ok so my head will not light, tried every thing we can think of. any tricks to get it to light? it is gas intact, this is a star 1. thanks jeff
ok so my head will not light, tried every thing we can think of. any tricks to get it to light? it is gas intact, this is a star 1. thanks jeff
Sup Sir Jeff -
Sorry to hear about yer 'sickie'... Let's see what we can do... Purelights are (nearly) indestructable...
Question 1: How you you know it's gas-intact? Neon-tester or such?
Question 2: 'Got Cathode'? I'd try 're-seating' the Amp-cnnx, and then physically check for V and I thru yer Cath lugz...
Question 3: (assuming 1 and 2 are A-ok...) Starter connected, properly? Working? (tik tik tik..)
Question 4: (assuming "Y" to #3..) Line voltage ok? (208-240V AC 3Ø, no 'stinger' legs) Is your Ground from Mains panel, all the way > PSU (thru any disconnex / twistlox, etc) solid?
Question 5: (assuming "Y" to #4..) Do you have another head to test this PSU-with? Does it work with any-other head? What is the 'matching head'? (will be labeled on the bottom of the Remote...)
Next, we'll get into the 'gorier' stuff, Tube V, PSU-internals, etc..
P'fessor Steve, jump-in anytime....
ciao fer now...
j
Last edited by dsli_jon; 01-28-2011 at 12:40.
....and armed only with his trusty 21 Zorgawatt KTiOPO4...
all yes i have not tried the other head yet, but was working new years. the controls are the same part number and for i-70, but the one that came with the new tube c's a inter-lock fault the other does not. every thing seems like it should start, but it has been a long time. thanks again jeff
Hey Sir J -
What was working, *this* head or this supply, with a different head? Standing by...
Hrmm... Only time I've seen that is-when trying to use a Remo (same 'analog' style..) from a Star II 'MotoStar' (one with the 'motorized' tune/peak...) with an older Star... Anything like that, here? (one Remo have the 'Tune/Peak' button?) Lemme know..
Oh, also, sounds 'dumb', but I would triple-check the PSU-cover interlock, and head-cover interlock - not just that they are 'seated-properly', but that, indeed, are both passing the signal / contacts are not oxidized etc - especially the head-cover ones notoriously can get funky... a little contact-cleaner and/or wire-brush werks wonders..
I would triple-triple check your cathode V and current, to make sure both in-range, pre-start, and the starter, again (hear it clickin...) And, also, what is the tube-V, pre-start? (measured across the tube, not via the 'remo'..) Finally, any 'fresh ampoules' left? Lemme know...
too much information...
cheers...
j
....and armed only with his trusty 21 Zorgawatt KTiOPO4...
Newer Digital Power supplies only, based on what I learned working on I300 series.
If the digital remotes with LCDs have a 80C51 chip in them, they have a eeprom in the remote, and the newer heads can have a eeprom in the head. In some cases you then need a temporary calibration EPROM to set things up, as the newer PSUs can (may not always) look at the tube voltage/current curve. There often times is a way in the software to start a curve recalibration, but this requires that the tube is in the correct pressure range , as the first thing the supply does is run it at Imax for a few hours before running the curve, so one should make sure the laser is PERFECT before starting it.
Easy way to tell if you have this? The head will probably have the ignitor on a long card mounted under the magnet, or there is a 8 pin chip in the head with some glue logic around it and its not a optoisolator or opamp part number, but a memory part number.
Usually if a psu is the same family, but the tube curves do not match, or its set up for a different gas, the psu will start run a countdown for 10 or 20 minutes, then shut down hard.
I'm not sure if that made it into the purelight family, but its a PITA on the I300s if the tube is at high pressure.
YMMV
Steve
its the older style power supply. mat is looking at the voltage and such.
thanks again jeff
Hey Jeff;
How did you test the other head to determine it's gas-intact? Did you see the glow yourself? (If you want, I can send you my BD-10A... That thing will definitely let you know if the tube is good or not. Just make sure it's not connected to the PSU when you try it!)
Re: the PSU... You're using the good PSU that was hooked to the good white light head that was used for the NYE show, right? And now you're connecting that PSU to the other head you picked up in Florida? I would think it would light right up if that other head was good...
Adam
Hey everyone, I'm having an issue with my purelight star at my nightclub with analog PS and control
It was working fine for a year, water light would come on and blink every 30 seconds but never turned off.
Now as soon as you "start" the laser, the water light blinks on and off every second. than as soon as the laser turns on, 3.5 minutes later shuts and fault light comes on.
Nothings changed in the past year, I've been told the water light blinking is normally a way of displaying problems. Any Help or manuals would be greatly appreciated, thank you.