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Rob ...
I have a Gentec Laser power meter with a thermopile head that can read upto 10KW will this be big enough :D
this one
http://www.lambdaphoto.co.uk/pdfs/TPM-300.pdf
actually the thermopile that i have with it does upto 300W
i can bring it to the meet if you want to take some readings
all the best ... Karl
Karl
Yes please
I remember you did offer last time but in the excitement I forgot :)
Rob
Hey Rob - (sorry, Ben... BEN????:D)Quote:
Originally Posted by stanwax
Couple thoughts, relating to your 'lowER power output': I assume that with the spec sheet Brian gave you (GREAT guy, BTW!!) they listed proper tube voltages @ X Amps to allow you to keep an eye on gas pressure? They should have, and that's something to keep an eye on - and yes, I would not rely on the meter, especially if the 265 has been modded - who knows how accurate it's tube pressure readings might be...IF you've never read tube voltages directly off the tube, that is something BEST SEEN DONE LIVE, BY AN EXPERT, FIRST...for obvious reaZZZZZZons! :D
No reason to be 'afraid' of it, cause with a well educated, (where you can touch / where you can't, etc) healthy respect (not fear), you, too, can keeps tabs on your tube voltage / gas pressure, and keep it from ever getting close to 'tube-killing' low-pressure "oscillation", or suffering from 'hard starts' and low-output from high-pressure.
I have (somewhere) a video of tube voltages being taken LIVE, directly off the tube, with narration, so that could serve, BUT I imagine there are plenty of blokes over there that could show you (that is IF you don't already know, etc) - point is, you should endeavour to check it before too much longer / keep an eye on it - yellow lines CAN be an indicator of low-pressure, which is a more 'dangerous' (and more easily-remedied) condition than high-pressure... For example, how is your RED output vs blue/green? 'Strong'? 'Faint'? 'Low' Kr output, especially if 'un-improvable at lower mag-field settings', CAN BE an indicator of low-pressure (also can be dirty HR/OC/brews, but assuming those are clean, good alignment, etc, is it STILL 'low' / weak?)
Last thought is, when was the last time you cleaned your brewster windows? Even with the dust-tube sleeves over them, after awhile, they can get a coating on them / dusty, and I have seen EASILY a Watt + of improved performance from JUST cleaning the brewsters...again (and please don't take it bad if you already KNOW - it's only cause I don't know what you do and don't! ;)) something best done AFTER you SEE an EXPERT do it, live, not only 'cause #1, you do it with the head-cover off (again, need to be careful of thoZZZZZZZe certain areaZZZZ! :D) and laser-running, but #2, done INcorrectly, can result in a big LOSS of power, and if done REALLY wrong, even damage to the window... so, again, just some 'friendly fyi's' that can make big differences in the world of 'output power'...
Also, just an fyi, I (as I am sure do several others, ie: Steve (Mixedgas), etc) have a TON of spare parts for the 265s, (caps, hard-to-find fuses, etc) as well as 2-complete extra units, so, just another resource IN CASE you ever need something (that will be less $$ than good 'ol Brian! :D)
Lastly, as to the Aurora - would not recommend it - talk to Brian @ Camb, there about the Aurora FIRST, before any purchase (if you ever find one)-
AGAIN, SORRY, BEN - PLEASE DON'T BANISH US!!! :D
peace
- J
Jon First off this qualifies to hijack the thread becase it most certainly was an impulse buy!Quote:
Originally Posted by dsli_jon
In 2004 I decided I was gonna treat myself to some scanners - probly CT6800's. I saved my pocket money (well ok maybe not pocket money I am nearly 42!) and then just missed out on an nice air cooled 1W argon on eblay (Alc909 iirc) from a guy I had sold stuff to several years before. I was gutted ...until a week later when he listed the 168. I had to have it - and I won it for a bloody song so ended up with a whitelight laser and a Neos cell & 8 channel controller (for more than the CTs ...but not much more! :)) but no bloody scanners! For some months this thing was the most impressive laser crab (black widow) in all of the civilised world!
As for the other stuff. I have cleaned both brewsters and cavity optics and it was following the alignment I did after this that it really seemed to cook :) I need to check them again but will do so after the UK meet cos I know I wont get time to spend on it to do it properly before the meet - and we know what happens when you rush things.
As my background is in electronics I know the dos & donts and though im a light current kind of a guy I know the respect needed of all electrickery. I have measured the tube volts - leaving the meter off until AFTER the start pulse :) - I find they work better when not scattered around the shop im a million pieces - there is a slip of paper kicking around here in the abyss with figures on but this is old - maybe I will take some more this week as Im due to run the baby up.
Whenever I get something or get interested I will find out as much info as I possibly can - just cos Im an geek :) I listen to all - the gospel from people like Pat B and Steve R, but also the bullshit from the know it all numpties out there.
So though I would never profess to being an eggspurt or to say I know it all - I think I know enough to get by - such as dont fire the start pulse and turn current straight up to 11!.
I cant wait to show it off again in 2 weeks - yes 2 weeks tomorrow! whey hey!
Can you tell im excited :)
The yellow line is only fleeting - worse if the alignment is walked off a little - but I get loverly colour balance - red seems strong enough - with the field at zero - so reckon it cant be too bad. See below to see me enjoying it :)
Rob
Hey Rob -Quote:
Originally Posted by stanwax
LOL... well sounds like you're 'captain of your ship', there! :D great to see! - RE: tube voltages / pressure - I am sure if you send an email to Brian (or Peter Holley) at Cambridge, they'd be more than happy to supply you with the 'optimal' numbers for each Amp-range for the 168 - also, let them know what AC voltage-ranges you are using - which taps you are using on the transformer CAN affect PSU performance relative to AC V input (which I am sure you know!:D) - anyhoo.. But yeah, if you are seeing good Red, even at slightly higher mag settings, then you're prolly not more than 5-10V out - more to worry about much PAST -10V low...
RE: pix - YES, with REASON you are jazzed!! I'd DARE any of the DPSS'ers - analogue control included - to match your colors, there - just beautiful, mate!! even when one day, we 'go all-DPSS WL' for 'practicality / to stay 'competitive', I will be always partial to an Ions' color palette' - there is just a 'special quality' to it as well, beyond the inherent lines... dunno, just 'magical'..
Anyhoo, Good Show!, and cheers! :D
- J
beautiful picture rob...borderline orgasmic. For a normal argon 168 TV's will be between 237 - 243 vdc @ 38 amps field max. A white light laser will want a little lower than that. For a white light that you operate around 35 amps with the field at middle i would use 235 to around 238. Now of course Brian may suggest something for his formula...go with what he says. Any yellow is a good thing in my book. If you do choose to do a fill shot wait at least 20 minutes then measure again. IMHO the input voltage probably wont matter because a 265 is regulated very well not like lexels...anyway my .02 ...cool pix man.