i have been wondering if it would be possiable to make a custom flex cable with some copper foil tape and some self adhesive mylar....ya know just it case we need something ....different. (different mounting method,bigger cable for easier soldering..etc etc)
Nope.
Those little tiny traces are just for the thermistor. You can ignore them (for now).
I'm just talking about the big diode loops/strings/channels - whatever you want to call them. There's just one trace for each diode string/loop/channel, and it's on the other side of the cable (it looks dark brown from this side)
The farthest right loop (the one you marked up) is the (-). The other side of that loop, where the words "Positive Trace" are physically located on your photo, that's the (+).
Then you get another (-), then (+), etc, back and forth.
is it showing up now?
ok i got the wrong side (was worried about that)..ill have to scan on of my cables to get the right side..but im starting to understand what your saying...sorry..im a stickler for verification.
It's a 30 pin cable with 0.5mm spacing.
Again though, not to discourage you from tinkering, but all of this work is fairly wasted without first solving the light collimation issue.
I hate to be a broken record on this, but it's really not worth exhausting time on the electronics of it, if the optics aren't solvable.
oh i know what your saying..i got like 4 or 5 other tabs pulled up looking for collimation systems...found a few on ebay..dont know if they will work..alibaba has some but i hate going through them (they wont ever leave you alone after mailing them) and im looking for some colimnators on edmund and anchor optics.com
so my first pic where i annotated with red and white was correct?...lol i thought i got it all messed up with that one..well in any case im sure my fluke metere can tell me the polairty ..that is if i can get passed the temp erro
let me ask ya this on some of my cables,the soder as joined from both sides of the through holes..and im thinking that is causing a short...could this be why its throwing a temp error?...is it best to clean all left over solder off the cable to prevent any shorts?
I didn't see that there were little polarity marks on your image. Yep, your photo in #148 has it right.
I've told you this before:
- You're getting a temp alarm because you're not simulating the expected load on each diode channel.
- OR because you're not closing the cover sensing switch
yes i have closed the door and made sure the sensing switch was securely pushed down...im pretty sure its as you said..not sensing the load....
with your diode setup...how does it do with heat?...do you need to use a heatsink either stock or custom? or does it work fine without one?