disintegrated solder pads

[RGbee]

So,
suppose someone, whilst trying to de-solder a cable, is stupid enough to wreck the solder pad on a badpip quad drive.
Is there any way to fix it?

[m0f]

One way is to follow the trace where the solder pad connected to and add a jumper wire to bypass the bad trace. Can be more of a challenge with tiny surface mount components than with larger through hole components.

[badger1666]

Get some solder wick from maplin next time ade
I like you did that untill i found de-solder wick

- - - Updated - - -

Get some solder wick from maplin next time ade
I like you did that untill i found de-solder wick

[RGbee]

Cheers mate. Off to pick some up at lunch. I'm guessing i'll have to do as mof suggests and somehow bypass the solder pad as there's nothing left of it

[-bart-]

Surely is possible, depends entirely on your proficiency with the solder-iron.

Post a photo, and we'll suggest a fix or an alternative pad.

[kecked]

sticky backed copper tape. Cut a piece and stick it down. Solder a bridge from a good part of the trace to where you want it. Be careful with the heat. Might use low temp solder for the repair. You'll need to rough the tape surface with sandpaper and use flux.

[-bart-]

Be extra careful if you wrecked an anode pad. It is connected both to the shunt and a feedback lead. If you don't properly restore the tiny feedback lead, BAD things could happen.

[SaltyRobot]

I've preformed this kind of modification a handful of times for prototypes at a contract manufacture I used to work for. It can be done if you have a fine point soldering iron, flux, 30AWG wire and a stead hand. Typically what we did is use and exacto blade to remove the mask off the top of the trace and solder one end of the wire to that. The we would terminate the other end of the wire on the component (leg of the IC , etc.). By using lots of flux you minimize the chance for more damage and shorting out other components. I actually prefer a little higher heat for this application as there is less time the iron is in contact with the PCB. By using the flux you have a pretty good idea on what is too long. If all the flux has evaporated and you still don't have the modification complete, remove the iron let everything cool down some and then start again. Also I would not recommend lead free solder as this will take longer to heat up and does not flow as well as leaded solder. Leaded will make the repair a lot easier to perform. If you can find where the trace terminates on the other end it also may be easier to straight from component to component with your 30AWG wire.

[dsli_jon]

...depends entirely on your proficiency with the solder-iron.

Second the 'jumper' technique... 'wire-wrap' wire works well... also, might seem 'obvious', but either use the sharpest iron tip you can find / buy, or, get a 'sacrificial' one, and belt-sand or fine-file it to a near-needle point, so you've only got a super-fine localized point of heat, that will not 'spread' much to surrounding spots / tear-up another trace...

fwiw..
j

[VDX]

... don't file solder-tips! - they're coated with some optimized alloy formula against oxidizing and for better solder-wetting ... wrecked some tips when this coat was damaged or overheated :-/

For the first SMT's I had to solder I've simply wound a piece of silver-coated copper wire around the (thick) tip of a solderer and used the end of the wire - this can be filed if needed ...

I'm soldering/brazing fine-pitch SMT's and even smaller (10 and 1 micron thick wires on 60 micron wide pads) with a stereo microscope and sometimes special self-made tools for sub-micron accuracies ;-)

Viktor