Hey Mike,
Check your PM's regarding position tap off.
Dave
Hey Mike,
Check your PM's regarding position tap off.
Dave
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I finally managed to find the time to finish installing the safety board in my projector, and have succesfully calibrated it, using the USB link and PC software, with test image 3. As it took some time to get the adjustment of the 4 pots correct, it would be good if the PC software test mode had the option to run for more than 60 seconds continually - 5 minutes would be better, especially as there is an option to cancel it at any time.
I then set up the 2 protected zones in the PC software (both the same, for now) to allow 50% coverage, i.e. the top half of the display area is not protected, the bottom half has protection enabled. I made my own test frame with 4 static points, 2 above the 'horizon', 2 below. This works well in 60-second test mode - the 2 upper points are displayed while the 2 lower ones are blanked - but I have been unable to transmit the data permanently to the projector - I get various different cryptic error messages that appear to refer to the screen coordinates, and the message bar turns red.
So far, I've only tried it with DIP switches 4 and 5 ON.
Any suggestions?
Doc's website
The Health and Safety Act 1971
Recklessly interfering with Darwin’s natural selection process, thereby extending the life cycle of dim-witted ignorami; thus perpetuating and magnifying the danger to us all, by enabling them to breed and walk amongst us, our children and loved ones.
Try to first Upload from the scanfail, then change the zones and the send it back.
Cheers McCarrot, that seems to have done the trick - still took a few goes, but I finally got the green bar!
My DIP switches are now DIP 1,2, 5 - on; dip3,4 - off.
If I try to display a frame with a single beam 'below the horizon' it's instantly cut off, whereas a frame with a single beam 'above the horizon' lets the beam through - and it still remembers the settings, even after switching the projector off and on again. Great!!!
One more query - what should be connected to JP3 pins 1 / 2 - it says 'blank input' but I'm unsure where this should come from - the manual doesn't give any details. I'm guessing that it could be ILDA pins 3 and 16, also called Intensity - or should it be Shutter pin 13 / ground, pin 25? Anyhow, it doesn't seem to be needed as the scanfail seems to be working without anything connected to it - or am I missing something?
Wie dumm das ich fast kein englisch kann ....
Könnte jemand bitte die Fragen oder Probleme @greenalien ins Deutsche übersetzen ?
Danke
Gento
Doc's website
The Health and Safety Act 1971
Recklessly interfering with Darwin’s natural selection process, thereby extending the life cycle of dim-witted ignorami; thus perpetuating and magnifying the danger to us all, by enabling them to breed and walk amongst us, our children and loved ones.
I have some comments on the board. I,m trying to figure out how to connect the power to the board.
If i run it from the scanner powersupply i need to ad a heatink on the powerregulators. Do i have to insulate the regulators from the heatsink with a mica sheet? I can also run it from a 12v powersupply that i prefer but then i have no negative voltage. Is this possible and if so do i have to modifiy the board? Get rid of the 12v regulator?
Should have gone with the raytrack...........![]()
I'm running mine from the +24v/0v/-24v supply to the scanners. I'm using a clip-on heatsink with a mica washer - it runs pretty cool.
Maplin parts info - http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=2583
and http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=30387
Thanks greenalien
I will get some mica sheets to insulate both powerregulators, Better safe the sorry.
And then you would have no way to use static beams or small angle graphics with the raytrack as you have no zone setup.
Ans yes you need to insulate the regulators.
Its only needed to cool 12V regulator, I have mounted a small piece of alluminium 20mmx10mm to theregulator.
This makes me think something about powering the board : I find the layout bad on one point : you can't mount the board on the base plate to cool the regulators, because when doing this the power connector is no more accessible... I had to turn the connector at 180° and that was quite difficult.
Gento, if you read this, maybe you will correct that in a future release![]()
The layout is indeed a littlee bit hard to fit in the projector. Especially when you want to press the board in special plastic clips. The board is to small to make the holes in the corners 4mm in diameter like the powersupply companies have so that you can press the board in the clips.
I want to use the 4 dots next to the USB port to connect the lead from the usb plug. Does anyone know how to connect the leads fro a standard usb cable to the dots? I have 4 colours and wich goes where?
help me !
Is that wiring is correct ?
If it's ok, it will allow me to build a single cable who perfectly fit in my projector..
thank's for your reply
I only run the positive trough the scanfail, not the negative. Not sure if your schematic will work, as the optocoupler is a transistor and this will only let power trough in one direction.