The big TEC driver thread!

[LaNeK779]

so, assuming that we get the right kind of code for this, what equipment is required to get this code into the chip?

[dnar]

A simple In-circuit programmer is all that is required via the 6 pin header. A run of the mill Atmel ATMega micro controller is used.

[Solarfire]

so, assuming that we get the right kind of code for this, what equipment is required to get this code into the chip?

The CodevisonAVR Evaluation version (free) is enough for reprogramming the ATtiny13 code. A USB to SPI Interface for flashing costs about 22€. Unfortunately I’m not familiar with the programming of an ATtiny13 (I’m more out of the win applications area and PLC’s programmed via IEC 1131 ST), it wouldn’t be a problem to make basic changes to the code but implementing a PID loop could prove to be a little more challenging without a little more advanced knowledge of the ATtiny Programming. The code space should be enough though to realize a PID loop. Shifting the desired Temperature externally to ones needs could be realized with a simple VR in series to the NTC.

Cheers!

[LaNeK779]

so i have to build something like this?

http://www.google.gr/url?sa=t&source...0OntDwS92XAm3w

sorry about the absolute lack of knowledge, i have no idea how these things are done. or is this any better ? http://www.kanda.com/products/kanda/STK200.html


edit: just saw the very usefull post from solarfire. the fleabay seller quoted me 4,5 euro for shipping 5 pcs to greece. not bad at all. thanks to dnar and solarfire for the explanations

the way i see it, if this thing is programmed to work over a 5 degree window, it should not be too hard to make it a 1 degree window, provided that you have the code

[dnar]

The CodevisonAVR Evaluation version (free) is enough for reprogramming the ATtiny13 code. A USB to SPI Interface for flashing costs about 22€. Unfortunately I’m not familiar with the programming of an ATtiny13 (I’m more out of the win applications area and PLC’s programmed via IEC 1131 ST), it wouldn’t be a problem to make basic changes to the code but implementing a PID loop could prove to be a little more challenging without a little more advanced knowledge of the ATtiny Programming. The code space should be enough though to realize a PID loop. Shifting the desired Temperature externally to ones needs could be realized with a simple VR in series to the NTC.

Cheers!

I already have PID loop code to suit. P or PI may be all that is required however, and thus less code again.

[Solarfire]

so i have to build something like this?

http://www.google.gr/url?sa=t&source...0OntDwS92XAm3w

sorry about the absolute lack of knowledge, i have no idea how these things are done. or is this any better ? http://www.kanda.com/products/kanda/STK200.html


edit: just saw the very usefull post from solarfire. the fleabay seller quoted me 4,5 euro for shipping 5 pcs to greece. not bad at all. thanks to dnar and solarfire for the explanations

the way i see it, if this thing is programmed to work over a 5 degree window, it should not be too hard to make it a 1 degree window, provided that you have the code

It could probably be enough to just change the initial values of the TEC on/off variables in the code.. not pretty but could work if TEC, NTC and diode are all nice n close together

[Solarfire]

I already have PID loop code to suit. P or PI may be all that is required however, and thus less code again.

Well shit.. That’s even better! Do you need a board for testing?

[dnar]

Well shit.. That’s even better! Do you need a board for testing?

If you can shoot me a board, I am happy to provide updated firmware. I have TEC's etc here already.

[LaNeK779]

how about i send you 10 boards, you work your magic and then send back as many as you wish, keeping a number of boards for your effort and time?

[dnar]

Works for me. I'll PM you my home address.

I loaded the code you sent me, it compiles. Looking at reworking for PID now.

BTW, the temperature limits are hard coded and based on a 100Kohm thermistor. I will start with 25c as the setpoint, unless you feel it should be lower. I may also change the thermistor to 10K once I see a board, as these are more common.