E-Stop?

[flecom]

1. Yes, so you dont need it on your laser anymore (how will you turn the keyswitcht if your laser is trussed at 4 meters high. tip! dont use a estop with a key build in the knop. This will hurt when you must hit the button with key in place.
2. No, i use rj45 ( ethercon), i hate dsub. Ilda cable is enoug pain.
3. Xlr 3 or 5 is also a good option

I would suggest using an odd XLR connector like a 4 or 7 pin

3 pin is used commonly for audio and DMX
4 pin is used commonly for 12VDC in video applications
5 pin is the proper DMX connector
6 pin is used a lot for theater intercom systems

[dnar]

1. Yes, so you dont need it on your laser anymore (how will you turn the keyswitcht if your laser is trussed at 4 meters high. tip! dont use a estop with a key build in the knop. This will hurt when you must hit the button with key in place.
2. No, i use rj45 ( ethercon), i hate dsub. Ilda cable is enoug pain.
3. Xlr 3 or 5 is also a good option

Cool. I picked up an e-stop switch sans key. Twist to release.

I would suggest using an odd XLR connector like a 4 or 7 pin

3 pin is used commonly for audio and DMX
4 pin is used commonly for 12VDC in video applications
5 pin is the proper DMX connector
6 pin is used a lot for theater intercom systems

I have a stack of 4 pin XLR's left over from a theater intercom system I build a while back. Man, have you seen the prices of 5 and 6 pin XLR's lately? The whole reason for 5 or 6 pin is I would like the 2 x status LED's at my end of the cable... I might just use CAT5 and be done with it!

Thanks for the replies guys.

[flecom]

I have a stack of 4 pin XLR's left over from a theater intercom system I build a while back. Man, have you seen the prices of 5 and 6 pin XLR's lately? The whole reason for 5 or 6 pin is I would like the 2 x status LED's at my end of the cable... I might just use CAT5 and be done with it!

heh no, guess everything has gone up in price eh?

if you don't need the 4 pin XLR's I'll take em

I use them for my headphones (run all my headphones in a balanced configuration, so L+, L-. R+, R- and then the barrel is shield)

[dnar]

Hey Tony,

Looking at the draft manual, the diagram does not agree with the text "pin 4 is unused". Is the schematic below correct? Thanks for the heads up!!!



BTW, no response from Rob yet, maybe he is away?

Hi Wayne,

I use the same safety boards from Rob (Stanwax). Firstly in answer to your queries...

1. The stop switch does not require a key release. In the case of a failure condition, the circuit resets so you have to to push the run button to start again. As there is a key switch on the laser (and possibly the remote) this is enough to comply with the "lockability".
2. Is the D9 wiring on the Stanwax ILDA board a standard - No.
3. Can I use any other connector type? ie. XLR-5 or 6 - Yes.

I have recently torn my hair out trying to make sense of the documentation which accompanies the board. I bought 2 of these great boards from Rob, though each had the DB-9 wired differently, 1 in complete reverse to the other! So I have just yesterday rewired one of the boards to match the other and is a better match to the documentation.

Here's my external remote diagram...

Attachment 26243

I have detached wires to pins 2, 3 and 9 on Rob's board so that I can use these for other purposes, like shutter override.

[taggalucci]

Hey Tony,

Looking at the draft manual, the diagram does not agree with the text "pin 4 is unused". Is the schematic below correct? Thanks for the heads up!!!



BTW, no response from Rob yet, maybe he is away?

Hi Wayne,

The schematic is mostly correct. I don't bridge the 2 sets of 2 wires for the interlock loop. They are bridged on the board. I use the spare wires that would have been bridged for other signals. Pin 2 is spare, though terminated on the board with no traces to the rest of the circuit. In my 2nd board when reversed wired on arrival, pin 4 would have been spare. As I corrected this, it is pin 2 that is spare as diagrammed.

[taggalucci]

Hey Tony,

Looking at the draft manual, the diagram does not agree with the text "pin 4 is unused". Is the schematic below correct? Thanks for the heads up!!!



BTW, no response from Rob yet, maybe he is away?

Hi Wayne,

The schematic is mostly correct. I don't bridge the 2 sets of 2 wires for the interlock loop. They are bridged on the board. I use the spare wires that would have been bridged for other signals. Pin 2 is spare, though terminated on the board with no traces to the rest of the circuit. In my 2nd board when reversed wired on arrival, pin 4 would have been spare. As I corrected this, it is pin 2 that is spare as diagrammed.

[dnar]

Hi Wayne,

The schematic is mostly correct. I don't bridge the 2 sets of 2 wires for the interlock loop. They are bridged on the board. I use the spare wires that would have been bridged for other signals. Pin 2 is spare, though terminated on the board with no traces to the rest of the circuit. In my 2nd board when reversed wired on arrival, pin 4 would have been spare. As I corrected this, it is pin 2 that is spare as diagrammed.

Thanks.

Thanks.

[LaNeK779]

generally speaking, is it a good idea to have a foot switch, pedal or whatever instead of a hand operated switch?

no specific reason for asking, it just crossed my mind

[taggalucci]

generally speaking, is it a good idea to have a foot switch, pedal or whatever instead of a hand operated switch?

Yes, most suitable for those unfortunately sans hands, conversely not so good for those without legs

[dnar]

In that case, a big push button you can hit with your head will cover all disability scenarios.