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Thread: Omnichrome 532 Laser Head and Model 171 Power Supply

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    310

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    What interlocks do you currently have jumpered?

    It is normal for the PSU fan to not turn on until power is going to the head. I noticed the same with mine.

    I turn the key all the way to the right for a second or 2, then back to on. Then flip AC on, all red lights go out, fan PSU turns on, then the head fan also turns on. This whole time, while there is a connection between the head and PSU, with no switches, or key turns, there will be a green light on the head on as well.

    When running (before I had a fan hooked up the the P3) I had the interlock on the fan jumpered, and 6 pins on the P2 jumepred.

    For the fan, I mapped out what pins on the connector matched up to the interlock pins on the umbilical. If you have a circular 7 pin connector. Using the following schematic, you can map out what each of the 7 pins do. Also sent Sam the info, I believe it'll be on the FAQ, if it's not already.

    ...2...1
    5....4...3
    ...7...5

    1 & 3 --- 115VAC Hot & Neutral
    2 --- 230VAC hot
    4 --- GND
    5 --- Nothing. If you notice, this is the pin with no metal inside the connector. Just plastic. This pin is referenced in the manual, though I do not remember under what condition it will actually serve a purpose.
    6 & 7 --- Interlock (jump these two)

    As far as the remote DB25, the 170, 175, and 176 all have the same getup. I have the following jumpered.

    1 & 3 --- Beam Interlock *
    6 & 18 --- Current control using the PSU's pot **
    19 & 21 --- Safety Interlock ***

    * - This interlock prevents the laser head from receiving HV without a solid connection with the umbilical, as well as the fan. If a connection is breached, and then fixed, lasing will begin again once the 35 second warm-up finishes.

    ** - This is one of two potential shorting procedures to use the pot for current control. Shorting 7 & 18 (light control) results in a similar outcome. However, the latter method resulted in me reaching a full 9.48A at about a quarter turn. Leading me to believe I was getting full lines with only 25-30% power. Using 6 & 18 allowed me to only reach 9.48A after completing almost a full cycle with the pot wiper.

    *** - Similar to the beam interlock. Prevents the master power relay from activating unless power cables are firmly in place (including the fan connector(s)). Also requires the head cover to be in place. If deactivated, then reactivated, lasing will commence again once the 35 second warm-up is gone through yet again.

    If you suspect an issue with the current, or would like to monitor it, jumpering pins 9 & 11 will allow that.

    I slipped some metal strips, bent them at a 90*, then slipped them in the connector. This allowed me to clip my DMM probes to them to meter. When metering, 100mV = 1A. Ranging from 0 - 1.2V.

    The goal with this post was to include every possible bit of info that I needed when trying to get mine to work. I hit several walls when getting this one to lase. From interlocks not working until I removed, and replaced them. Also keep in mind that depth doesn't matter if you're not making contact with the walls.

    Again, not trying to insult anybody's intelligence, just trying to cover all the bases.

    I think that just about sums it up...
    Last edited by SoulFeast; 02-11-2014 at 14:28.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Orange County, CA
    Posts
    236

    Default

    Thank you very much for the complete information above! Knowing that the power supply fan does not turn on until the laser is operating is valuable information since otherwise it indicated to me that the power supply was faulty. Unfortunately, the high voltage ignitor on the laser head stopped working and I need to diagnose which component is faulty. Probably the trigger SCR. Once I get the ignitor working again, I will definitely apply all of the information you provided.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Orange County, CA
    Posts
    236

    Default

    I got lucky and won an auction on ebay for an Omnichrome 171B power supply. The back of the power supply listed the 543 laser head. After receiving the power supply, I jumped the DB25 pins as instructed above. After a 30 second warm-up, the laser fired up! It just goes to show, you need the proper supply for the laser head. Thank you for everybody's input on this topic.

    Click image for larger version. 

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