stacking red LOC's ?

[polishedball]

What is the ideal height to offset the reds when stacking on top of one another?
Thanks

[logsquared]

What lens are you using?

[polishedball]

looking for all the mix and possibilities right now. I haven't yet purchased lens. I have some olike and axiz but eyeing the optima's.

[swamidog]

the axiz lenses have kind of a large spot at aperture when focused at infinity. i find this makes knife-edging reds kind of unsatisfactory.

looking for all the mix and possibilities right now. I haven't yet purchased lens. I have some olike and axiz but eyeing the optima's.

[andy_con]

as an example an aixiz lens will give you a 5mm by 3mm beam at aperture.

so i oset the height between each diode at 4.5mm

[andy_con]

the axiz lenses have kind of a large spot at aperture when focused at infinity. i find this makes knife-edging reds kind of unsatisfactory.

knife edging with big beams is much easier than small beams

[logsquared]

It all depends on how much power you want and how big your mirrors are. For a four banger with out telescope and 3mm mirrors use a 4mm FL lens. For the same with 5mm mirrors use 8mm FL. Aixiz glass is the best value here IMO. Note: Aixiz glass lens and LOC are hard to get a good beam after a telescope. Not impossible, but hard. Andy_con has built over a million different combos. I'm sure he will chime in at some point.

[andy_con]

you would need telescopics when using aixiz lens, well if doing more than four diodes that is.

ts probably best to work backwards, so what power do you want? then work out the best way to achieve that

[catalanjo]

knife edging with big beams is much easier than small beams

Always assuming that your using a Tscope !

Cheers

[andy_con]

Always assuming that your using a Tscope !

Cheers

indeed

[polishedball]

I do have a couple different variations telescope glass to play with.

[LaNeK779]

if you use the optima lenses you can expect a beam of 2x3.5mm from each diode @ 0.5 mrad with less than 1% loses.

You can combine 6 diodes like ::: and get a beam of approx 6x6.5m.

then all you have to do is choose the appropriate ratio telescope. if you choose 3:1 you can have an exact match for most dpss green beams (approx 2mm diameter and 1.5mrad divergence)

[catalanjo]

if you use the optima lenses you can expect a beam of 2x3.5mm from each diode @ 0.5 mrad with less than 1% loses.You can combine 6 diodes like ::: and get a beam of approx 6x6.5m....

You also get a bit broke ! jpshakehead.gif ...LOL

Cheers

[Anthony]

You also get a bit broke ! jpshakehead.gif ...LOL

Cheers

Why would you get broke?
six Optima lenses are somewhere in the 120 a 180 dollar region...
Loc diodes are not to expensive....
Are those telescope optics expensive?

[polishedball]

You talking $30 per lens instead of $5 or less for the aixiz or olike lens so on a 12 diode build you would be an extra $300 or more.

The current project involves testing with multiple lens combinations.

my current stack is

...
...

But will be testing even more stuff soon.

telescopes I think are $50~$60 for a pair then whatever mount you need.

[Solarfire]

You talking $30 per lens instead of $5 or less for the aixiz or olike lens so on a 12 diode build you would be an extra $300 or more.

The current project involves testing with multiple lens combinations.

my current stack is

...
...

But will be testing even more stuff soon.

telescopes I think are $50~$60 for a pair then whatever mount you need.

Don't forget that with an aixiz lens you have a 25-30% loss v. <3-4% loss on the Optima, which means you need about 25% more hardware to get the same results in power with the aixiz lens.
Not to mention the subject of beam quality and also not mentioning that 3-4 Optima collimated beams will fit into the area of 1 aixiz collimated beam.

Just my accumulated experience after having worked with both lens types (amongst others).

Cheers!

Optima aperture on a millimeter grid

[Anthony]

Don't forget that with an aixiz lens you have a 25-30% loss v. <3-4% loss on the Optima, which means you need about 25% more hardware to get the same results in power with the aixiz lens.
Not to mention the subject of beam quality and also not mentioning that 3-4 Optima collimated beams will fit into the area of 1 aixiz collimated beam.

Just my accumulated experience after having worked with both lens types (amongst others).

Cheers!

Optima aperture on a millimeter grid

Thats exactlly what i thought...
Using inferiour optics would cost you more in the end.

I could justify the use of a cheap Loc diode over a more expensice opnext 637 diode....
But than again.... you need less power.. less hassle with isolating the diodes from ground.
I think it's all about costs vs performance... most bang for the buck.

[polishedball]

Did you do tests with telescopes?

Don't forget that with an aixiz lens you have a 25-30% loss v. <3-4% loss on the Optima, which means you need about 25% more hardware to get the same results in power with the aixiz lens.
Not to mention the subject of beam quality and also not mentioning that 3-4 Optima collimated beams will fit into the area of 1 aixiz collimated beam.

Just my accumulated experience after having worked with both lens types (amongst others).

Cheers!

Optima aperture on a millimeter grid

[MisterWilling]

You talking $30 per lens instead of $5 or less for the aixiz or olike lens so on a 12 diode build you would be an extra $300 or more.

I think once you see a beam with the Aixiz after telescope you will change your mind on using this lens or similar. Its possible to get a decent beam but not worth the time and impossible sometimes. And its impossible to get 12 different beams to be right; you may get a few of them to have decent divergence after the telescope but not all of them.

When starting this time consuming build you have to make sure you avoid things that can waste endless hours of your time. like lenses in sloppy threaded mounts (like aixiz), just my 2 cents

[polishedball]

I think once you see a beam with the Aixiz after telescope you will change your mind on using this lens or similar. Its possible to get a decent beam but not worth the time and impossible sometimes. And its impossible to get 12 different beams to be right; you may get a few of them to have decent divergence after the telescope but not all of them.

When starting this time consuming build you have to make sure you avoid things that can waste endless hours of your time. like lenses in sloppy threaded mounts (like aixiz), just my 2 cents

The current project involves testing with multiple lens combinations.

Yep I figured that but was gonna still plan on testing wit ha block of 6, just to show and gain more info. i still have some not much but a little hair to pull out

[Solarfire]

Did you do tests with telescopes?

Not yet, I’m trying not to need telescopic lenses. I’ve got a set of broadband Thor Labs 3:1 here just in case I do.
Doing an 8 banger giving a beam @ the aperture of 3.5 x 4mm is no problem with the Optimas or the 405-G2. 2 x :: thru a PBS. I’m going to do a combo 1 x 445nm @ 1250mW + 8 x 658nm @ 2400mW. This build will be on a 300mm x 250mm x 8mm glass baseplate, all components will be precision glued via a template, which will be removed after placement of all diodes and optics. The mirror mounts have a 10mm x 10mm foot print. The base plate is large enough to also carry a 500mW 532nm and a scanner. This optic section will be hermetically sealed from the rest of the projector. Heat or cold will be transferred in and out of the enclosure via TECs which connect the inside atmosphere to the outside. A regulated fan on the inner and outer heat sinks supply air (or nitrogen, keeps things dry) circulation, temperature within the module is regulated. All diodes will be top TEC tempered to keep any temperature fluctuations away from the optics carrying baseplate.

Now all I need is time to put it all together……….look at all this shit just laying around and not getting put together.

See the little silver baggies on the right.. That's 22 x 826ers.

The backline is the test section..

[catalanjo]

thinking2.gif I was wonderiong when someone would start thinking about glass or ceramics for a baseplate precisely due to their excelent rigity and thermal insulation properties.!

Questions.
How do you cut the (heat out) TEC holes in the glass plate ?
What glue do you use between brass or ally and glass ?
Why 658s instead of 637s ?
Why would you want heat IN ?

Sounds like a really interesting rig boing.gif
Cheers

[Solarfire]

No holes in the glass baseplate. The TEC is going thru the back wall of the module, connecting a heat sink with fan on the inside and the same on the outside, this is just for maintaining the internal module temperature (internal air flow). It replaces conventional fans which draw dirt into the projector environment. The top of the module is a heat sink for all the diode TECs (6 small 15mm x 15mm TECs) and the sides of the module are made of 4mm aluminum. I found that the CPU heat sink/fan combos are excellent for this purpose.

As for the glue, it’s just some glue I found here in Germany specially made for bonding NE metals and glass, I also use it to mount mirrors, prisms and cylinders and other optics (it’s called UHU glass). Takes long to cure, but when it’s cured, you have to break something to get it apart.

Why 658s instead of 637s ? Hmmmm.. I’m probably more of a fan of the deeper red. I think I would rather pump out more power of 658 to keep this shade of red up to the blue and green levels. Plus it’s a better bang for the buck. Gives a good beam with the Optimas or the 405-G2s and they have reasonable power, if not wasted.

Why would you want heat IN ? It may be cold outside, then you need heat!

In my testing I’ve found that a tension free setup (no screws on the optical component setup, accept the 2 on each mirror mount) has big advantages. There’s a lot less work going on due to thermal imbalances (especially on multi diode setups) and that under tension.

Cheers!

[catalanjo]

Good glue info ! ThankYou..GIF

Cheers

[taggalucci]

if you use the optima lenses you can expect a beam of 2x3.5mm from each diode @ 0.5 mrad with less than 1% loses.

You can combine 6 diodes like ::: and get a beam of approx 6x6.5m.

then all you have to do is choose the appropriate ratio telescope. if you choose 3:1 you can have an exact match for most dpss green beams (approx 2mm diameter and 1.5mrad divergence)

I've read that when using telescopics it is better to use 8mm FL lenses rather than 4mm. With the figures quoted above for 6 stacked, would the divergence be better/larger/same, the diameter smaller/larger/same with 8mm FL and a 3:1 telescope?

Also, could you PBS cube combine 2 of these 6 stacks and achieve the same beam specs?

Has anyone got a 12 banger built with LOCs or OpNext single mode diodes, used Optima lenses and used a telescope? If so, what are your beam specs, which Optima lenses did you use and which telescopic optics did you choose?

Optima seem to do 2 different 8mm FL lenses, but I cant work out which would be better. Any recommendations? http://optima-prec.com/molded.htm