Need Manual reset mechanism wiring help...

[megaton]

Hi Aaron

No the full bridge is to make a PSU. that does the conversion from AC to DC
In your relay you have spare contacts?

Cheers,
Ed

[allthatwhichis]

In your relay you have spare contacts?

No; I am using one set for AC power to the lasers and the other is for the LED indicators to show if the interlock is open or completed. I want the button to complete the coil circuit of the relay but I also want it to reset if the loop is broken causing the need to push it again before the loop can be completed again.

[flecom]

why not just use an estop that you have to twist to reset? thats what my OSLS uses as its manual reset

[megaton]

I think I get it what you need.
And with the Switch that you have (Normal Open) You can use it to direct connect the coil
just connect in series with the spare contacts of the relay (Com and Normal Open) to make the latch. And if some event break the circuit, the coil realse the contacts and waits for you to rest again. "I hope my English is good enough to explain this".

Oops I think I put this later.

[Carl B]

why not just use an estop that you have to twist to reset? thats what my OSLS uses as its manual reset

Try looking up for the Stanwax ILDA board that has all this built on to it and is designed to work with an E-stop with Key release, additional start / Reset button and Status LED.
I just go mine from Rob last week. One E-stop for 1,2 or 3 projectors working down the spare lines in the ILDA cable.

Carl

[dsli_jon]

Hey Bud -

I want the button to complete the coil circuit of the relay but I also want it to reset if the loop is broken causing the need to push it again before the loop can be completed again.

This is the one I designed awhile-back for integration with a Laserscope interlock-loop... works-great: (...for that-purpose...)



I've 'simplified' it for ya, with the ILDA 'interlock loop' in place of the LS interlock-loop... I am sure you can figure out how this would work, in your sys...
(save-for the 2-state LED... this one only indicates a fault, but could likely be modded to match your 2-state design...)

(...see nu design below.....)

... you could also 'sub' (in-place of the 'ILDA interlock-loop' in this drawing) the color-sig ground-lines for your lasers... basically, anything that will 'interrupt lasing' should be OK... I welcome suggestions for improvement from my 'electronics-seniors' (which is just about everybody... )

Suggested relay is, ie: http://cgi.ebay.com/OMRON-MY4N-DC24-...item5d25563faa
..and suggested socket / base is, ie: http://di104.shoppingshadow.com/imag...49x149-0-0.jpg

The only thing you'd need to 'verify' / x-check in my 'ILDA-version' would-be the 'placement' of the correct contacts to use in the relay-socket... the 'contact-numbers' are all correct (see schem) but I don't have a sample of that base, here, to ref. so I'm not positive that the contacts, are-indeed, in the positions I drew-up... But, I'm sure you 'get it'...

Try looking up for the Stanwax ILDA board that has all this built on to it and is designed to work with an E-stop with Key release, additional start / Reset button and Status LED.

...OR, yeah, sure....what Carl and/or Fle said... Both great suggestions...

Hope this helps...
peas...
j

[megaton]

^He is the Master

The thing is you need more contacts.
Or another relay.(coil in parallel)and don't forget the diode is Important.And the polarity of this.

Cheers,
Ed

[buffo]

why not just use an estop that you have to twist to reset? thats what my OSLS uses as its manual reset

Because this does not satisfy the Class IV comanded re-start requirement of 21 CFR 1040.10(f)(10) as interpreted by the CDRH. (This comes straight from Casey Stack's presentation last year.)

Put simply: With everything running and the manual E-stop in the run position, what happens when you yank the ILDA cable out? You break the loop, and the projector shuts down, right? OK, now plug the cable back in. Your projector just re-started WITHOUT A COMMAND FROM THE OPERATOR. Thus, you fail. Casey mentioned that this is exactly what an inspector will do to test your interlock in the field.

It's not just the E-stop that has to be manually re-set. For any Class IV projector, *all* starts must be commanded by the operator. And the one that will always bite you in the ass is the ILDA cable test, unless you design your interlock with a latching relay and a separate "start" switch. (Normally a normally-open, push to close, pushbutton switch.)

Adam

[flecom]

well you might want to let the CDRH know because OSLS has been selling their LT boxes as class IV and thats the only manual reset they have

pretty sure the wording says you need A manual reset... not every possibility of lasing stopping requires a manual reset

could definately be wrong...

remember Casey was extremely conservative in a lot of his opinions (as he needs to be)

[dsli_jon]

Hey Aaronmon...

...*all* starts must be commanded by the operator. And the one that will always bite you in the ass is the ILDA cable test, unless...

This one should fix-ya up - either a trip of anything in your 'mechanical' interlock-loop (keysw, door-intlk. sw. e-stop, etc, etc) OR yanking the ILDA-cable should cause a 'lock-out' state in the Omron there, that will require the manual-reset button to be pressed, with that nice-little 'visual-fault' LED as a trip-indicator...



Oh, and, fyi: http://www.opto22.com/site/pr_detail...=3&item=DC60MP

...again, to my 'electronics-elders', feel free to correct...

Hope this'll do-da trick fer ya...
peas..
j