Mitsubishi ML520G71...Red Holy Grail or Flashlight Fail ??

[kiyoukan]

well i have not yet made it made a 3d model and thought about milling it out but dont have the time yet.
Also up date on the correction optics in the 635nm GB thread.

[planters]

A few thoughts on the design.

I think a centering diode holder will become the standard for all future builds for all wavelengths. Any short FL lens is so demanding on centration and the lens holder/insert has to have SOME clearance to allow the lens to be installed and the cylinder to be threaded. Also, even if you fit the diode into the block with "zero" clearance that is just an approximation, there is going to be some lateral tolerance.

The diode probably should be the component moved because rotational forces during focusing might cross to the alignment system and even torque the delicate set screws, deforming them.

bhwollen, I like your hold down slots. The side opening will allow the block to be removed without fully removing the tiny screws. A shallow, but wide relief slot from front to back on the bottom surface will prevent rocking if you choose to tighten down on only two screws for convenience.

I do not think there will be any increase in power downrange, but I am pretty sure there will be a significant improvement in beam quality. Many of these replicated lenses are 1/100 lamda. They are not the problem.

I have all the other components for an 8 diode build at 445 and am waiting for Dave or Solarfire or anyone with the time and skill to supply the diode holders.

[CDBEAM]

Yeah same... It was very repetitive though.


CDBEAM, what do you think of this diode holder I made in some 3D software. All credit goes to you. Of course there will be the lens holder, faceplate, and modified aixiz.

Also, what did you use for the ID of the bore for the lens holder and the OD lens holder?

Attachment 30760

Nice 3D rendering BHW...The bore ID is 25.4mm and the holder OD 23.01mm or a stock rod of 29/32"....all you need is some gap for the adjustment. The debate as to what to move....and what to keep stationary is very interesting....I have been thinking about this !!!
There are arguments....both ways !!! Dunno !! The spring tension is such that the rotational forces do not really mess with the X-Y
alignment. I WOULD prefer 100 TPI vs. the 4-40 thread....that is a possible refinement ?? Fun stuff !!! BEAM

[bhwollen]

Thank you for the dimensions CDBEAM! I have to hold off the machining for a few days till I get some more material. Project for the next 3 days, learn Mastercam X6! Fun stuff!!!

On a separate note, when machining acrylic, I assume you buy it with the stock depth And then just machine the other two sides to size, that way, not messing up the clear front?

[LaNeK779]

why don't you have a look at dave's adjustable diode mount?

it is a much simpler design. and it works!

[kiyoukan]

well to a point it works yes there is no doubt about that.
However working well is another question.
If someone asked me what would be easier to do, loosen a diode in a pocket and adjust it around and have to tighten it and hope it does not shift OR adjust these 2 screws till its perfect.
but for the 2mm lenses cd beam mount might do better, wel will know when gets his lenses from dave and he can tell us how much more power he can get by having it perfectly center as well as beam specs.

[dave]

It does work, and once the technique is mastered, its pretty easy.

Just trying to work it out, whether to fire off a similar design, or something that will be a bit more expensive and have some sort of x/y adjustment

Thoughts?

why don't you have a look at dave's adjustable diode mount?
it is a much simpler design. and it works!

[kiyoukan]

well once cd beam can get his setup i will have some along with more designs.
I have a possible merger design between daves and cd beams setups that could prove very nice and still low cost retail under 25$.
Only if the tests come back positive.
If not then no point in changing what works.

[kiyoukan]

Also on a note maybe this might have to get its own thread seeing how big this one is,
Why are some people using brass as heatsinks?
I was told it was due to they are more dense so they have more mass to store heat even tho they are slower at thermal transfer.
But why would you need the diode heatsink to have more mass when it is bolted to a giant baseplate with more than enough mass?
Isnt the name of the game thermal transfer?
Aluminum (6061) 171 W/m-K
Aluminum (6063) 193 W/m-K
Brass (70Cu-30Zn) 115 W/m-K
Copper 398 W/m-K
So if i had a pointer i might want brass due to limited amount of mass but for a projector you would want 6061 vs brass for faster transfer of heat into base plate and or into a TEC right?

[steve-o]

Copper has my vote but I heard it's hard to work with (?) .. (and expensive)