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Thread: Need help installing PT-A40's into Laserworld Club Series

  1. #1

    Default Need help installing PT-A40's into Laserworld Club Series

    Hey guys,

    I have a friend that bought a set of PT-A40 scanners to install in some old laserworld club series lasers.

    We got everything mounted up but have an issue.
    the ILDA board has 4 wires going into the XY+OUT and a pig tail that splits those 4 into sets of two. Those each went to X and Y on either side of the old scanner driver board (two wires each)

    The new PT-A40's have individual driver boards for X and Y but the signal wire for these have 3 wires. The ilda board has 2...

    Not sure what to do from here. Do I need a different ILDA board that has two separate 3 pin connectors for X and Y?

    Please help!

    Thanks guys
    "This is not "work". It's a disease, addiction and passion. Only slightly cheaper than cocaine, but similar effects."
    -dnar

  2. #2

    Default

    "This is not "work". It's a disease, addiction and passion. Only slightly cheaper than cocaine, but similar effects."
    -dnar

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Charleston, SC
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    2,147,488,122

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    You don't need 3 wires per amp for the signal input.

    This gets back to a common misconception about signal input to scanner amps: You do *not* want to connect ground to the signal input. You only connect X+ and X- (or Y+ and Y-) to the signal input. So you only need 4 wires. (Lots more information here, if you're interested in the why...)

    Now, the only problem you may run into is whether or not the breakout board on the projector is actually giving you the correct signals. Before you hook anything up, verify which ILDA pins are connected to those green and black / blue and black wire pairs.

    I would expect ILDA pin 1 (X+) to be on the blue wire, with ILDA pin 14 (X-) on the adjacent black wire. Likewise, I would expect ILDA pin 2 (Y+) to be on the green wire, with ILDA pin 15 (Y-) on the adjacent black wire.

    If everything checks out like I've described it above, then you can plug those connectors directly into the PT-40 amps. Blue goes to X+ on the X amp (so towards the bottom where the heat sink is, with the black wire in the middle of the 3-pin connector and nothing on the top one). Green goes to Y+ on the Y amp (same way).

    Now, if those black wires on the connectors from the breakout board are NOT connected to the X- and Y- pins, then you've got some work to do. You will need to find which pins *do* carry those negative signals, or worst case you'll need to connect jumpers from the 25-pin header on the board itself. Looking at the pictures though, it does appear that the negative X and Y are broken out on other connectors, so you should be able to find them easily enough if they aren't already routed to that center 4-pin header.

    Adam

  4. #4

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    Awesome! Thank you I'll check these tonight.

    Another thing I noticed is there is a 15v header on the driver boards and a 15v header on the ilda card.

    But when I put a voltmeter on the 15v power out header of the driver I'm not seeing any voltage?

    - - - Updated - - -

    I'm getting the 24v in from the PSU

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Charleston, SC
    Posts
    2,147,488,122

    Default

    If I remember correctly, that power output port on the PT-40 amp is supposed to be +/- 12 volts, even though it's labeled as 15...

    Regardless, there *should* be voltage on those pins. Unless they've changed the PT-40 amp since the last time I bought a set. (Which was a few years ago, admittedly.) If you don't have any power there, you might have to rig a pair of voltage regulators (LM7812 / LM7912) off the main scanner power supply in order to supply power the ILDA breakout board.

    Adam

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