How do I choose Mirror size?

[onsatmex5]

I am thinking about getting new Cambridge 6215HB scanners. It looks like I have 5mm mirrors at the moment.
Do I need to stay with the 5mm mirrors or is there an advantage going to the 3mm mirrors....what's the difference?

[edison]

Scanspeed. I would choose the new eyemagic 7000,s. Read this:

http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...anners-EMS7000


Beamheight is 29 mm so a drop-inn solution and allot cheaper then cambridge ones.

[-bart-]

Barts rule of thumb:

With a typical orthogonal: configuration
If you can shoot it through a M2 washer without the beam hitting the metal use 3,5 mm mirrors.
If you can shoot it through a M2,5 washer without the beam hitting the metal use 4 mm mirrors.
If you can shoot it through a M3 washer without the beam hitting the metal use 5 mm mirrors.
If you can shoot it through a M4 washer without the beam hitting the metal use 6,5 mm mirrors.
If you can shoot it through a M5 washer without the beam hitting the metal use 8 mm mirrors.
If you can shoot it through a M6 washer without the beam hitting the metal use 10 mm mirrors.

[LaNeK779]

well, to my opinion, 5mm mirrors (i.e. 7 mm width suitable for 5mm beam size) is easier to live with
especially with multidiode red and 445 setups
and the loss of performance is not so major after all

[dnar]

Barts rule of thumb:

With a typical orthogonal: configuration
If you can shoot it through a M2 washer without the beam hitting the metal use 3,5 mm mirrors.
If you can shoot it through a M2,5 washer without the beam hitting the metal use 4 mm mirrors.
If you can shoot it through a M3 washer without the beam hitting the metal use 5 mm mirrors.
If you can shoot it through a M4 washer without the beam hitting the metal use 6,5 mm mirrors.
If you can shoot it through a M5 washer without the beam hitting the metal use 8 mm mirrors.
If you can shoot it through a M6 washer without the beam hitting the metal use 10 mm mirrors.

I can shoot my 2.5mm beam through a M6 washer, so should I use 10mm mirrors?

[LaNeK779]

well, i can shoot my laser through any washer, more precisely through any metal in general.
Should i stop using a 1kw CO2 ????


ps. sorry for the spam, barts rule of thumb sums it all up very very nicely

[loopee]

Speaking for someone (me) that has the CT6215 HB scanners beam size will be the biggest problem especially when you start looking at the “cheaper” multi diode based lasers (as opposed to DPSS)

The CT6215 HB does 60Kpps with the smallest mirror (5mm width to support 3mm laser aperture) as you increase mirror size the maximum scan rate will drop in quality as the scanners need to deal with the increased inertia, saying this though 99% of the time you’ll be scanning at 30Kpps

The decision should be made on either what lasers you have or intend to use with them

I’ve learnt the hard way that it’s next to impossible to get a cheapish multi-diode red not to overflow off the mirrors (especially with the earlier 635 flashlight lasers)

I would heed LaNeK779 advice and go with the larger mirrors

Some things to note with the CT6215 HB is that the scanner amps are bigger and may not just drop in place of the old ones, the scanner mount will be bigger and you may need to replace the power supplies as well

CT6215+mounted+-+1.jpg


Troy

[onsatmex5]

Thank you guy's for explaining it for me!

So it's looking like....

If I want a so called "drop in solution" I should go with the Eyemagic 7000,s?

Do the the eyemagic 7000,s come with 5mm mirrors as the standard size?

If I go with the eyemagic 7000,s can I get away with not having to purchase a new power-supply?

Thanks

[Doc]

Thank you guy's for explaining it for me!

So it's looking like....

If I want a so called "drop in solution" I should go with the Eyemagic 7000,s?

Do the the eyemagic 7000,s come with 5mm mirrors as the standard size?

If I go with the eyemagic 7000,s can I get away with not having to purchase a new power-supply?

Thanks

I'm not intending to come across as a smart arse, but if you are spending 'proper' money on high quality galvos then it would be foolish to try and save what is relatively pennies on a decent PSU for them. Every time the DAC asks the galvos to move, the amplifiers need power to make it happen, they need amps to make torque: Lame power supply = lame control over the mirrors.

[onsatmex5]

Yes you are correct... that's not being smart a** That's being smart

What would you suggest for a power supply?

It would need to be small because the case is very limited in size, but also need to get the job done!

[Doc]

You would need to check the manual for the galvos that you choose, then hunt down a supply that fits the bill (and the case).

[mixedgas]

Also with better galvos figure on larger gauge wiring, adding some cheap protection in the form of extra filter caps, and a few blocking diodes in case a power supply goes nuclear.
You want short, direct, leads from each galvo amp to the caps and the power supplies, making sure not to share the "power return" ground leads with your input signal ground.

With a good FAST galvo, 4-5 amps peak flows in the ground leads, and this can cause "lifting" which shows up in the image if you do not wire grounds and feeds correctly. which is easy.
I'm amazed at the poor wiring that comes with some "Import" galvos.

Steve

[Bradfo69]

@Steve - When you clip off a toenail and toss it in the trash, there is more electronics knowledge in that scrap of dead cells than I'll ever hope to know or retain but, since I bought two sets of the EMS7000's, I'm curious for a laymans description of filter caps and blocking diodes and how they work or get integrated into the whole scheme of things.

I'm really hoping to swap a set out in one of my projectors in place of DT40's without having to pay the PL member manufacturer to do it and, I understand that they require a new (quality) power supply that some people have had difficulty in tracking down. Although I've never done it, I would like to think I was competent enough to change out a power supply and the galvo amps and scanner block. Now you have me worried. I understand using "larger gauge wiring". I understand keeping the wires as short as possible but, don't know what you're talking about with respect to adding in "filter caps & blocking diodes" etc.

I need to study the existing wiring too and, see if I can figure out what you mean about not sharing grounds as I've always heard about using a star grounding method in a projector to connect everything together. Maybe once I study this projector this will make sense but, as I read your comments, it's not registering.

Thanks!