Safetyscan lens holder, anyone developed one yet?

[Laserhobbit]

Hi

I personally don't like the idea of magnets being the "secure" fixing for a key safety device and am not sure this would meet the health and safety requirements for secure fixing required by various legislative bodies. I would much rather have a wing bolt so no one could knock the lens out of alignment. Just my 10p

But otherwise seems great, well done Andy

Cheers

Steve

[andy_con]

I'm not quite seeing how the tilt action can come into play here. Unless the arms are taller (stick out further.) Or... the amount of tilt necessary for these lenses is a lot less than I realize. I know it's not much but, this illustration looks like there is hardly room for any tilt at all.

Other than that, looks pretty good to me.

yes the arms are tall and the actual lens holder is away from the plate under it

[andy_con]

it woud fit that gold star case fine it would just be an inch or so away from the aperture. thats not a problem

Couple of quick observations.

I'll refer to the diagrams in the order you've posted them, A, B, C, etc

Part A I think needs to be as narrow vertically as possible, so it can fit on projectors that might not have completely flat fronts.

E.g. this one (which quite a few members have I believe)
http://www.goldenstarlaser.com/boxf-p-286.html
A narrow part A would probably just sneak in along the bottom there, with mounting either side of the bottom corners of the window.

I'd quite like to see what a mount was like where the lens fixed directly to part B (i.e. without the tilt part) This might also offer the possibility of mounting the lens in front of part B (for those with sticky outy apertures) or behind (for those with flush/recessed apertures)

The tilt adjustment could maybe be handled by shims in the mounting slot.

Once the lens is in place, I doubt many people will want to swap them out, they'll either be on or off. I thought initially that I'd be swapping all the time for the most appropriate for the venue, but even the -6 was only just in MPE at 15m with 800mW of 532, so I couldn't see the point in swapping for lower powr for slightly bigger venues.

I make that 3 parts then, the horizontal plate for the projector, the main plate, and the clamping plate.

Can the horizontal slot in the part A be machined to accept a countersunk screw? I can see the part B may need to be slid down over the top of the slot in some cases.

[andy_con]

i have a cnc so the round section is just as easy as a straight line

metal all the way sorry

Hi guys,
Looks like you're doing a good job Andy

one idea I had to help reduce the machining operations and complexity it to make the two
Lens holding parts out of plastic. If it was only a few sets getting made, you could get them 3D printed by http://www.shapeways.com/ it cost around $1.40 per cubic cm. This would save you having to machine the round section with a rotary table if you are manual machining it or having to CNC interpolate it. Also you could take advantage of the flex in the plastic so the lens "snaps in" to the holding piece so it can be 1 part instead of two.

If you can reduce the volume of plastic you use by thinning out the holder to 5mm thick with webs and bosses where the strength is needed, it would probably be cheap enough to make a seperate lense holder for each lense.

Good work mate, let me know if you need any help.

Kit

[kitatit]

Ah! I forgot about that, swarf it is.

[andy_con]

Couple of quick observations.

I'll refer to the diagrams in the order you've posted them, A, B, C, etc

Part A I think needs to be as narrow vertically as possible, so it can fit on projectors that might not have completely flat fronts.

E.g. this one (which quite a few members have I believe)
http://www.goldenstarlaser.com/boxf-p-286.html
A narrow part A would probably just sneak in along the bottom there, with mounting either side of the bottom corners of the window.

I'd quite like to see what a mount was like where the lens fixed directly to part B (i.e. without the tilt part) This might also offer the possibility of mounting the lens in front of part B (for those with sticky outy apertures) or behind (for those with flush/recessed apertures)

The tilt adjustment could maybe be handled by shims in the mounting slot.

Once the lens is in place, I doubt many people will want to swap them out, they'll either be on or off. I thought initially that I'd be swapping all the time for the most appropriate for the venue, but even the -6 was only just in MPE at 15m with 800mW of 532, so I couldn't see the point in swapping for lower powr for slightly bigger venues.

I make that 3 parts then, the horizontal plate for the projector, the main plate, and the clamping plate.

Can the horizontal slot in the part A be machined to accept a countersunk screw? I can see the part B may need to be slid down over the top of the slot in some cases.

yes i could make the first part from 10mm thick ally, this would also raise the lens off the projector case slightly more. so would help it clear any metal work sticking out

[norty303]

Does it need to be 10mm thick to accommodate a countersink? That seems quite thick. What thickness were you originally thinking of?

[norty303]

That said, I do struggle to visualize these things

[andy_con]

lol currently every big of ally is 5mm thick

as this is the bit that bolts to the projector and holds everything to the projector nice and soild is the way forward.

5mm of ally under a m4 bolt is good.

[norty303]

Whats the depth of a countersink M4 head? Google images turns up something around 2.5mm, so wouldn't 7mm be more than adequate? I think the 3mm would make quite a difference to how nicely it sits on the front.