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Hey JayDC
Neutrals are not tied together, nor do you tie together the hot leads, that causes a giant mess. (like blown breakers)
Basically take one 115v lead and wire it to the polarized plug and the other to the larger connector usually reserved for neutral. ground is the circular center plug.
If you blew a breaker sounds like you wired the two hot leads together and made the reference check against the neutral/ground line. AC hates that. (Dead short)
Ground and neutral is kinda trivial in residential outlets because they are tied together in the box. Once again, completely omit the neutral lead in the psuedo 220V your trying to make.
Check your breaker box, see if the main breaker at the top has two arms to it. if it does then you most certainly have 220v wired at the apartment.
Also, dryer outlets are 99% of the time 220v, kitchen stoves are *sometimes* 220v
If you were reading 208V it sounds like the apartment complex has amazingly poor lines or your multimeter isnt a cute little "RMS" model. Or your the luckiest man alive and the apartment complex runs 208-3phase and interesting power conditioning 
to measure with the multimeter measure the two hot leads. no neutral. (make sure the DMM isnt powered from a wall outlet, a craptastic $8 radio shack one is safer) From a practical standpoint ive seen some really shitty wiring where they decided to play "fast and loose" with the plug configurations in aparment complexes. Be careful as the last thing you will remember is waking up on the floor unable to see colors. (Spoken from experience not conjecture) Luckily i was wearing good shoes.
Keep us informed man, Im sure the *brains* here can help out.
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Shit, i forgot. A friend of mine has those amps. 6580 rev D if i remember correctly. Ill see if i cant weasel a potentiometer listing off him.
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I'll look into the buck/boost transformer. The club has always had a 208 line for it's high power, our lights and stuff run fine off it. I'm thinking that it should not be a problem, but I guess I'll find out tomorrow. I finally got the breaker box open. I have a black wire, a white wire, and a red. Black and red give me 208, but I have no breakers that are rated for that, and unfortuately I don't have a w/d or an electric stove (gas), and there is no room to add a breaker. There is also no master breaker, and I really don't want to tap into a live box. I'm going to bring the plans for the spider box into work tomorrow, and see if I can get the tech to wire it for me, since I've been having bad luck with it.
I really hope that the 208vac is not a problem for this unit, since I'd like to have this thing up and running as soon as possible. I'm wondering if I can find an electrical suppy store that will have the "buck", and not rape me on the price. Ebay has a 3kw for 149, but I kinda need it right away, so I hopefully I can find something local.
The laser in question is a reliant 300m, and it says on the side it need 240@50amps max. I'm hoping it will start on 208@as many amps as it needs, since I'll let it suck down the power, w/o a breaker. I tested it on a 220@30amps when I bought it to make sure it worked, and it seemed to be fine.
Spec, thanks, I hope your friend can get that information for me soon. I do not want to ruin my new galvos.
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Ooh... the 300M... Nice laser! One of the dental units? The laserphysics units were always my favorite heads.
One caveat. I know those won't ignite with less than 15amps of juice at 220V, so a 10 amp circuit is right out... Just FYI I always tap right of the mains
breaker.
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Well, just got back from work, and the laser worked with no problem. The actual High voltage on the line was 216-218@40 amps. It started right up, and looked great. Although the scanners are set to some extreme scan angle, and every image I scanned, I had to make alot smaller. If anyone could help out with question 1, now is the time. Tomorrow, I'll take some photos of it scanning in the big room, and of the projector and the head.
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Hi Jay! just to let you know, scanhead tuning isn't "sensitive" in fact,
most positions of the pots will produce fine images, so you could
turn each trimmer a quarter turn (and back) to see what each one does.
None of the trimmer pots make that much of a difference individually,
tuning is the process of iteratively adjusting each one down the row to
get it a hair better (or worse if you've maxxed it out, but think you can do better
and want to start again from scratch with different presets)...
Since it looks like you just want to tweak gain, then just go down each pot
while it's scanning, turn it a quarter turn and back and check the size...
Even if you dont' move the pots exactly back where they started it won't
make an appreciable difference. When we tune the trimmers, we usually
end up ging by at least a quarter turn before you can even tell you did
anything.
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Yeah, I know. These cambridge amp have alot more adjustments then my cats do. I know one will be gain, one will be damping, and one will be size, but there are two more.. I guess I afraid that one of those two will be a death pot, that instantly distroys your galvos with one slight turn. You know, like the history eraser button. "Well, what will happen." said Stimpy, "Thats just it, we don't know. Maybe something bad, Maybe something good. I guess we'll never know, cause your going to guard it. You won't touch it will you?" said Ren. Tomorrow, while I'm playing around and taking pics, I'll mess with it. Should be fine.
Oh, and adjusting brag mounts are a bitch..
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if my previous experience with scan amps is any indication then the pots should roughly have *these* functions
System offset: All parts are different and not the same, even when run by the same machine. Maybe the machine dropped a little too much iron in the substrate and the electrons like to leak more, or this cap is "a little off"
What exactly this is adjusting aside from squaring an otherwise *clean enough* circuit is unknown to me, ive never been able to get any good readings.
Low frequency damping(LFD): Basically like a crossover in an amp, removes part of the wave and cleans the rise and fall times.
High frequency damping(HFD): Same as above but for the other end of the wave.
Size(Voltage): This should be obvious when you find it, it should compress or expand the whole axis being toyed with
Gain(Amperage): The amount of current applied to the coil is directly related to how fast the guy can turn.
I personally think that all these have the availability to be dangerous. But they usually put a fuse inline the amperage one to keep from smoking the coil inside *common* scanners. i remember the 6580's having 1.3A slow-blow fuses.
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heh heh... the "offset" just moves it up or down/left or right...
it's the "centering" function 
I agree about the bragg mounts
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