Chinese Mirror and 6W

[norty303]

I agree, just get on and do it. I let the 5 min epoxy get to the point of nearly going off and then its much quicker until it holds itself in position, whilst still being able to move it if needed.

[swamidog]

i have a perpetual source of "needle-tip wooden sticks".. let me know if you need a couple.

..Acetone-cleaned fingertips (..finger-oils are a definite no-no.), a brief-kiss from a soldering-iron tip to loosen the old mirr, and a good sharp exacto-blade (..for removing all excess epoxy from the shaft-slot...) will get you ready, and a left-over wooden-stick from one of those 'long-reach' cotton-swabs - whittled to a razor needle-point, for gently-depositing *just* the right amount of epoxy in the shaft, to 'base-set' the mir, then later, deftfully 'drawing it', on-sides of the shaft / on the rear, to 'lock' it in, is pretty-much all it 'takes'...

Really, the 'hero' is that little 'needle-tip wooden stick', for applying the epoxy in the ever-so conservative, yet ample, way.. Imagine, ya know, for-example, yer 'gluing-up someones cornea after performing a nice radial-K'.. Careful, but 'determinate' werk.. (..Mozart, optional..)

Don't fear the reaper, just go for it..
j

[mixedgas]

For scanner mirrors I just use a X-Z positioning stage and get a really strong epoxy to set over night. I use the mark one eyeball for mirror positioning and "JUST GET IT OVER WITH", playing say Blue Danube in the background. Jon's technique is pretty much on the money, except I don't like what a iron can to to bearing lube on cheapies. I have No problem doing that on Cambs or GSI products with over-sized bearings. I've done it by hand as much as I've done it with jigs, and usually do a better job by hand in a hurray.

I do take care to get equal amounts of epoxy around. When it shrinks, then it shrinks evenly, pulling on both sides of the mirror equally.

On G120s where I have them post mounted, I just don't care. Centered and +/- 1.5 degrees of parallel is good enough. I'll clean up any slight angle errors with the post feet and the RA90 mounts rotation. When its going in a scanner block, it takes more care.

Gotta have a small stick for the epoxy. Cheap, clear, Dime Store, 5 minute epoxy does not do well with the torque stress. Superglue is a mark one, mod zero waste of time.
Not to mention its fumes find their way to the bearings and any fingerprints.

Steve

[mccarrot]

Learned allot today

Swapping galvo mirrors PL style

First get:

1. Yoga / Scanner-mirror Mounting Classes from dr Jon
2. spines from swamidog
3. X-Z positioning stage from steve
4. some gravity from Tagalucci

[taggalucci]

Learned allot today

Swapping galvo mirrors PL style

First get:

1. Yoga / Scanner-mirror Mounting Classes from dr Jon
2. spines from swamidog
3. X-Z positioning stage from steve
4. some gravity from Tagalucci

I can't wait to see the tutorial video!

[dsli_jon]

First get:

1. ..
...4. some gravity from Tagalucci

..you forgot the tequila...

RE: the 'gravity' method, interesting, but I'll simply add that, sometimes, even with good, 'even-spread', glue-up, as the epoxy is setting, it can 'walk' to one-side or another.. so, I've found it helpful to keep a watchful-eye on your 'XYZ-centering', and just give the edge / back a bit of a 'finger-grooming', back 'in-position'...

..But, usually, like Norty said, once it gets 'thick'd', it will pretty-well stay put.. however, 'set it and forget it', unless you're using a jig / positioner, like the P'fesser can be a bit 'risky'... nothing like nailing your initial-set, then walking away to take a call / grab some Oreos n milk, etc - only to come back and find /
...therefore, re-mirrorizing galvos with tequila is only recommended for seasoned gluer-uppers...

Ommm...
j