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The drawback to that is the position of the laser in the way I intended to use it. Think about the TexLem set up for a minute. The lumia would be on the floor in about the same position Tim's was in. The graphics are rear screen projected but in the same position as the screen at TexLEM, with beam projectors on either side of the scrim - again similar to Tim's 1 watt Laserworlds. So, the audience would have the flex duct hanging down right in the line of sight of the graphics.
See below:
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Do you have a way to measure the cooling performance? What exactly is being cooled? If the air temp of the fan's exhaust is very low you may be able to slow up the fan with a simple speed controller. These AC fans, like the Patriot fans run just fine at reduced voltage and you can test this with a simple Variac. I would also look at the resistance to flow. If this can be lowered ( I have no idea) or if enhanced heat exchange fins can be added, you may further reduce the CFM requirements.
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Don't know if the airflow is enough, but you can stick your ear in these babies and not hear them moving:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showp...odid=FG-029-BX
I used them in my latest PC build and without the lights on the pc I'd never know if it was on or off.
BTW, I can't reconcile the metric / imperial size to pick the right size for you but I dare say if they were suitable, a US supplier of pc stuff such as Newegg would give imperial dimensions.
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Took a better look at the OP and I have a feeling the unit was not designed for that fan. It seems nearly tall enough to interfere with the bracket. The taller/thicker a tube axial fan ( the most common type of fan where the air moves straight through the unit like a jet engine) the higher the pressure differential and generally the higher the speed of the blades in order to accomplish this higher differential. You can find nearly silent versions of this design or under-drive this unit as much as you wish and generally you get what you pay for...more flow/pressure and the louder the fan. Before considering other fans/speeds or cooling methods you need to determine how the air is heated. Fins vs general metal hardware and find the warmest component. Then, lower the speed of the fan and determine how the temperature rises. You can use a cheap thermistor for a VOM or if you have a remote lead outdoor or cooking thermometer just tape it to the likely part and watch it as you lower the speed. I'm sure a few degrees wont matter, but without knowing this I would not start exchanging fans just in case the unit does indeed need a pretty high pressure differential.
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I do have one of the laser spot reading thermometers (of course) so, maybe I'll do a a little exploring with that. I think it may be interesting to take the fan off and run the fan by itself just to see how loud it is without the pressure of blowing into a box.
Time of course is the enemy... too many projects, so little spare time.
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So, just bring it to Boston and we'll figure it out. Ha! Blowing into the box? If that's the case then this just adds the fan motor heat to the thermal load. I have some pretty brutal fans blowing through my projectors. These are 12V DC and I run them only as hard as the load calls for, but I don't mind the noise in any case. I kinda like the Steam Punk approach to lasers and just turn up the music. I do wish I had 3 phase availability, however...
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