Stanwax ILDA board not functioning

[ireedz]

Yes, that is exactly true. That is from Rob directly.

[laser_freak]

Ok, I connected my RIYA dac as per taggalucci's suggestion, but it didn't change anything. Does anyone have a list of all the conditions that need to be met?
So far I have:
Keyswitch interlock - yes
Start button - overridden with solder jumpers and verified with multimeter
ILDA input - yes

[laser_freak]

It works! I was using a normally open button as the remote emergency stop. I switched to a normally closed button, and it works!

[laser_freak]

For future reference here is the reply I got from Rob:

First of all the jumpers you have joined do not overide the interlock they only overide the start button.
The Bi-colour LED will turn green only when the interlocks are good, the interlock is one continuous loop that starts from +12V line (internal to the board) and goes through a low value resistor (so in case of a dead short things wont go on fire!) then it loops through ILDA 4 & 17 (ilda interlock - so it wont work without a DAC attached) then it goes through the keyswitch contacts, to the 9 pin sub d for the remote interlock. Pins 6 or 7 and 2 or 3 (6 & 7 are shorted on the PCB as are 2 & 3 so it does not matter which you use) therefore must be joined - this is traditionally used as e-stop contacts. As soon as this loop is complete the LED will come on green. Until the loop is complete the chip is held in a hard reset state so that the board is in a safe condition. Therefore if any of the loop breaks then the chip is reset and the laser becomes 'safe' and the LED will go out. If its out there is no power or a break in the interlock loop.
Once the loop is complete and the bi-colour LED is lit green that tells you that all interlocks are 'good' and the laser is ready to be started.
If you have the start button jumpers shorted then the bicolour led will begin flashing red to green for the alloted 8 (or so) seconds. At the end of the delay the led will stay red and the relay will energise as well as the output to the emission LED being turned on.

[ireedz]

Glad to hear it!

[stanwax]

Hi Guys
Firstly Im glad we got this sorted and thanks to the guys who helped out. If ever any doubt on the products please email and I will do everything I can to help.
I know some of the documentation is lacking but I am working to correct this - so please email with questions. I also have some new electronic goodies on the way including Stanwax Laser DS3 - solid state axis switch which is kitted and ready to assemble as of today. Pics and full announcment will follow

Rob

[LaNeK779]

let the news out rob, i have put my projects on hold just to wait for this announcement!!!

[drm916]

Ignore the color correction board that's slightly off frame to the right. I disconnected to see if it was the problem (it's not).
I notice on the board it has differential power inputs, but in the PDF documentation it illustrates you only need to connect + and ground. Maybe I need differential voltage input?
Attachment 27258 Attachment 27259

Is that the panel mount or internal board version? I think its the internal board.. right?

I looked on his website and he has both listed.

[ireedz]

Is that the panel mount or internal board version? I think its the internal board.. right?

I looked on his website and he has both listed.

That looks to be the panel mount board. That is what my panel mounts look like.

[stanwax]

in those pix yes its the internal board (you can easily tell as the DB25 is not fitted - see the unsoldered holes) the natural way to use the board is panel mount - thats how it was designed and the internal board is a bit of a compromise to be honest.
But either will work

Rob