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Thread: Rebuild RGB

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Utrecht The Netherlands
    Posts
    717

    Default Rebuild RGB

    For hobby use i put together the following components

    1 x DT40K pro scanhead with drivers and psu
    2 x OneStopLasershop high end dichroic mirrors (one to reflect red and one to reflect green)
    1 x 1W blue from Edison
    1 x Quad 800mW Red from Edison
    1 x 300mW Green from LaserWave (Stanwax)
    1 x Mirror adjustable mount with mirror
    1 x PT-Itrust connector board

    See pic attached.
    Yesterday Hobbybob and I spent a whole evening drilling the base plate and finished the entire setup which was previously constructed on an optical table like board.

    Aligned the beams and did a first testshow looking very good, nice color balance but because it was already late i didn't had the time to shoot some pics/videos but will upload them soon.

    Michel

    HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY
    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Netherlands
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    3,140

    Default

    NICE!

    *random text added*

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    veenwouden
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    2,542

    Default

    That,s what we like to see. Only some heatresistive matblack paint to give it a nice finish would be good. It will give a pretty scratch resistant surface. Ask hobbybob he has my first projector with the same paint on it.

    Nice lasers by the way They seem very familiar

    Can,t wait to see some beamshots!!!!!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Sheepsville, Wales, UK
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    3,372

    Default

    Nice to see it built - looking forward to the beam pix
    Quote Originally Posted by edison View Post
    Only some heatresistive matblack paint to give it a nice finish would be good. It will give a pretty scratch resistant surface.
    I would go the anodising route anyday - much more scratch resistant than paint and does not restrict the flow of heat from the modules for cooling. That said I am lucky to have an anodiing firm 5 mins away who are very good and very reasonable.

    Rob
    If you need to ask the question 'whats so good about a laser' - you won't understand the answer.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Laserists do it by the nanometre.

    Stanwax Laser is a Corporate Member of Ilda

    Stanwax Laser main distributor of First Contact in UK - like us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/FirstContactPolymerCleaner
    www.photoniccleaning.co.uk

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Essex, UK
    Posts
    8,616

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by stanwax View Post
    Nice to see it built - looking forward to the beam pix


    I would go the anodising route anyday - much more scratch resistant than paint and does not restrict the flow of heat from the modules for cooling. That said I am lucky to have an anodiing firm 5 mins away who are very good and very reasonable.

    Rob
    might have to send some stuff your way then
    Eat Sleep Lase Repeat


    Aluminium Optic Mounts

    http://www.laser-man.co.uk/opticmounts/

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Sheepsville, Wales, UK
    Posts
    3,372

    Default

    No problem
    Turnaround is normally 2 1/2 days if they are not too chocca busy
    Rob
    If you need to ask the question 'whats so good about a laser' - you won't understand the answer.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Laserists do it by the nanometre.

    Stanwax Laser is a Corporate Member of Ilda

    Stanwax Laser main distributor of First Contact in UK - like us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/FirstContactPolymerCleaner
    www.photoniccleaning.co.uk

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Herts, UK
    Posts
    1,253

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by stanwax View Post
    I would go the anodising route anyday - much more scratch resistant than paint and does not restrict the flow of heat from the modules for cooling. That said I am lucky to have an anodiing firm 5 mins away who are very good and very reasonable
    Anodising is the canines conkers, you are lucky to have a local shop that will do a quick cheap job, mine take weeks/months/years/decades..

    A light coat of acid etch primer, de-nibbed then a micron or two of topcoat shouldn't cause a thermal barrier, rollering on 15 coats of Hammerite might do.
    A little bit werrrr, a little bit weyyyyyy, a little bit arrrrgggghhh

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Essex, UK
    Posts
    8,616

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by p1t8ull View Post
    Anodising is the canines conkers, you are lucky to have a local shop that will do a quick cheap job, mine take weeks/months/years/decades..

    A light coat of acid etch primer, de-nibbed then a micron or two of topcoat shouldn't cause a thermal barrier, rollering on 15 coats of Hammerite might do.
    15 coats, your doing it wrong. one thick coat should be fine
    Eat Sleep Lase Repeat


    Aluminium Optic Mounts

    http://www.laser-man.co.uk/opticmounts/

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    1,411

    Default

    That's some different cake, than I've seen at Ilpendam.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Utrecht The Netherlands
    Posts
    717

    Default

    yes, made some decent progress in acquiring the right components, after playing with the optical breadboard i knew where to put things and created this spacey final setup.
    Yes it is large but leaves room for an aditional red perhaps ;-)

    Meanwhile i have connected it to the power supply, shortened a lot of wires and drew a picture where the AR glass window should be put in place, something for this evening.
    Then i will put in 2 fan's with dust filters and start thinking about a section divider that separates the optics/lasers from the rest so it is less pollution sensitive.

    Then i have to put in the connector for the ilda cable in the rear and add a keylock and stickers.


    Michel

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