First projector help.

[bhwollen]

I don't fully understand, but once I get them I should be able to see. The diode holder things he sells, do you know how high up the diode sits from the base? How thermally conductive are they?

[taggalucci]

Dave's diode mounts are very thermally conductive. Ideal in fact. As for the height... 20mm (or 24mm with the included baseplate attached). You can always use aluminium plates underneath or a bounce mirror to align the height with the other beams.

[bhwollen]

Bounce mirror? Whats that? And I don't have the machines to make an aluminum plate...

[LaNeK779]

Bounce mirror? Whats that?

this has already been asnwered for you here http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...790#post198790
make sure you read the replies thoroughly

[bhwollen]

Ahhh now I understand what you're saying... You use two mirrors to align the beam to the right height?

[LaNeK779]

i'll try to put this in a few words to give you the general idea

the reason that your dichroic filters are on mounts is that you need to align the laser beams so as to produce "white light"
there are two kinds of alignment, near field and far field

the near field alignment is when the dots of laser light on the dichro overlap perfectly. at this point you do not care about the dots at a distance being apart. to align near field you can either move the whole laser head and bolt it firmly down when you have found the perfect spot, or you can bolt the modules roughly there (within a few mm from the "sweetspot") and then use an extra set of adjustable mounts to steer the beam precisely where you want it (like norty 303 has shown you in his post)

then, you align for far field, to make the dots on a wall some meters away to overlap perfectly. to do this you use the adjustable dichro mounts.


for a better wording on all this, you can check out this very good guide here http://www.stanwax.plus.com/lw/rgb%20alignment%20lw.pdf
he doesn't tackle the "bounce mirror" topic, but gives a fine overall aligning tutorial



to me, this "bounce mirror" setup has a lot of advantages, as you can adjust for height differences between the laser modules, you can compensate building discrepancies, you can hit the galvo mirror head on without much fuss. in general, it makes it easier for me, as i am not really good in measuring and drilling holes

[taggalucci]

it makes it easier for me, as i am not really good in measuring and drilling holes

x 2

[bhwollen]

Got my flexmod today and I'm trying to set it up but I am totally lost. I connected a 12V wallwort to the V+ and G. Then I shorted the V+ and the M+ and the UI. I also bridged the 2 pads to disable the startup delay.

When it powers on I get a red led and no power on my DMM. What am I doing wrong?

[LaNeK779]

first you need to solder a wire from v+ to UI. many of us find it usefull to do this soldering on the bottom side of the board so that this cable is not in the way

then you solder three wires to v g and m

then you sort v and m and apply voltage (the + to v and m and the - to g)

the steps to follow are like statd in the manual http://hacylon.case.edu/laser/FlexMo...dP3_Manual.pdf

[bhwollen]

That is exactly what I did. Still red light always stays on.