Tech specs for Maxyz needed

[DZ]

... by moving the PBS too close to one of the lasers. Back reflection did me in, so it would seem.

Dang, now I have yet another expensive LED.

Back to the question raised above by dream beamz: Does anyone know what diode to buy to replace this? Or a suitable other replacement?

Now I get to drill out the epoxy covering the set screws, if that is possible. Maybe I'll just go buy own dummy resistor housing and start over...

Grrr....Mike

The long open can diode from the LPC-815 20X DVD sled works perfect as a replacement diode. The only problem, is that you have to change the current setting on the driver. As Mecheng mentioned, there will be 2 stacks of surface mount resistors, modifying this value will get you back to putting out around 220mW. It's a bit tricky, and with some repairs in the past, I opted to just replace the driver and mount a Flexmod driver to the top of the mount as in the pic attached. The long open can diodes are very cheap, I have used modwerx many times in the past and they have been very reliable. http://modwerx.com/shop/lpc815-20x-d...diode-p-2.html

[allthatwhichis]

The long open can diode from the LPC-815 20X DVD sled works perfect as a replacement diode. The only problem, is that you have to change the current setting on the driver. As Mecheng mentioned, there will be 2 stacks of surface mount resistors, modifying this value will get you back to putting out around 220mW. It's a bit tricky, and with some repairs in the past, I opted to just replace the driver and mount a Flexmod driver to the top of the mount as in the pic attached. The long open can diodes are very cheap, I have used modwerx many times in the past and they have been very reliable. http://modwerx.com/shop/lpc815-20x-d...diode-p-2.html

You sure that one is a red... Or a blue.

[DZ]

You sure that one is a red... Or a blue.

Well that particular one is a blue (445), had to drill out the aluminum cylinder to accomodate an aixiz module since the native maxy lens does not work at all with the 445nm diodes.

Here's a converted red:

[clickamouse]

I have ordered some sleds and will see about the de-epoxification process on this unit. I have a flexmod I can use. The tricky thing will be to see if the frequency matches the original, so that I can continue using the other unit with the pbs.

And I have to get the polarization just right; planning on using some polarizing film I have to sort that out.

If they don't match, I'll just keep the one unit for another use and build a 2-banger with the diodes from the sleds. I need at least .5W of red for this project.

I'm learning here by leaps and bounds.
Leaping to conclusions and bound to fry a few diodes before I get it right.

Thanks...Mike

[buffo]

The tricky thing will be to see if the frequency matches the original, so that I can continue using the other unit with the pbs.

The wavelength will be within a few nanometers. The PBS cube isn't going to care about such small differences. (You could mix 660 nm with 642 nm with that cube if you wanted.)

Wavelength differences only become an issue when you're really far off - like trying to mix red and green, for example.

And I have to get the polarization just right; planning on using some polarizing film I have to sort that out.

Or you could just use the cube. Orient the diode one way and send the beam through the cube. If the output beam is really weak, then rotate the diode and try again. (Do you have a power meter?)

Adam

[clickamouse]

>(Do you have a power meter?)

Yes, I have a LaserBee 2.1W on order; will be very useful in optimizing this.

Thanks for the nanometric advice - good news.

Lux Plus Esto...Mike