hey wayne,
what lens do you plan on using?
if you use the regular modwerx, aixiz, o-like you will most probably get a beam around 5x5 out of each diode, so with some clipping while stacking them you will have to combine two beams of 9x5 mm giving you a rectangular beam
if you use the optima or another short FL lens you will be much closer to a 5x6 beam, so closer to a circular beam
maybe the more experienced guys should chime in and prove me right or wrong, or maybe you have something else in mind.
cheers!
ps. TEC cooling on this one?
"its called character briggs..."
back at a build thread of mine i compare side by side the laser66 405-g-2 lens (as this was the only short FL i had available) to a standard issue aixiz plastic (which is giving almost the same results as the aixiz glass, o-like red glass and modwerx that i know you have)
short FL on the left, long FL on the right
then you can get inspiration from this post of Doc's http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...4250-Red-build
and some chat about the optima lenses here (i think i will choose these as well for my own build, buying bare glass and housing it in aixiz blank metal barrels, or dave's barells) http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...ht=optima+lens
"its called character briggs..."
Thanks mate. .
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I am not sure if the beam specs for the LPC826 are the exact same as the other LOC diodes. If so, with the aixiz glass or plastic lens about 95% of the power is in a rectangle .1 X .16 inches. With a 405-g-1 the rectangle is ~.065 X .11 inches. So, with a three wide setup you end up with a rectangle and not a square. I would suggest either a 2 wide with a PBS and 4mm fl lens and no telescope or a 3 wide over 3 with 8mm fl, no PBS and a 2.5 X telescope. If you build the 3 over 3 you can later build another and combine with a PBS and waveplate. Of course you could also use a 4mm fl lens on the 3 over 3 and a lower power telescope.
I have found that mounting the mirrors on the mounts at a 45° works better than turning the mounts at 45° angle relative to the diode mounts. The reason is that you have easier adjustment.
If the mounts are at a 45° angle (relative to the diode mounts) when you slide them closer to the diode mounts it moves the mirror to the side as well and can make it tricky to get the beams as close to each other as possible (while still maintaining the angle to keep the beams together in the far field).
I may be wrong as I have seen the mirrors mounted different ways on different individuals setups but that's what worked best for me.
When God said “Let there be light” he surely must have meant perfectly coherent light.
true ish, it all depends how you mount the mirrors to the mount.
i find its easier to align with the mounts straight onto the beams/diodes, you can knife edge better. but as you say if the mirrors are mounted wrong it can cause all sorts of problems when sliding the mirror mount back and forth
Eat Sleep Lase Repeat
Good point! My last quad build suffered this issue. Thanks.
Correct me if I am wrong, but can't you just turn the cube over to get H/V how you want?
Cool. You know what, I think I might telescopics also... Otherwise the 000 beam is not going to fit my Galvo mirrors!
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