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Thread: modules from Goldenstarlaser anyone?

  1. #1
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    Default modules from Goldenstarlaser anyone?

    Anyone tried any of the new diode based modules goldenstarlaser sells?
    I don't really need a DPSS quality or Atenlaser quality beam profiles but I'd like them to not be a total mess when it comes to multiple diode alignment and obviously have beam correction since they use multimode diodes.

    I'm considering getting their RGB modules which has the dichros aligned already but on the other hand upgrading these in the future with higher power ones might be less cost efficient as I need to swap all of the (R,G,B) modules at once.
    On the other hand I have the knowledge to repair and realign dead diodes if that happens so whether I'll get the RGB module or separate R, G and B modules and dichro them together myself the repair cost should be the same.

    (I'm interested in the 10W RGB module.)

    Their complete 10W projector cost still make it more affordable for me to build the case myself and the rest of the electronics and connections ($2500 saved on each projector, 3 projectors needed).


    PS. Yes, I'm the guy building a 7W projector currently from the ground up, this is for a client for permanent installation, I don't have the time to build my own.

  2. #2
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    Which ones in particular did you have your eyes on? They vary in how they combine between the different modules, and I think they have changed the layouts over time.
    I've got some of the OEM-W4000 and 2W 520 OEM modules.
    The W4000 are very good for the price I paid, however the alignment is done based on how the beams exit the diode mount, so you end up with some wavelengths slightly higher lower than the others, so you get a bit of fringing at close range until the divergence sorts it out a bit.
    If I had the time/inclination I'd be shimming the mounts to fix it. Steering mirrors would sort it out properly but the module wouldn't be as compact as they are.
    They are supplied with what look like TechHood drivers, but I understand they can be supplied with better ones. Worth an ask.

    The 2W 520 modules should (imho) be PBS combined, but they're not. They're knife edged and anamorphic prisms used in a slightly strange way, with one beam entering the short end of one prism.
    The gap between the beams could also be tighter, and it'll be something I'll be changing on mine when I get the chance/time.

    Also, be aware that the ones I got, although listed as 1W 520 were actually a 700mW diode cranked to as far as it'll go (~900mW)
    I contacted John about this and he said he was buying what he thought were 1W diodes from local resellers, which seems to be a common issue. I put him in touch with Jordan who explained the different diodes and John has since told me he's got different source.

    But if you are buying, you should confirm you are getting what you think you are.

    Have you spoken to GS about their cases? I find them very cost effective, and they can do custom CNC work if you need special things. I got them to do apertures and mounts for Stanwax ILDA boards on the back plate. I just sent Sketchup 2D renders with dimensions marked and they did the rest, and it didn't cost much more.
    Frikkin Lasers
    http://www.frikkinlasers.co.uk

    You are using Bonetti's defense against me, ah?

    I thought it fitting, considering the rocky terrain.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by norty303 View Post
    Which ones in particular did you have your eyes on?
    The 10W RGB module (3W red, 3W green, 4W blue), I think it's new and only one version:
    http://goldenstarlaser.com/index.php...product_id=512

    They are supplied with what look like TechHood drivers, but I understand they can be supplied with better ones. Worth an ask.
    That's like 10kHz modulation, right? yuck.
    However this is a 10W module, might be a different situation. Sure, I'll ask them.

    The 2W 520 modules should (imho) be PBS combined, but they're not. They're knife edged and anamorphic prisms used in a slightly strange way, with one beam entering the short end of one prism.
    Thanks for letting me know. I'm going to use their 8x14mm scanner mirrors so I think they should fit in them without too muvh overspill.

    Also, be aware that the ones I got, although listed as 1W 520 were actually a 700mW diode cranked to as far as it'll go (~900mW)
    I contacted John about this and he said he was buying what he thought were 1W diodes from local resellers, which seems to be a common issue. I put him in touch with Jordan who explained the different diodes and John has since told me he's got different source.
    Thank you again.
    But I guess as long as the total power is 3W minimum I'm okay with whichever diode they use, there's plenty of cooling in my design. I'm guessing for both the red and green they use 4 diodes for each, either PBS'd or just all kinife edged. But as long as they fit in the mirror I don't care much.

    Have you spoken to GS about their cases? I find them very cost effective, and they can do custom CNC work if you need special things. I got them to do apertures and mounts for Stanwax ILDA boards on the back plate. I just sent Sketchup 2D renders with dimensions marked and they did the rest, and it didn't cost much more.
    Thanks for the idea. The shipping weight is probably too much for this to be cost effective.
    I've made one of the cases already and all the material cost + CNC work + powder coating + optical plate + all the drilling and tapping tips cost around $200. And it's a 50x30x30 case with plenty of room for future upgrades. Weights around 30kg. I think just shipping one to Europe would cost as much. Granted it did take 4 days 6 hour each hard work drilling and tapping 114 holes but for 3 projector cases it's cost effective for me.


    Out of curiosity what do you use the 4W green projector for? I think it's bright enough to be visible for outdoor but close range (<20m) beams.

  4. #4
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    I think you misunderstand about the 700mW diodes. Its not about how cool your design is, its how hard they are being driven, which will reduce their MTBF and cause them to drop in power as they warm up.
    |
    I don't have a 4W green module. I have W4000 (whitelight/RGB 4W total power) and 2W 520 modules.
    Yes they are capable of being used outdoors, and at bigger than 20m.
    |
    In this shot is a pair each of 4W, 8W and 20W RGB projectors, using greens of 1W, 2W and 6W powers.
    This is an outdoor stage in a woodland clearing, and the beams were visible a long way back.
    For effective outdoor shows you need 'atmosphere', not 'just' big lasers. Get the atmosphere right and you don't 'need' the big lasers.
    I spend as much time thinking about the hazing as I do about the lasers on those shows.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Frikkin Lasers
    http://www.frikkinlasers.co.uk

    You are using Bonetti's defense against me, ah?

    I thought it fitting, considering the rocky terrain.

  5. #5
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    I have the 8 watt version of the module you are looking at. It's a beast. Beam is at least 4 mm square at aperture - maybe more. Alignment is tricky. I've cracked the lid twice to tweak it to get rid of fringing. Oh, and you'd better have awesome heat management in your projector, because these things get HOT. Fortunately the drivers will shut down on thermal overload, but only when the whole rig heats up to around 150 F. (!) Make sure you get good info on the drivers, because you'll want to adjust the gain to get better color balance...

    Adam

  6. #6
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    Adam, are the 8W modules TECed?
    The smaller ones aren't and don't suffer heat issues.
    I wonder if they are TECing them, if replacing the peltier with a solid plate and passive cooling via the baseplate might be a better option.
    I seem to recall a thread with Planters where it was felt that in most scenarios with DI, passive is better than the extra heat introduced into the system with peltier cooling.
    Frikkin Lasers
    http://www.frikkinlasers.co.uk

    You are using Bonetti's defense against me, ah?

    I thought it fitting, considering the rocky terrain.

  7. #7
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    Adam, hows the modulation for you?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Finale
    Adam, hows the modulation for you?
    Which one of us are you talking to?
    For me its ok, although the Techood drivers don't have any threshold/bias control. For me its not too much of a problem, as I tend to fit colour correction boards in all my projectors so I can adjust turn on points finely across all my projectors, without having to have loads of different custom colour settings saved in Beyond for each combo of projectors on each FB3
    Frikkin Lasers
    http://www.frikkinlasers.co.uk

    You are using Bonetti's defense against me, ah?

    I thought it fitting, considering the rocky terrain.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by norty303 View Post
    Adam, are the 8W modules TECed?
    Yes, and that is a significant source of heat. However, the drivers themselves also get very hot. Together, they create quite the heat load that needs to be actively managed or your projector will overheat and shutdown. (I've had this happen several times.)

    I wonder if replacing the peltier with a solid plate and passive cooling via the baseplate might be a better option.
    The red diodes really need to be cooled. I think without the TECs you might be in danger of cooking the reds. But with the TECs everything inside the module stays very cool. (Easily 5 to 10 degrees below ambient.)

    I can also say with utter certainty that passive cooling is nowhere near enough with the TECs they use. My projector design had a 1/4 inch thick aluminum baseplate that was also the bottom of the projector. We're talking a piece of aluminum that is ~ 9 inches wide and 21 inches long. It would overheat and shut down after about an hour of continuous use. And at that point the entire projector was hot enough to burn you when you touched it. (!)

    New design (still under construction) is to make the entire baseplate out of a finned aluminum heatsink and then add fans to force air through the fins.

    I seem to recall a thread with Planters where it was felt that in most scenarios with DI, passive is better than the extra heat introduced into the system with peltier cooling.
    That was his personal preference, and I respect that. However, you need very good heatsinking if you go passive, and you will still end up with a higher diode temp when running. I prefer the temperature stability of a TEC, especially if you find yourself running your projectors in various challenging environments (think hot outdoor shows and crowded nightclubs). Granted, TECs can be a problem if your heatsink is undersized and/or you don't have forced air cooling (as in my initial design), but when they are properly set up, TECs will give you lower and much more stable diode temps, which I believe is the key to long life.

    Quote Originally Posted by Finale View Post
    Adam, hows the modulation for you?
    Modulation seems fine. (No tails or artifacts) My problem is color *balance* between identical modules. I don't have the datasheet for the drivers, so I can't adjust the gain individually. If I had color boards installed like Norty does, that would solve the problem, but I hadn't planned on adding those. Might need to add a simple color gain circuit, but if I could get more info on the drivers I would just adjust the color balance there.

    Adam

  10. #10
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    I have a 0.4 inch aluminum plate and a finned heatsink under that and array of fans under that. Do you think that's good enough? Heatsink is 240x140x20mm.

    And hows the beams for you? The data they sent me tells that at 15m the blue is 34x6cm even though they correct the fast axis.
    Last edited by Finale; 06-28-2017 at 06:02.

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