and leave the rest pins unconnected..
    is this going to damage the head?

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Yellowknife, NT, Canada
    Posts
    2,147,484,113

    Default

    A couple of seconds won't damage anything as long as you drive the diode at the right current. But that's not a good test of whether or not it works as the components are highly temperature sensitive, so even if the diode is powered it may not work, or it may work slightly, or it may be unstable if it does work, it could even work fine for a few seconds, just depends on the temperatures being right.

    Not saying don't try it, just something to be aware of.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Hubei China
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Diachi View Post
    A couple of seconds won't damage anything as long as you drive the diode at the right current. But that's not a good test of whether or not it works as the components are highly temperature sensitive, so even if the diode is powered it may not work, or it may work slightly, or it may be unstable if it does work, it could even work fine for a few seconds, just depends on the temperatures being right.

    Not saying don't try it, just something to be aware of.
    thank you very much for what you sad which helps alot.
    so the next thing i need to figure out is the volt and current the diode works on and same as the TECs.
    may be i can use a MCU and other stuffs to build a homemade driver.
    well..can anyone who has the official driver help me to get the volt on the diode and TECs? I'll be very appraciated

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Yellowknife, NT, Canada
    Posts
    2,147,484,113

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by EntropySnow View Post
    thank you very much for what you sad which helps alot.
    so the next thing i need to figure out is the volt and current the diode works on and same as the TECs.
    may be i can use a MCU and other stuffs to build a homemade driver.
    well..can anyone who has the official driver help me to get the volt on the diode and TECs? I'll be very appraciated
    No problem!

    The TECs are temperature controlled using their respective thermistors for temperature sensing. So they aren't constant voltage, you'll need a TEC temperature controller to run those. Perhaps someone can provide temperature measurements - although there's likely some variation between heads.

    As for the LD, it's an 808nm diode so if it's running at spec power it should be 1.8-2.2V (perhaps lower if it's running at a lower power than spec). Current will depend on the diode and what it was intended to run at. You want a current regulated supply for that anyway, not voltage regulated. Not sure on current for these - I sold my unit some months ago so I'm unable to check.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Hubei China
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Diachi View Post
    No problem!

    The TECs are temperature controlled using their respective thermistors for temperature sensing. So they aren't constant voltage, you'll need a TEC temperature controller to run those. Perhaps someone can provide temperature measurements - although there's likely some variation between heads.

    As for the LD, it's an 808nm diode so if it's running at spec power it should be 1.8-2.2V (perhaps lower if it's running at a lower power than spec). Current will depend on the diode and what it was intended to run at. You want a current regulated supply for that anyway, not voltage regulated. Not sure on current for these - I sold my unit some months ago so I'm unable to check.
    (where is my reply...i click the button the gone...)
    can't think about a proper word to express my thank to you . Really really thank you.
    I do get all the equipment except the DRIVER lol... I'm actually a gratitude in a electronic lab so equipment shouldn't be a problem. I'm gonna test it once the head arrives. Should be arrived tomorrow.

    once again .THANK YOU.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Churchill(hour S from Houston)
    Posts
    1,354

    Default

    subbing.. .. have a few I never did much with them.. V5.0 is the one that won't lase at all. R & G leds work but...8-27-2004 n/p I want to use w/ 07E corrected. So.. ty D.

    hak
    BEYOND-FB3/APC40Mamba Black(clone & currently on loan) 2X 5paghetti & 2 I-Show 2X KGB 1000mW 532 DT40K (pair)XFX 1300 RGB full color RGB 30K DIY 3.5WRGB work in progress et al..assorted ttl chi-jectors--LOTS of LUMIA DIY pjs-
    Powered by Pangolin
    Former (2.5 yrs) ILDA Member- :-(
    uncertified ILDA LSO -- dont ask

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •