Installing new flexmod p3...help plz

[swamidog]

to short the modulation input on the flexmod p3, wire the M+ (modulation) connection to the G (Ground) connection next to it.

12mA is good. now turn the bias current slowly up. at some point (probably between 150-200mA) the dim glow from the 445 diode will turn into a laser beam. turn the bias current back down so it's just below the point where the diode goes from dim light to laser. that's the laser threshold.

at this point, unshort the modulation input (M+ and G) and wire them to your DAC.

Short the modulation input what is that? I mean if i think what it means, its cutting the wires a bit so its not a long way from the ilda board to the flexmod?
Edit: by the way it doesnt say how much mA i should set. It can start with 50mA to 150mA. I screwed it down so that the dot is as good as invisible. It now reads 12,85mA wich is not 100% steady.

[borgqueenx]

Well for some reason my multimeter makes bleeps now and says UL now or something when reading. So i cant measure anymore but:
Anyways i made it so that a real bright small dot(the laserbeam) almost appears.(if screwed just a tiny bit up more).
This is okay? Now imput the 5v modulation?

[swamidog]

yes. that sounds good.

Well for some reason my multimeter makes bleeps now and says UL now or something when reading. So i cant measure anymore but:
Anyways i made it so that a real bright small dot(the laserbeam) almost appears.(if screwed just a tiny bit up more).
This is okay? Now imput the 5v modulation?

[borgqueenx]

Okay, now some blanking lines disappeared it seems...
Watch a new vid i quickly made, and compare with the other video in post1.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9osMdrg4bnE

EDIT: what to try next? the middle screw? has it some use after all?
Or maybe a wire plugged in wrong?(wich i dont think because it lases?)

ive looked it over but have no idea why the blanking lines wont disappear.

[drlava]

Check in riya settings your laser DAC settings that they are still set to analog RGB and the way you want.

You can also use the TestRIYA program to manually use the slider to ramp from 0V output to 5V output on the DAC RGB lines.

[borgqueenx]

Check in riya settings your laser DAC settings that they are still set to analog RGB and the way you want.

You can also use the TestRIYA program to manually use the slider to ramp from 0V output to 5V output on the DAC RGB lines.

then still, the build in show never had blanking lines showed(without a ilda cable attached it plays the build in show).

EDIT: just tried to do that andrew, no luck. i get a half line and the rest blanking crazy to the other part, and if i click terminate i see a circle moving, without blanking between them. but its not a complete finished circle like it was before with the old flexmod.

Edit2: yippie no more blanking lines after removing and reconnecting everything...no idea what fixed it though
But...a new problem arised. When giving 5v with the riya test app it goes full power but then dies quickly, in about 20 secs from full power to zero.
How should i proceed? Last time i had this problem it was the heat of the heat sink...wich became to hot because over voltage. But now its not even warm...

Thanks!

EDIT3: problem of rapidly dieing after full power on in riya settings still exists.
But i found the reason why it worked after the second install. One terminal block had a wire not installed properly. touching it and moving it a bit made contact and then not contact ect. I made sure everything was alot tighter and now the blue works 100%.
I got a great looking 445nm now. wonderful beam size!

[borgqueenx]

Someone? How can i prevent the 445nm from dieing quickly after full power 5v?

[norty303]

Ok...

1. Unplug the diode.

2. Connect your multimeter on amps mode to the output wires.

3. Give power to the FM3.

4. Apply 5V to the modulation lines.

5. Tell us what you get on the multimeter.



My suspicion is that after all this fiddling, you've got it set to give a really high current to the diode, and it's shutting down before it can damage itself. It is so high that it doesn't get a chance to warm up the mount even, so it doesn't feel like it's due to heat.


Somebody linked to the manual earlier in the thread. I would recommend simply following the setup instructions from there, in the order it tells you to do them. It's not particularly complex, and it will avoid you breaking something (if you haven't already). In short, instead of spending time posting further in this thread - RTFM

[borgqueenx]

i tried that just now.
First try my multimeter began bleeping and said UL or something.
Then after retrying the flexmod gave a error led. i replugged the diode after power off, did power on again and the error led is gladly off again.

secondly i readed that manual, but i first came across a road block because the modulation lines werent connected properly. but i understand why you dont want to read every post in this topic

[norty303]

If you don't have a power meter, you will need to get this working to know how much power you are supplying to the diode.

You can set it up 2 ways:

1. Measure the laser diode output using a LPM, and set it to what you want/know the diode can take.
2. Do what I detailed above (as per the instruction manual)

If you don't do it either way, you have no idea at all how much power you are putting through the diode.

It sounds like you have something connected incorrectly. Have you checked to make sure you have the MM connected to the correct polarity wires on the FM3?