Laser Coolant

[premierlaser]

Hey Guys!
I have a show coming up at a water park and they don't have a hose connection! Imagine that...all they have is fire hoses and large format hoses like that. My question is if i use chlorinated water from a pool or water from a salt water pool would it damage the tube. Im running a coherent purlight, nd i would obvesaly flush out the tube with fresh water after. The total run time would be around 2-3 hours.

Thanks!

-Adam

[mixedgas]

You need to flow it really, really fast, if the water gets stagnent and microboils, the saline will leach out and clog things. Then it needs a good flush on the way home.

The idea of connecting something powered by 220/3 to a pool with humans in it frightens me. Yes, I know its probably perfectly safe, but... I know the the cold plate and case is well grounded, but one loose ground connection and you could have more then a few mA of leakage current flowing.

I'm not so worried about the brass in the magnet, but more worried about the nickle plated pass bank, with its thin layer of nickle plate over copper.
Also filtering it so as to not crud up the flow switch.

You need to find out WHAT is in the water.

One 55 gallon drum of cold water is 40-50 minutes til a overtemp on a Lexel 95. Perhaps transfer some water to some cheap plastic 55 gallon drums.

Find a radiator for a old V8 car and submerge it in the OTHER unoccupied pool as a water to water heat exchanger. That has been done before in lakes.


Knowing what else you have, Doing this on a 164/168 would be dumb if its saline. The wet anode would start to corrode immediately in chlorine or saline.
In fact it most likely would not ignite in Saline from the leakage current on the anode.

The Coherent is a bit more tolerant.

McMaster Carr probably has a hose adapter for large hose to water tap sized.

BE CAREFUL.

Steve

[dsli_jon]

Adam -

All due-respect to the P'fesser, (...Steve, he's got a Star II C..) I'd stay away from chlorine - especially salt water, omg, no!! (imo..) and just build yerself one of these pups:



...*pennies* compared to a new tube, or passbank, and you can fit it-all into a nice, rolling 'flat-cart' or 'roadcase-style-it'..

...you can use a moderate-pressure 'PD-1' pump, from a Laserscope, or, equiv. and - especially with your build-skills have something like this rigged, inside of a day, if ya hoof it.. As long as you can keep the 'ambient' relatively-cool (26˚ C or below) either via 'good airflow' (..which should be easy, outdoors, unless it's *totally* sweltering out..) this rig should run yer C all nite.. Worst-case, like Steve said, you can use a 'larger res. tank', and/or submerge it in another pool, as a supplemental 'water-water'...

..I'm pretty-sure your C will NOT 'love you long time' if you feed it salt water... Personally, I'd invest the little bit o' time / bux on a 'HEx'..

Dos centavitos..
cheers..
j

Oh, Yes - PS - An adapter, with pressure-reducer / ball-valve, down to 3/4", for adapting from Fire-Connex, is about $130. worth of brass-fittings and a trip to a good plumbing-supply house.. we've used those, many a-time.. In fact, ask them if the 'local FD' can rent / loan you one of thier 2" > 3/4" rigs.. most will have them, readily avail. for, ie: washing-down boots / jackets, etc - ya know, where they don't wanna use a million-psi water-stream to hose something down..

[Photonbeam]

Adam - PM if you need this. 3" fire hose to two garden hose.

[nuphotonix]

OOoooooo i want one!!!

Adam - PM if you need this. 3" fire hose to two garden hose.