Laser Projector (Red, Green, Purple) "Laser 3D Party Light" from Spencer's

[AnthonyGarcia]

This may be better to post into the "Help" area of the forum. Plenty of experts here that could help. I just caution that the more complex your logo is (even if you think its pretty basic), the more difficult it will be to recreate with a laser.

[hakzaw1]

if you are interested alow me to try and get you a 'forum' price
it may only be free ship but worth trying--hak

((((((((((((((((((

http://www.aixiz.com/store/product_i...roducts_id/451


much has changed since 2012

this one has 450 blue and NOT 405 purple so much brighter & better white

ignore 'full color' on the box as of course these are only TTL and thus 7 color

on my 'sample' occasionally the green would stop
also i had a hard time working with the SD card
so neither aixiz nor i can be of much help making the SD card work--

but there are images on the included card as well as the soft to convert JPEG to the card

[tribble]

Im looking to PAY someone "paypal" to HELP ME!! ive got a laser similer to the spencers laser "china version" im looking for someone to give me step by step directions on how to make custom logos i cant seem to figure it outIF YOU CAN HELP ME CONTACT ME at 417 597 8256 or djwillwtpb@gmail.com . Im Pretty new to all this laser stuff but really need to start learning it thank you!!

I'm pretty sure the information you need is already in this thread. I know it's long, but skim through it. The short answer is, draw your logo in B&W, save as a bitmap, use BMP2ILD to generate an ilda file, then open the ilda file in laserboy to convert it to something the spencer projector will load. While in laserboy, you can touch up the points and replicate the frame a bunch of times so the showcard draws the logo for a few seconds or minutes instead of flashing it up as it reloads the frame from the card over and over again. I use somewhere between 500 and 1000 frames depending on the scan speed I want to use and how much room is left on my SD card.

The key sequence you will need to press to get an ilda frame to prepare to save in the correct format from laserboy is:

6vOqT^O

capitalization matters. Then save, copy to your showcard, modify the control file on the card (it's a text file) to include your file, and pop the card back in the projector and turn it on. If everything went well, you should see your logo. If something didn't go well, probably you missed a step in the magic incantation.



Good luck!

Tribble

[hakzaw1]

@dogP

"I've seen a few 515nm lasers for a little bit cheaper, but all in modules with drivers. The drivers are completely useless for us, since we need the TTL blanking (I want to get rid of the DPSS mostly because it doesn't turn on/off as nicely as a direct diode... on/off would be horrible by driving a driver). I don't care too much about whether it's 515nm or 520nm, though the 515nm seem to be lower power, and cheaper. I was tempted to drop a bid on this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/161106335905 , but it claims to be only 5mW. I don't know if that means the diode is actually only 5mW, or if the driver is limiting it to 5mW... but since they also sell a 15mW ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/161105895757 ), I'm thinking it's actually a weaker diode. I know Aixiz also sells this one: http://www.aixiz.com/store/product_i...roducts_id/446 , which they say is the 30mW OSRAM diode that most people sell. I may ask both of them if they sell it without the driver... though I know at least the OSRAM is gonna take some work to make it work with this driver circuit, since it requires a pretty high voltage.""


at least for now the only AixiZ DD green is the Osram already in a standard AixiZ module and the driver is embedded- so that is it for now-



I dont think it would be easy to remove the diode from the aixiz module nor would that make any sense considering the cost--

I tested a few all made around 30mW- but the 'heatsink' AixiZ includes is too small-no fins- and very little mass-- to run constant I , personally, would go with a better HS--

[hakzaw1]

OP--"Hey,

First time poster, but long time dreamer of owning an RGB laser projector. Anyway, while I was at the mall the other day I dropped into Spencer's, and a laser projector making arbitrary images caught my eye (much cooler than the normal laser kaleidoscopes that they usually have). I wasn't sure that it was worth the $200 price tag, so I went home and researched it. I ended up finding out that it was actually marked down to $169, and that there really aren't MANY full color laser pro..."

there really aren't many full color laser projectors cheaper than that."[/B]


correction there are NONE at these prices that are FULL COLOR- neeed to add another hundred or two to get analog- apparently in china TTL and analog modulation are the 'same'..at least in advertizing...

[james]

This thread and some others connected to it go back a long time.

The short story is that if you get one of these deals with an SD card reader, you should take a look at LaserBoy for preparing your own ILDA files for display.

There are some caveats with the very limited and wrong way they read ILDA data and there are some steps that can be taken to try to correct for this as much as possible.

At one point, I added a frame set effect to LB, in an attempt to make a one-pass-though filter to try to "fix" the issues for files to be put onto the SD card.

I never got any feedback on whether or not that was effective.

I do not own one of these projectors. So I cannot directly test my code with it.

I took a best guess based on a lot of work that Mike Weber did.

I also made a special alternate version of the standard 63 color palette to only include the TTL combinations of RGB. So one can do a best match to that palette and then back to the real 63 color one and get the most predictable color output.

James.

[czyzczyz]

A couple of questions. I've read the whole thread, but am not sure this has been answered (I don't think so, but may have overlooked - it sounded like DogP was working on hooking up a DAC):

Has anyone bypassed the SD card and managed to control the projector from a computer?

And as a separate question --Has anyone purchased a LaserBoy correction amp kit from Innovision? It seems like this paired with a usb 8-channel sound device would possibly be a way to control this projector from a computer rather than from the SD card. The link to the image of the kit on Innovision's page is dead, which doesn't inspire confidence:
http://innolasers.com/ebay/laser_dio...ection_Amp.php

I'm curious how difficult it might be to not use the SD card reader and instead control the projector from a computer in real time.

[mixedgas]

Honestly, the Spencers laser diode drivers will need to be replaced before you can hook this projector to a computer. They use a weird, sensitive, inverted, CMOS level shifted signal with negative 1.3/3.3V logic that is very hard to drive. The drivers pick up a ground loop when you try to drive them externally. I spent an evening trying to make a correct level shifter, much to my dismay. Its just not worth trying. The galvos are easy enough to drive from a +/- 5 VOLT, single ended signal.
.
Sound Card dacs are a huge waste of time. For the amount of TIME you will put into getting one running and editing wav files, you could go out and earn enough money to get a RIYA and Spaghetti Software... Quite honestly, most of us on the forum are tired of supporting people who try to build them and then have severe issues. About 50% of those who attempt this technique, have severe technical issues.
.
If you already own one of these, its best to get either LasershowGen Software and use the SD card, or wait till you can afford Spaghetti or LSX or Quickshow or a Riya, or something better.
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This works well for use with the existing SD card:
http://bitlasers.com/opencart/index....&product_id=82
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Don't buy Ishow, you'll cry into your beer... There are plenty of reviews on here why...

Steve

[czyzczyz]

Thanks for the info. I suppose I could start by just using the SD card, and then move on to a Riya Lite or similar when enough time has passed that I've forgotten the cost of the laser projector itself and have put away a bit of savings, provided the projector works that long.

It's not that this stuff is expensive really – it must seem absolutely ridiculous to those of you who take this hobby seriously and have been around a while that anyone would even have to think twice about spending around $400 to be able to do actual RGB laser projection. It's just that my experimenting-with-fun-stuff budget is a little low at the moment. Filmmaking and constantly modding one's 3D printer have a way of pushing other things aside.

On a different note -- a search on "negative 1.3/3.3V logic" turned up this link -- I wonder if there's any relation:
http://www.jos.ac.cn/bdtxben/ch/read...le_no=08123006

H They use a weird, sensitive, inverted, CMOS level shifted signal with negative 1.3/3.3V logic that is very hard to drive.

[Bradfo69]

$400 is merely what I've paid in shipping for some items! 'Tis NOT an inexpensive endeavor!