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Thread: Scannermax 506s

  1. #251
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    Quote Originally Posted by White-Light View Post
    Thanks for the suggestion but my scanners are only rated at 28K.
    Work up from 12K? I think that's what the ILDA pattern was originally for...

    Anyway, if you can find the angle at which un-interpolated and rotating LaserMedia pattern's diagonals start to bow apart you'll have a starting point. If the angle is more than useful you might set to 30K and retry widening from small angle, just to see what you get. 28 can't be far enough from 30 to make the test useless. No doubt there's something to this that I don't know, but it seems weird to me that a scanner would be rated for 28K when 30K is so close. Maybe they tried for 30 but couldn't reach the 8 degrees required to specify. The test could at least confirm or disprove that thought. I imagine better precision testing might be to get the circle to touch the square's sides in the ILDA pattern at whatever degree scan angle the 30K speed will let you reach. That circle is all ballistic response but it's looking for the -3dB filter cutoff. If both tests pass ok with 8 degrees or better those scanners might pass as 30K. If not I'm curious about what's stopping them.

  2. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by The_Doctor View Post
    Work up from 12K? I think that's what the ILDA pattern was originally for...

    but it seems weird to me that a scanner would be rated for 28K when 30K is so close. Maybe they tried for 30 but couldn't reach the 8 degrees required to specify.
    I think that's what it is as these are Kvant scanners. They're a reputable company so whereas most companies would probably market them as 30K, Kvant markets them honestly as 28K @ 8 degrees. They do make 30K but there are slight defects in some patterns eg with lots of circles on the screen at the same time, the circles aren't quite perfect - you'd have to be looking, but there is a slight join. Back them off to 28K and they are perfect. As Kvant do perfection, I think that's why the rating is honest.

  3. #253
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    With these silicon mirrors on the Scannermax 506's, is it still safe to use First Contact to clean the mirror surface?

    Carl
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  4. #254
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    I have DT 40 pro's and ScanPro 40's. I always thought the ScanPro's were smoother and gave a better image. Have the Scannermax been tried with ScanPro amps? I don't know much about scanners but could be interesting...

    Mark

  5. #255
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    that's A GOOD QUESTION as I just ripped the coating off my 6215 mirror

  6. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by kecked View Post
    that's A GOOD QUESTION as I just ripped the coating off my 6215 mirror
    I saw that but had no useful comment to make.. Only thing I could think of was 'was it an original Cambridge mirror, or something else?'

    I don't know enough about First Contact, but I'd go with the acetone or methanol drop-drag wipe where possible, knowing it's been trusted for a long time. The shinier the substrate, the less likely the bond to a layer on top will be very strong unless the chemistry is specifically aimed at using bonds available in the atoms. I don't know enough about the materials to say any more.

  7. #257
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    its original mirrors as they came with the scanners. but that's not for this thread

  8. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by The_Doctor View Post
    I don't know enough about First Contact, but I'd go with the acetone or methanol drop-drag wipe where possible, knowing it's been trusted for a long time. The shinier the substrate, the less likely the bond to a layer on top will be very strong unless the chemistry is specifically aimed at using bonds available in the atoms. I don't know enough about the materials to say any more.
    I don't know what's in 1st contact but it's always struck me as just being "dope". If you've ever built model aircraft or the like you'll know what I mean. Dope is a strong smelling mix of chemicals typically applied to paper or fabrics to achieve a tightening effect. Get it on a surface though or your fingers and it dries and forms a skin that then peels off in one piece (starting to sound like FC?). (I'm unsure of which chemical I had as there are several different ones probably cellulose acetate or nitrocellulose).

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aircraft_dope

    Right from the very start I've always wondered if FC was actually dope or if not if dope would do - its really cheap from model shops for quite a large tin.

    eg. http://hurricanemodels.co.uk/engine/...earch?ssv=dope

    (BTW I know nothing about that company, they were just the 1st ones to come up via google with prices.

    If anyone tries dope having read this thread, it's at your own risk.

  9. #259
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    A few years of mis-spent youth made me forget that I'd first heard of dope in the context of paper speaker cones. A sticky film may be a risk to coatings depending on whether it is pulling, or peeling. I don't know how that quantifies, but I do know that if it can be folded back over itself as it peels, the stress on the solid surface is reduced a lot. If I were using it I'd play with it on the closest disposable material worth testing it on. Cheap front surface mirrors exist, but maybe not helpful, the coatings might be totally different.

    Sorry Kecked, I figured in a thread with scanners with mirrors means the diversion might be as well here as anywhere... I think someone else posted a problem with First Contact but I can't remember what it was.

  10. #260
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    until this I've never had an issue with it.

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