Cree XR-E at 240 lumens?

[The_Doctor]

I waited a week for some layout marking fluid to arrive, and it turned out to be crap. So crap I'd complain to the seller if I'd bought a crate instead of just two cans, it does not 'not rub off' and it doesn't scribe cleanly without flaking. It was no better than a layer of dark blue chalk dust with some dodgy nonadhesive binder in it.

So... does anyone know what will spray onto a clean degreased copper or aluminium surface so that thin gaps between tracks can be manually scribed without risk of easy damage to the remaining surface, the prepared surface then etched in ferric chloride, and the remaining resist layer wiped off with an acetone soaked rag?

No guesses please, or suggestions of things to try, I need examples of specific paints or other spray-can contents that someone already knows are ideal to do what I just described.

[steve-o]

I dont know that answer, but you could post your question here:
http://cr4.globalspec.com/
They're a pretty smart group of scientists and engineers.
If someone knows , you'll get an answer.
You may have to subscribe or maybe just log in as a guest, I cant remember, Its been a while since I joined that group, but they can be really helpful.

[The_Doctor]

Nice. Done:
http://cr4.globalspec.com/thread/9070
Looks like a useful site to revisit. Not sure how guests manage to write newlines to their text. I see they can, but it doesn't work for me, I got a big paragraph instead of four small ones.

[steve-o]

I just hit <enter> and it inserts a line-space between paragraphs. Maybe diff browser configs? Good luck w/ your answer. I hope somebody can help you with this.

[PNjunction]

Not sure how guests manage to write newlines to their text. I see they can, but it doesn't work for me, I got a big paragraph instead of four small ones.

If that forum accepts HTML code, manually typing in a break tag will do it.

Ex.

Jack and Jill went up the hill
<br>
Both with a buck and a quarter
<br>
Jill came down with $2.50

Good luck on this endeavor! Sounds pretty wild if you can get a good manufacture technique going. If you don't mind my saying so, however, I can't help but think a much less complicated, yet removeable, and potentially more effective solution may fit the bill... all without the nasty chemicals. Unless you like nasty chemicals, which I sort of do as well... hehe.

I've been quite busy lately, but as soon as a few "life" items are out of the way, I'll be making a few improvements to lantern mod, and a photo or two will show how I intend to mechanically secure the emitter to the sink. It won't be the prettiest piece of sh.. errr.. kit, but then again, it is The Excrelamp.

[steve-o]

Excrelamp

Ummm- that does have a nasty ring to it

[PNjunction]

I'd imagine anything beginning with "excre" could be associated with a nasty ring.

[The_Doctor]

*badump*

It's the way we tell them.

[The_Doctor]

That epoxy and thin FR4 idea won't work. My results were such a total spazz that I won't try again.

I got the stuff etched fine, got the metal parts made perfectly too, then when I had to cure the epoxy the stuff slides on the metal like smooth oil and it cures with the board in the wrong place, and by the time you notice, nothing can be done unless you spend all your time nursing it like a naughty baby and even that won't work because the epoxy will be constantly disturbed and will never cure properly.

If you clamp it you won't be able to remove the clamp because you must clamp the entire board. It's so thin that there is nowhere for overspill to go except to glue the clamp to the work permanently. It's impossibe to keep it in one place while it cures. Total waste of time, I need a way that succeeds 99&#37; of the time, not one that will fail 100% of the time unless you can arrange an absolutely flat and level system, and even then pressure differences will force it to move.

The serious problem with those 'lens' light guides is they must fit on a flat surface while covering an LED fixed to that surface. That puts extreme limits on the mounting method. Now it seems there is only one way: Use standard stiff board, and forget about trying to keep them cool.

[steve-o]

Do you have a picture of what you're working with Doctor? I'm curious.