Are you just putting the files in a card and seeing if they project? I have another projector which uses an sd card and have to create a .prg file to tell the projector to play the .ild files. Does this sound familiar?
Are you just putting the files in a card and seeing if they project? I have another projector which uses an sd card and have to create a .prg file to tell the projector to play the .ild files. Does this sound familiar?
You may have to set dip switches to play from card.
Keith
Even after all of this trouble, there is a very high probability that the laser simply won't have good enough scanners to play the logo file you create.
For what it's worth, my money is on the idea that it needs a file (.PRG in the example above) which lists all of the ILDA files on the card and which is used to load the appropriate frame(s)
Frikkin Lasers
http://www.frikkinlasers.co.uk
You are using Bonetti's defense against me, ah?
I thought it fitting, considering the rocky terrain.
The .prg file that I created on an SD card is called Laser1
it is in a folder called Laser1
The .prg file I created in notepad Must be saved as an "all files" and NOT as a text file!
The numbers after the file name represent scan rate (20) and repeat times (3).
My sd card laser will not work good with anything over a 1 Gig SD card! Intermittently with a 2 gig card.
You May know this already...but if not...try it with some simple .ild files.
Try this with the program file with a .lst extention instead of .prg and see what happens!
If you get ANY projections coming out of your machine...experiment with the scan rate numbers for the best results
for Your laser. Some .ild files work...some don't...depends on your laser.
Please let us know of your progress.
Laser1.prg
planets.ild,20,3
celeb.ild,20,3
infinity.ild,10,3
brdda.ild,15,3
Last edited by rodman1369; 10-25-2013 at 23:03.
We are going to start stocking these, the key difference is the China units are 405nm, ours have been exclusively produced for 445nm.
Chuck Maricle - AixiZ
"these???" Projectors?? tell me more!!
BTW when I see the word 'Laser' i do not normally think 'projector' -- most have at least two lasers inside..
405nm is a poor choice for the 'B' in any RGB PJ- to dim to keep up with even 25mW of green-
I also suggest shying away form any PJ with 650 or 660 red- as they too cannot keep up-
400mW of 640 = 800mW of 650- as its both brighter and more concentrated beam-
BEWARE of PJ sellers slinging 'Full Color' around like is has no meaning-
UNLESS you see the word 'ANALOG'some place-- its going to be TTL blanking--7 colors and NO more-also do not waste your$$ on a PJ with 'high speed stepper motors' - look for 'galvo' and a number with a 'K' after it.-- The shady sellers will add 10 or more to the 'real' speed--
- for beams/atmospherics--- slow speed Galvos are OK- but for animations-abstracts-you wiil want 20 to 30K-- (real)
IMHO the SD cards are something to just skip and get real..
Even if you 'master' these you will soon want LSX or QS- (I can send you either)
as you can do SO much more- including audio-& easy to import complete song modules... buy the audio-import and sync ---then save workspace -
no music comes from SD cards afaik.---
in the middle between there is DMX- control--
PM if I can help--Len
BEYOND-FB3/APC40Mamba Black(clone & currently on loan) 2X 5paghetti & 2 I-Show 2X KGB 1000mW 532 DT40K (pair)XFX 1300 RGB full color RGB 30K DIY 3.5WRGB work in progress et al..assorted ttl chi-jectors--LOTS of LUMIA DIY pjs-
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