E-Stop?

[taggalucci]

In that case, a big push button you can hit with your head will cover all disability scenarios.

Brilliant, giving head to the big red button - what an image!

[buffo]

Sort of like "Head-on! Apply directly to the forehead!" Right?

(For those of you who have never seen this highly annoying ad, consider yourself lucky. But if you want to torture yourself, here's the link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_SwD7RveNE )

Adam

PS: And yes, I know the product is nothing but homeopathic bullshit...

[dnar]

I have recently torn my hair out trying to make sense of the documentation which accompanies the board. I bought 2 of these great boards from Rob, though each had the DB-9 wired differently, 1 in complete reverse to the other! So I have just yesterday rewired one of the boards to match the other and is a better match to the documentation.

Here's my external remote diagram...

Attachment 26243

I have detached wires to pins 2, 3 and 9 on Rob's board so that I can use these for other purposes, like shutter override.

Now it is my turn to pull hair.

I wired as per the manual and your diagram. My remote LED is green, start does not function.

I reversed the D9 wiring as you did, now I get a Red LED, it flashes when I press start and 8 secs later the relay closes. Cool. But.... The e-stop is non-functional.

I get the feeling my board is old old (SN 1001) and wired differently again. Were is Rob?

[dnar]

Finally sorted...

All up, the following were incorrect:

1. D9 pinouts all reversed (same issue Tony had).
2. Pins 3 & 9 are not connected (unlike the diagram in the manual).
3. The green half of the bi-coloured LED was damaged (due t reverse wiring?) and the external LED is affected as they are in parallel. I pulled the LED off the board as I don't need it.

All working now!!!

[taggalucci]

Good to hear Wayne!

[dnar]

Good to hear Wayne!

My theory is this.

The PCB was designed for a male D9. The diagram in the manual is for the female lead attached to the e-stop.

By fitting a female D9 to the PCB, the pinouts are all reversed...

If I swapped the female for a male, the pinouts would be correct.

[taggalucci]

My theory is this.

The PCB was designed for a male D9. The diagram in the manual is for the female lead attached to the e-stop.

By fitting a female D9 to the PCB, the pinouts are all reversed...

If I swapped the female for a male, the pinouts would be correct.

On the original board I purchased, the female DE-9 is mounted to the top side of the board...



...meaning the pinouts were correct. It seems that the ribbon cable-connected DE-9s on the newer boards are soldered in reverse.

Also something else I noticed...



The ILDA breakout on my 1st set from Rob has the wider sides of the DB-25s closest together (right). The 2nd set is the complete opposite (left). As I'm currently drawing up some DXF files for some panels to be machine cut, I'm glad I noticed!

[dnar]

Ah, so the D9 has been fitted to the other side thus reversing the pinouts.

Well, the shutter output on my board appears to be damaged. Lucky I used an opto-isolator on my driver, it works a treat off the Emission LED output!

[taggalucci]

I haven't used the shutter output yet, but I did meter about 15v from the shutter pins (of my 2nd board) prior to the board entering the "emitting" state. I thought this was a bit odd at the time, given that the shutter shouldn't be energised to lift the flag before then.

Once I start toying around with the shutters I have, I'll look at this then. Hopefully there's an explanation and the shutter output is OK (on both boards).

[dnar]

I haven't used the shutter output yet, but I did meter about 15v from the shutter pins (of my 2nd board) prior to the board entering the "emitting" state. I thought this was a bit odd at the time, given that the shutter shouldn't be energised to lift the flag before then.

Once I start toying around with the shutters I have, I'll look at this then. Hopefully there's an explanation and the shutter output is OK (on both boards).

Yeah, mine measured 15V and slowly falling. If yours is the same, just use the emission LED output connector adjacent to the relay! Essentially the same signal, just intended to drive an LED.