Pretty much what I thought, because they start so slowly. (But I hate the things, never really wanted to get close enough to look). That said, a lava laser might work. It would certainly sell...
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Pretty much what I thought, because they start so slowly. (But I hate the things, never really wanted to get close enough to look). That said, a lava laser might work. It would certainly sell...
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Where?Originally Posted by LaserCo
Most fridges here in the UK are compressor driven, all sealed. Either that or the three-step vapour process that has no moving solid parts at all. As far as I know, one good source of synchronous motors is electric clocks from junk shops. Getting rare these days though. And if ugly enough, likely sold in retro kitsch shops for entirely too much money. One weird notion I have is the old electric power meters, KWh meters, the eddy current-induced turning disks. That method can allow very fine precision speed control, and you can induce turning cheaply in either direction by driving low-volt high current AC through the current winding, via the main connection terminals. Which would be highly illegal if it were still measuring power you paid for, but not otherwise. The tricky bit is getting at the shaft and coupling it to shiny stuff.
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I posted this on LPF, but
Small liquor bottles are often decorative pattern glass, easy to find, have similar shapes, are probably just a cheap and have the added benefit.
Several brands come to mind.
That's looking real nice BradleyJay
I'm guessing the synchro motor in Hak's kit are from where I purchased mine, those things can be found on the back of refrigerators and can practically run forever - I seen mention of safety.
What also works and is very easy to mount are salt & pepper shakers, I found some very small ones with many patterns at the Goodwill thrift store, like these
This lumia stuff can get your imagination running wild, I have so much glass now, it's insane!
Earlier tonight I took a 532nm DPSS Lasever outside and was bouncing it off a dead Bic lighter and onto the house, it was way too much power!, the lighter would quickly melt with a quickly expanding pattern growing much larger than the house.. To explore this effect in the future I guess I need to add a power adjustment knob to keep it all in a nicely sized 'sweet spot', I could not get anything as cool as in my avatar. speaking about my avatar.. Somewhere on one of my crashed computers I have video from that same setup, yet it is the type of swirly's that 'suck you in'.. the stuff that got me addicted to coherent photons way back during Laser Fantasy's first show "Laser Fantasy"
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This is very fun but expensive learning curve. It can be done pretty easy. MAP gas and test tubes worked for me.
Wear eye protection of ya try it. Not sure if I posted the vids of it in action. Ill look.
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If you hear "torture, twist or dimple" tubes mentioned on the forum, it all provides for some nice imagery. Borosilicate glass can be fun to create images from, just be safe - keep your eyes (including sodium flare glasses) and fingers protected.
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i used a torture tube to make this:
suppose you're thinkin' about a plate o' shrimp. Suddenly someone'll say, like, plate, or shrimp, or plate o' shrimp out of the blue, no explanation. No point in lookin' for one, either. It's all part of a cosmic unconciousness.
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If you're going to be doing HOT glasswork at home, I recommend ONLY using borosilicate; It is much more forgiving in terms of thermal shock. If you can find it locally MAPP (or MAP/PRO) is a nice torch fuel because the hotter flame (relative to propane) gives you better localized heating of your glass. That translates into better control of your "dimple placement" when making torture tubes.
If you've got access to a kiln or annealing oven, soda-lime (soft glass) can be worked into some VERY nice optical widgets!
The best eye protection for glassworking in terms of protection from sodium flare has didymium lenses. Didymium blocks the yellow from the sodium flare while still letting you see the other colors that tell you important things about your glass' working temperature.
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Is there any special things to do when the glass vials are the cheaper kind.
Guess I will be finding out soon.
If it's not borosilicate glass, you may be in for a surprise. I also don't recommend re-heating any borosilicate after it has been heated the first time. Shattered glass can happen - I wear didymium glasses ALWAYS when heating glass. I will add that "shower glass" is frequently mentioned with lumia. If any of this glass is tempered (it should be), you will not be able to cut it with a glass cutter! It too will shatter. You must use a glass saw if you want to use this type of glass, but I see no reason to select tempered glass, as there are other patterns available, as mentioned earlier.
Greg
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This is some what I use. A lot of the samples are unusable for lumia but there are some tasty ones in the lot too that have some nice throw. http://www.whittemoredurgin.com/0061.html
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