My new homebuilt 1.5W projector

**gashead** · 06-03-2010, 10:51

Originally Posted by Kiwi Tinker

my 0.75W full colour projector has been sitting in the garage for the last 3 months in a black plasic rubbish bag

Dude... if I give you my mum's address in Wellington, do you wanna courier it down to her ? I'd be happy to take it off your hands..

No Doubt the poor projector would get broken on it's journey to sunny Burntisland.. but Its worth the risk!

Sorry you've left however.. I'm not entirely sure why.. I think your mistaking peoples passion for safety and to uphold the good reputation of the industry as hostility..

Cheers,

Nige.

**Kiwi Tinker** · 06-09-2010, 22:59

Heya Buffo

Do you work for BP?

cheers

robert

**daction** · 06-10-2010, 04:33

aye up my duck.

**White-Light** · 06-10-2010, 04:56

Originally Posted by Kiwi Tinker

Heya Buffo

Do you work for BP?

cheers

robert

BP - Brilliant Photonlexicon? You bet he does!

**Kiwi Tinker** · 06-20-2010, 06:20

Heya all

I broke a mirror...will lets just say the mirror 'fell out' when cleaning it.

An words of wisdom?, i'll put a video so you can all have a laugh at my efforts....lol

cheers

robert

**Kiwi Tinker** · 06-26-2010, 17:15

Heya eletroFreak

Thanks very much for your reply. Thats was pretty much my thoughts.
I'm going to put the galvo into to the glavo mounting block and use one of it's edges to sight the mirror so it's perpendicular to it's axis. Alas i don't have a decent level to level the mounting block so like the centrality of the mirror to the mirror mounting fork, ill have to eyeball it.

Any thoughts on using a PVA release agent to protect the part of the mirror thats not being glued?

cheers

robert

**Kiwi Tinker** · 07-27-2010, 05:25

Heya All

I repair the mirror as described, it looked good and the repaired galvo makes no more noise the it did before.

I've tryed share to my experiances sinece i repaired the mirror but i'm afaid to discuss my observations and draw universal loathing so i'll say no more. They where gained by less then scientific methods. But i now have some concrete beliefs reguarding laser safety and MPE.

keep safe

robert

**Kiwi Tinker** · 06-16-2011, 01:57

Heya all

http://www.youtube.com/user/Dannyvir.../0/d0Qax378NZE

cheers

Robert

**daction** · 06-18-2011, 17:08

lookin good cuz.

**cybertoyz** · 06-18-2011, 20:16

Nice job!!! What are you using for your red?? When you upgrade to a 1.5 are you interested in selling the 1watt?

Steve

Originally Posted by Kiwi Tinker

heya white light

Thanks for the comment about the case, it's my design i made all in my garage
except the brake press work which was done by a local firm.

The wavelenghts are i think, i might be wrong about the blue i have to check, there all CNI diodes.

250mW/532nm (green)
250mW/473nm? (blue)
1000mW/650nm (red)

the green and the blue are analogue and the reds TTL, i'm hopeing to
upgrade the red to 1.5W with a.m in the future.

cheers

Tinker

**Kiwi Tinker** · 06-18-2011, 21:49

heya cybertoys

Cheers. I've upgraded to a 200mW 635nm, and i've already sold the 1W red to Daction.

Take it easy

Robert

**cybertoyz** · 06-18-2011, 22:16

Hey Robert.
I am curious why a 200mw 635 laser would be an upgrade from a 1Watt laser?

Originally Posted by Kiwi Tinker

heya cybertoys

Cheers. I've upgraded to a 200mW 635nm, and i've already sold the 1W red to Daction.

Take it easy

Robert

**gashead** · 06-21-2011, 02:35

Originally Posted by cybertoyz

Hey Robert.
I am curious why a 200mw 635 laser would be an upgrade from a 1Watt laser?

I'm guessing he typo'd and means 2000mw OR, wavelength wise 635nm is certainly a upgrade from a 650nm due to apparent brightness.

Keep cool, till after school.

Chur,

N.

**Kiwi Tinker** · 06-21-2011, 05:32

Heya All

No typo there, it is 200mW 635nm. It's a about as visible as the 1w red. The 635 has analogue Modulation, where the 650 was TTL, the 635 has a smaller beam and the diode also switchs off if it stops receiving it's signal, where the 650 did'nt, it beamed if it stopped receiving a signal.

Cheers

Robert

**cybertoyz** · 06-22-2011, 00:16

Robert,
Thanks for the clarification. Makes total sense to me now.. So next question is where do you get a 200mw 635nm laser?

Originally Posted by Kiwi Tinker

Heya All

No typo there, it is 200mW 635nm. It's a about as visible as the 1w red. The 635 has analogue Modulation, where the 650 was TTL, the 635 has a smaller beam and the diode also switchs off if it stops receiving it's signal, where the 650 did'nt, it beamed if it stopped receiving a signal.

Cheers

Robert

**LaNeK779** · 06-23-2011, 15:46

i don't know about the 200mw 635, but i do know about 170mw 637nm Opnext HL 63133 DG diode. pricey little bugger... and my little bag of coins is not nearly heavy enough yet

or you can take a normal 660 LOC and chill it to -40C.......... that should get you close to 635nm

**Kiwi Tinker** · 06-23-2011, 16:29

Heya all

All my diodes are CNI, i get them from the people i used to sell lasers for in China. Can't remember what i payed for it. I'm sure there alot cheaper now thou. I do'nt know much about CNI diodes there are many people here far more qualifyed than me to have a oppion on them, but i've brought a total of 8 of them have never had a single issue with any of them, and i've probably handled them poorly at times too. Cheap diodes i've had seem to die around the 6-10 month period. Reguardless of use.

cheers

Robert

**taggalucci** · 06-23-2011, 16:48

Hi Robert,

Do you mean diode or module?

I have a CNI 635nm module, but it is certainly not a thin beam, it's a fatty and has a square shape to the beam. I think this is from two stripes combined perpendicularly.

**Kiwi Tinker** · 06-23-2011, 19:03

heya all

yeah, i had a feeling this was coming. When i spec'd the laser i asked for a 3mm dot, which is what i got. The 1w CNI 650nm i had was like 8mm x 5mm square in profile. I think i spec'd all my diodes like that, i hav'nt looked at the profile in ages. In some respects i think the the bigger the beam the better, the greater the divergence the better. Larger beams are more visible then smaller beams of the same power to me. I'll take a picture of the reds profile when i fix the projector. The other mirror i had'nt re-attached, fell out while i was installing the galvo block. I just assumed i'd hit it but now i'm not so sure. It would be nice to take advantage of this opportunity to fit the smaller mirrors i was sent with the galvos, but i have no idea where i've put them. doh.

cheers

robert

**taggalucci** · 06-23-2011, 20:52

Ok, so you have a 635nm CNI "module". There are currently no single 635nm diodes I'm aware of that will produce 200mW with the beam characteristics you described. In a module however...

Using the term "diode" was confusing some of us I think!

Good news that you have a tight 635mm module. These are generally considered "torches" because of their fat beams.

On principle, a tight beam should be more visible when scanned then a fat one as the energy concentration is higher - there was a thread recently discussing some expensive greens that have lower powers but tight beam characteristics which made them more visible.

Only downside is MPE/safety considerations with tight beams when audience scanning.

**Kiwi Tinker** · 06-23-2011, 21:38

heya taggalucci

I concur.

cheers

Robert

**sjd123** · 10-22-2011, 16:14

I only stumbled across this thread today. Apologies for re-opening but I have a simple trick that may be of interest to fellow Kiwi's...

Preamble: Read read read read and then read some more. ILDA docs, OSH regs, ETNZ etc. And when you've finished reading, read it all again. Understand what you are doing and factor everything in before each and every gig. This means taking measurements with a power meter, using BAM's and scanfail detection hardware to name a few ra ra etc etc.

Now, to the point: Go to your local specsavers and ask for a selection of '80mm AR Coated Glass Blanks' - the ones they use for making spectacles. They're under NZD$100ea.
Get a selection with a diopter rating of -0.5, -1.0, -1.5 and -2.0 to begin with. Yes, they all have a negative diopter rating. The higher the negative number, the more it will diverge the beam.
Make a mounting point for these lenses about 2-4 inches in front of your galvos (yes outside the projector's exit window) so they are interchangeable on the fly.
Carry this lens kit with you and fit as appropriate for venue and its associated MPE.

Voila! You can now run relatively high power in a small venue whilst staying well within the MPE guidelines.
Downside is FAT beams but personally I think this makes for a better show. Read: PHAT beams

Upside is increased scan angle. The further you can mount the lens from the projector (whilst still 'catching' the projection), the wider the scan angle gets.

Don't let this simple beam fattening solution cause laziness. You still need to re-confirm MPE for each and every gig and each and every time do change a lens (or anything else for than matter)

Hope this helps

-SJD

**Kiwi Tinker** · 01-28-2012, 01:17

Hello All

I was just checking the laserworld site to see if there where any updates for the laserworld show editior software and it appears they no-longer support it.

cheers

Robert

**hakzaw1** · 02-21-2012, 19:52

Hello back--- Robert-- good to see you keeping this thread alive. Like your homemade case- Are you building another new one now?

hak

**Kiwi Tinker** · 02-22-2012, 03:29

heya hakzaw1. can you show me a show of your laser? cheers.

Thread: My new homebuilt 1.5W projector

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heya all

Nice Job..

heya

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