Need Manual reset mechanism wiring help...

[allthatwhichis]

Update...

Adam took my diagram... I quote, "What a mess..." and added what I needed to add and where to run what wires and IT WORKS!!! I even soldered the transistor and a couple of resistors onto a lil radio shack printed circuitboard. Not exactly DZ quality but much better than anyone would think I could do.

when I hit the power switch on the projector the front power light comes on along with the scanner power supply, when I plug in the interlock plug the green light comes on to tell me the interlock circuit is complete and ready to start, when I hit the start button the green light goes out and the red light comes on along with the laser power supplies. If the circuit is broken for any reason, ILDA cable pulled, front panel opened, or interlock plug pulled, power is killed to the lasers. Once the offending interlock issue is fixed, the green light comes on and it takes a start button push to get power back to the lasers, aka a Manual reset.



Thank you for everyone's suggestions and assistance!!!

[dsli_jon]

hey Bro...

...and IT WORKS!!!

Most-excellent werk...

The only 'counterthought' I would-offer, is the 'legacy-laser paradigm' of killing actual AC-power to the lasers (...vs just any output...) leaves you with, what would seem to me, to introduce a 'riskier condition' (long-term 'health'-wise...), for DPSS / diode lasers, if, ie they have been running 'hot' for hours and hours, and, then, 'some tool yanks your ilda-cable' - now you suddenly have no cooling fans, till you can manage to 'scramble' / reset... Yeah, it's 'far-fetched' - but so is 'some tool yanking your ilda-cable completely out of it's screw-lugs' during operation...

IMO, in a 'solid-state scenario', it is much-better to simply 'kill / disable output', while leaving power to fans, etc, still running - Really, the 'kill laser AC' was more-appropriate for legacy-ions, when, if an interlock 'tripped', the laser-itself, might still be 'beaming', (ie: if PSU-interlocks were not tied-in with projector interlocks, rarely, if-ever, done, in-practice 'in the field'...) With the 'solid-state paradigm', you certainly can safely kill all output - especially if you also tied-in a mechanical beam-shutter, ie: RGB's compact-series - while maintaining cooling...

I believe (IIRC) this is an 'acceptable / certifiable-scenario', FDA-wise, especially under the move towards the IEC-standards in this regard.. (see CDRH 'Laser Notice 50'...I'll have to re-read, later tonite to make sure I'm not 'smokin somethin'...

I'm not 'critisizing', just offering-up 'food for thought'...

peas..
j

[allthatwhichis]

Thanks Jon! That would be easy to impliment by changing my relay to cut the shutter signal, or swap out my 5 volt PSU to two 5 volt PSUs and cut the shutter PSU as the blue and shutter are running off one PSU now. Unfortunatly I sent in my product report last week and it shows the laser PSUs losing power if the interlock is broken... I am with you though; the interlock shouldn't be broken unless something really bad occurs, so I'll leave it this way for a bit.

[MechEng3]

It would seem a TIP 120 and a FET could be made to perform the same task on a smaller signal voltage scale..say 5vdc ..or multiple chips on a common board eliminating the balky relay....
My standard projector case is 9.5 X 12 X 13 inches and the PSU has an interlock to power up the whole unit.....that is what I am using...it has something like 3vdc on the signal and must see a return on the specified pin....

[allthatwhichis]

I am actualy using a npn TIP31 transistor; my relay is 12 volts and I have a nice lil 15 volt PSU for the whole loop. As far as I know it is not like Jon's picture. It is a lot like the one I have above with a couple of things moved in the loop. Adam only designed the push button via TIP31 addition to add to my current interlock loop. I also like to hear the sound of the coil on the relay to tell me it really worked.

It goes 15 volt PSU->pressure switch->pressure switch->DZ board interlock loop->ilda cable->DZ board->head phone jack-> 470 Ohm resistor->TIP31 base (has a tie to 15V neg with a 10k Ohm resistor inline)...TIP31 collector to 15 volt positive...TIP31 emitter->push button->relay pin 5 which switches from pin 1 to 3 when relay coil throws, pin 1 goes to green LED when coil is "open" and pin 3 goes to red LED and pin 7 to energize coil and fire PSUs up; pin 8 obviously goes to 15 volt neg. The other side of the push button is hooked to the pin 3, red LED, and pin 7 line.

[allthatwhichis]

Just got the whole circuit working in the Kvant, or should I say DIY 5000, serial # 2... Just barely fits and I need to drill a hole in the back to mount the push button. That's tomorrow's goal as the boss won't like me pulling a drill out at 2:30 in the morning.