Someone needs a whoopin...
Somewhere, someone is home tonight, and should be glad they are not within troutslapping range.
Because I'd load the salmon with lead shot.
That someone:
Decided that a YAG marker was best served by connecting the Di-Ionized water loop directly to the shop cooling water.
Whomever you are, please note in the future that:
You should not place brass valves and iron fittings in the DI-loop.
Dried antibacterial compound and anti-corrosion compounds have no place in around a 4 kilowatt arc lamp. I managed to save the reflector halves after some real careful scrubbing and polishing, but some of the gold is scuffed and no longer mirror like. IT was DI water for a reason. I somehow can tell your shop used the green stuff in the main loop and not the pink stuff.
Please do not hammer the guide pins for the gold reflector into the lamp housing. If it does not slide, something is not angled right. You had the top and bottom gold reflector halves inverted.Please also do not leave out every other screw, it makes it hard to seal the o-rings. The pins are mushroomed and I dont think I can get them out.
Please, next time, when you clean the quartz flow tubes, dont use AJAX, the coatings are not meant to be scruffy and translucent.
I'm sure you realized your mistake with the shop water at this point? What did you get? One more marking run?
I boiled the flow tubes in hydrogen peroxide to get the scum off, this let me test the lamp psu long enough to see if the PSU worked.
Also, you do not have to glue the YAG rod into the holders, the teflon blocks work just fine to stop leaks.
Why were three resistors were burned within 1/2 inch of the current sensor on the X galvo amp? Is that where you stuck the screwdriver or wire with 110 to give her the coup-de-grace?
No way that was a natural failure.
Some how you did not explode the second lamp.
However, I picked pieces of lamp one out of the cooling hose.
Thank you , for ordering a undersized 220V single phase psu, and just adding a potentiometer to the front panel for lamp current. Putting it next to the existing 10 turn pot was cool.
Since the PSU is way undersized, I now have a really nice new PSU. In the future, please note you had a 26 to 35 amp lamp, and a 22 max amp PSU.
Don't major in math, when you apply for retraining, it does not suit you. You did do a nice job of taping off the other phase lines.
Using the old Radio Shack serial cable to interface with the lamp psu was a nice touch. However, in the future, you should pitty the poor shutter, or at least wire the cable so the laser does not start right at machine startup. The lamp relay was right next to the relay you hitchhiked off of. The mechanical shutter will recover, but he will have trouble getting dates with that ugly, scarred, face.
I'll salvage the laser head, but please stick to sweeping the shop or whatever else you really do in the future....
You did manage to keep the cavity mirrors clean, I'm proud of you for that.
Was it really worth it to either not have to replace a water to water heat exchanger, or a DI-Polisher cartridge at 99$ a unit?
Scratch one 50,000$ marking machine.
Your boss scrapped the laser. I got it for parts at 163$ plus tax.
When he/she scrapped the unit, did he scrap you?
I hope you found a new position some place that could use your seriously fantastic technician skills.
Steve
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Originally Posted by dnar
