Hi Simon,
Here's my advice in the context of your points above.
1 - yes
2 - yes
3 - use a diode mount from Dave at lasershowparts.com (user "dave" here on PL). Get an O-Like 445nm, or 405-G-2 lens from laser66 with a lens barrel from dave - either which will fit Dave's mount. These are glass and provide good beam specs for our needs. Use a laserbug from 300EVIL or get a suitable diode plug to save soldering directly to the diode pins.
4 - yes, FlexMod P3 or other suitable driver (search here for 445 + driver). No need for resistors if only one diode is used. A 6-24v DC switch mode power supply (SMPS) is best and dependent on your chosen driver. Yes, everything should be mounted properly.
5 - Diode mount should be attached to a good baseplate. This may be enough to keep diode temperature/output power stable, or use a Peltier TEC with a thermistor and simple driver to keep the baseplate or diode mount cool (search here for TEC driver by weartronics).
6 - Use anamorphic prisms which can also be bought from dave. It's either narrow and divergent or wide and less divergent, the scanners will benefit from a narrow beam regardless of divergence. The key is to get a far-field beam size and ooverall beam divergence that matches your green and still fits on your scanners. Getting a near-field beam size under 4mm can be tricky unless you use a 2:1 reverse telescope to halve the beam width which doubles the divergence. As the divergence may be lower than your green, this might be exactly what you want to do. I haven't bothered with this. The beam starts fatter, but after a short distance looks the same width. Look at the 2nd link below for precise beam specs with the lenses and prisms I've proposed.
7 - yes. Though reading and following the driver's instructions should prevent any over-current mishaps.
My steps are:
Wire up laserbug or diode plug and driver board according to instructions. Test bias (modulation = 0v) and full-power (mod = 5v) currents according to instructions, though set full-power to less than half what you plan to use, say 300 to 400 mA.
Keep the diode static free. If you receive it soldered across the anode and cathode and desolder it, use a jumper to keep them bridged prior to installation.
Prepare diode mount for diode, lining the diode seat with a very little heat transfer compound.
Ready the diode, remove solder etc and clean pins keeping them straight and as long as possible (under ESD-preventative conditions).
Install diode in mount choosing rough orientation based on spare pin (North or East for example). Depends on mounting orientation of prisms relative to diode mount.
Screw back plate in almost all way, leaving a little slack to allow some rotation of the diode with little force.
Attach per-wired laserbug or diode plug to diode.
Screw in lens part way (build lens into barrel if going the 405-G-2 route).
Apply power to the driver and increase mod signal to 2v, you should see the diode come to life. Increase to 5v mod.
Adjust the focus of the lens until the diode produces a 1 meter stripe on the wall.
Turn the diode until it is exactly aligned with the diode block according to the orientation you need for the prisms.
Focus the lens until the far-field beam is as small a line as possible.
Mount your prisms according to zoof's template
Orient the prisms
Put the whole lot in a housing
bingo, job done!
Read this...
http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...ion-correction
Check out Dnar's picture
here where he has done exactly what you want to do. The rest of that thread shows the prisms in use.