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Thread: CNI OEM driver board settings

  1. #1
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    Default CNI OEM driver board settings

    Pot 1 = Diode Tec
    Pot 2 = Crystal Tec
    Pot 3 = diode current
    Pot 4 = Threshold



    Setting up the diode current:

    The shunt is the same on all the small OEM drivers (not on the big ones) its 0,33Ohm.

    This means:
    Connect your multimeter to the shunt; take care to not short anything because it will kill the diode!
    Set your meter on <2000mV to measure the mV. (Most cases 450 to 800mV standard). You can calculate the current flowing trough the diode by the formula U*3.33=I. (1,5 to 2,6 ampere for 450 to 800mV)

    The threshold potentiometer doesn’t influence the max current the diode gets! The standard threshold the most CNI's come with is between 150 and 200mV. You can add some bit more till the moment the crystal (or diode) is really close to emitting blue light / green light / red light. Most of the times you can add a lot threshold to get a nicer blanking range.

    TEC SETTINGS:
    Poorly enough there isn’t a standard formula for every CNI + driver set.

    Diode TEC:

    If you want to change the TEC temperatures you have to do it bit by bit and wait around 10 minutes for the change in temperature to get visible. Sometimes a CNI will hop 20mW higher or lower with just a little turn. Even if the power is dropping you can try turn it more in the "dropping" direction, sometimes the optimal temperature is even more in the direction that’s looking wrong first. If not just turn it back where it was.

    Weird enough the most changes can be achieved with the diode Tec. So first set up the diode Tec and if you think your done start with the crystal Tec. DONT TO BOTH AT THE SAME TIME!!! This could end in a tuning disaster.

    Kristall TEC:

    If you have your diode Tec on the optimal temperature you can start with the kristall tec. Sometimes you can get a few more mW and a lot better stability with it. For the tuning just do the same as for the diode Tec. BUT the crystal will need a bit more time to change temperature so you have to wait even longer.

    Sometimes the TEC might be in overload, witch means you can get more power by turning down the diode current! Some times this might be 200 - 400mA the diode may run lower, this is very nice to the lifetime of the diode.



    The credits goes to Pritzler.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CNI OEM.JPG  


  2. #2
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    Jan 2008
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    Default

    Source : laserfreak.net

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Austria/Vienna
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    Hello!
    I writed it before long time on laserfreak, Mauriece was so free for me to translate it for me to english for Photonlexicon.
    I thought it could help someone here, becouse I have much experience with repair CNI Lasers .

    Greets,
    Phil

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Very useful info. I just came into possession of a Chinese 30k RGB scanner that uses all CNI modules. I'll be filing this away for future use. Thanks!

  5. #5
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    i turned a little 80mW 473nm CNI into a 250mW beast with this method, although the pot assignments in the 'boxed' PSU are different, I basically did exactly what is suggested here

  6. #6
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    So, can you tell me, if you measure resistance across the shunt, what should it measure?

    Also, what is the value of the single (green) resistor on the board which is NOT smt??

  7. #7
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    I think that's an inductor, seems a bit wide for a resistor.

  8. #8
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    which? the green resistor or the shunt? Both are resistors :P

  9. #9
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    Actually, that's a RF Choke - the green resistor like package...
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  10. #10
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    Definitely a choke..

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