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Thread: 1.3w 650nm cni maybe rubbish?

  1. #11
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    i once had four of those 1watt 655nm cni modules each produced a beam of 8mm by 5mm @ about 2mR

    so great for a torch but no good for scanning
    Eat Sleep Lase Repeat


    Aluminium Optic Mounts

    http://www.laser-man.co.uk/opticmounts/

  2. #12
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    Zürich-Bangkok-Dubai
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    Andy , didn't you manage to tame the beam on one of those with some optical corrections?
    is it possible?
    Philipp Wetter

  3. #13
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    nope .
    Eat Sleep Lase Repeat


    Aluminium Optic Mounts

    http://www.laser-man.co.uk/opticmounts/

  4. #14
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    Jan 2013
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    Gisborne NZ
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    Quote Originally Posted by Picasso View Post
    I have that same 650 and the beam does not look like that. It's big but not above 8mm at about 5-6m.
    Yep and its not just the beam size its a 1.3W thats literally about as bright as a 20mw, when you look inside it looks like heaps of beam is getting cut off before it leaves the module

  5. #15
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    Jan 2013
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    Gisborne NZ
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    two 500mw 638's arrived today from DTR MAN THAT WAS FAST SHIPPING! if I could just get my hands on analog drivers I would be very happy
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0632.JPG  

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    Last edited by jammah; 01-18-2013 at 01:53.

  6. #16
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    Jan 2013
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    Gisborne NZ
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    So just a quick question,
    Would it be possible to use the CNI OEM psu-III driver to run the two 500mw mitzi diodes in series?

  7. #17
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    Feb 2011
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    New Hampshire
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    Would it be possible to use the CNI OEM psu-III driver to run the two 500mw mitzi diodes in series?
    Possibly, but you might be able to sell the complete CNI unit and then purchase a driver of the same design as the one powering your 445's. You would have to measure the current output under modulation (a 0-5V lab style power supply is fine) in either case. The 500mW Mitsu's can run with 1A current if well mounted to the base plate in order to remain cool. Series operation is fine and I would advise contacting Pangolin Laser and ordering 2 Lasorbs model L44 392-X (one each in parallel with each red). These protect the diode from ESD and are inexpensive.

    Those blue diodes and soon the reds are powerful. If running them close to the ground... watch the munchkins.

  8. #18
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    St. Louis
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    Quote Originally Posted by jammah View Post
    two 500mw 638's arrived today from DTR MAN THAT WAS FAST SHIPPING! if I could just get my hands on analog drivers I would be very happy
    That was quick. Glad I could help.

  9. #19
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    Jan 2013
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    Gisborne NZ
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    So I have had no proba knifing the two 638's
    But wow those corrective lenses are a pain to set up

    A bit of searching has told me they are meant to be approx 20mm apart small one first, is that correct?
    Also does it matter which way the flat side is facing?

    I'm slowly getting there and more and more am I appreciating some of the amazing projectors people have built
    I WANT A CNC MILL! Haha
    Might take a fair bit to convince the wife that's nessacary

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    yes, small lens first, flat side facing the diodes for both lenses. The approx 20mm distance sounds about right (small finetuning with the beam and spot farfield will be needed) but this is not your biggest issue at the moment


    I do hope you got the 2mm lens from dave AND his adjustable diode mount, you will make your life easier. The short focal length lens (2mm) will need to be centered to the diode and the beam must hit it dead center (both pan and tilt). The mechanical tolerance of the diode mount thread and lens holder will not do this for you. You need to install the diode in the holder and adjust the focus of the spot at some distance (the further the better). Then you need to make yourself some sort of measuring setup, making sure that the diode mount is fixed in one place on a flat surface and that the beam exits and hits a target say a couple of meters away at exactly the same height with no drift left or right. When you get this almost perfect, you will have to re-adjust the focus, because it will have shifted a bit. Then you have to tweak the diode centering again. Once you are done with both diodes, then you can start talking about knife-edging, inserting the cyl pair into the beam and tweaking the cyl lenses for beam expansion.

    I hope i am making sense here, let me know if you want me to write anything further on this.

    See below what happens to the spot by changing the focus of the lens. You can also catch a glimpse of a "target" I made for centering my diodes. i have marked a vertical center line and several horizontal lines that correspond to the heights of the beam mounts i am using

    (sorry I was a bit lazy whan making this gif, it moves around a bit)

    "its called character briggs..."

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