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Thread: Some Machining Shizzle

  1. #51
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    Regarding tapping i have had great luck finding a working solution.
    Now hear me out as it sound a bit odd but works great.
    So i have a very cheap 40$ HF drill press, Very weak motor.
    Position the work under the bit not under power then turn on and hold the part. (this is better for larger things vice smaller harder to hold but dont bolt the vice down)
    If you set it to the slowest speed loosen the belt a bit and throw a tap in it and pull down while going threw work no problem.
    If you use enough lube it can go threw in one pass but if you do it dry or have a cheap tap it will slip on the belt half way threw and then u just switch it off then manually turn it reverse then go back forward.
    I found almost 90% of the time i broke a tap was doing it by hand and not being perfectly straight.
    The only thing that would make this faster would be to change it to a dc motor for a powered reverse i could do each hole in under 20 seconds.

  2. #52
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    Anybody remember when Andy refused to work with metal and insisted on mounting everything on wood ..lol .. nice machining skills there Andy <thumbs-up>
    .. sorry, Andy .. just have to remember the good ol' daze every-so-often.. we were all inventors back then ..

  3. #53
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    Yep I remember my first projector made out of wood
    Eat Sleep Lase Repeat

  4. #54
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    I don't want to piddle in too much on Con's thread, but having got my new mini-mill up and running last week, I have been racking my brain to come up with a decent way of making threaded holes. A Tapmatic head would be the quickest, but for several reasons, I won't be fitting one on the machine.
    So I picked up some of these solid carbide threadmills and they're awesome!
    http://www.cutweltools.co.uk/files/ww/VTM%20E57-59.pdf

    Video showing an M3x0.5 thread; now off to try some M2x0.4!

    - There is no such word as "can't" -
    - 60% of the time it works every time -

  5. #55
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    Ouch!, at that price you don't want to be breaking any.
    Quote: "There is a theory which states that if ever, for any reason, anyone discovers what exactly the Universe is for and why it is here it will instantly disappear and be replaced by something even more bizarre and inexplicable. There is another that states that this has already happened.”... Douglas Adams 1952 - 2001

  6. #56
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    on those taps can you use a bottoming tap, it has a flat end with the thread pitch and just use them vs those expensive ones?
    I know currently ive tried alot and using my drill press plus a motor reverse lets me tap about one every 30seconds.
    Nice thing is the belt is set to slip well before the tap would ever break so no dead taps! i bought 5 and still on the first for over 3 months of actual use!
    Also i have fallen in love with my champhering tool make the screws going in to much better, thought it was my taps till someone pointed it out to me.

  7. #57
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    good work briggs, my first comment would be get ya bellows on stop shit getting in places you don't want it.

    second would be this is an open thread for anyone to post stuff, not just me. so post away
    Eat Sleep Lase Repeat

  8. #58
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    well in that case, here is some work i did after i got some advice from andy.
    These are made from 6063 1in square 3/16in thick aluminum extrusions, i used the 6063 vs 6061 because they have sharp corners and machine just as good,
    This saves alot of time vs using a 6061 1in bar stock and milling out the L.
    Also used a 1/8 bit with a 13mm flute length at 8,000 rpm
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The heads are made from 0.5in 6061 bar stock,
    Holes cnc drilled then manually tapped while in bar form the loaded onto the machine
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Done these with 4 cuts 3 rough then one full depth finish
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks andy for the help these are so great for stacking 2 red diodes.
    Last edited by kiyoukan; 06-08-2013 at 12:27.

  9. #59
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    Awesome work, keep the pics coming
    Eat Sleep Lase Repeat

  10. #60
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    Jan 2013
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    Salem, OR
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiyoukan View Post
    Regarding tapping i have had great luck finding a working solution.
    If you set it to the slowest speed loosen the belt a bit and throw a tap in it and pull down while going threw work no problem.
    If you use enough lube it can go threw in one pass but if you do it dry or have a cheap tap it will slip on the belt half way threw and then u just switch it off then manually turn it reverse then go back forward.
    Most everything I tap now'a'days is done while it's still on the mill since all of our machines have rigid tapping (and let me tell you, tapping an 0-80 hole at 2000 RPM is mighty impressive to watch), but occasionally I'll need to tap something by hand. We use a 'slipper chuck' in a drill press or on the Bridgeport. Basically, it's a drill chuck with an additional sleeve on the quill (the bit that sticks up into the head of the machine) that allows it to slip when the tap reaches the bottom of the hole. Essentially it has a clutch. Since we have a DC motor, it's as simple as starting the tap and feeding down with one hand lightly grasping the chuck and feeding it in, wait for the clutch to engage, then reverse the motor. It's a very handy tool. Looks something like this one: http://www.pipertools.com.au/tapping_chucks.htm

    If you're going to be doing a lot of holes, I suggest buying a tapping chuck. Your method works, clearly, but you're relying on the belt slipping and the weak motor of your drill press. Having a tapping chuck will make it more reliable and safer for your taps.
    Neat!

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