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Thread: Bizarre simpledrive II driver problem

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Fort Mill, SC USA
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    Thatís a good way to save a half centimeter or so. I cut a couple lengths of heat shrink tubing to keep everything insulated. Electrical tape eventually comes off in warm conditions in my experience.

    David
    "Help, help, I'm being repressed!"

  2. #62
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    Nov 2014
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    mid michigan
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    yeah for some reason I was not getting anything from my SBC E-mail, I usually don't have that problem, I will gig deeper into the settings to make sure that does not happen again, I had gotten earlier replies, so no clue on that, I got this diode in today as you had tracked, thank you so much!
    This thread has been interesting as well, thank you!
    Polk SDA SRS, Luxman M117, Onkyo 504, 7.62X39, sometimes a ball on a string is the greatest of toys for us nonhuman types. oh and some lasers, lots of lasers

  3. #63
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    Nov 2014
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    I started using the brass blocks my self, easer to mount and you don't need to have a press fit in diode so it's possible to pull the diode with out destroying it, I am going to epoxy the lasorb on top and use heat shrink as well
    Polk SDA SRS, Luxman M117, Onkyo 504, 7.62X39, sometimes a ball on a string is the greatest of toys for us nonhuman types. oh and some lasers, lots of lasers

  4. #64
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    Nov 2014
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    mid michigan
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    I changed the current sense resistor to .5 ohms and am quite pleased with how the driver functions now, I ordered a few other resistors to convert them over for my low power applications. I am wondering if it's wise to make a sub board with both a .1 and a .5 ohm resistor with a switch to select one or the other, I don't always keep the same drive for just one application, if I had the money ideally I would just have extra drivers
    I like that these use a large resistor that is easy to mod, drivers with SMD resistors suck to change out with out a hot air tool.

    I have unrelated question but since the brass block style mounts came up, I cant get the optics on them to focus to a point, but the optics from the cheaper round mounts like what DTE sells work great.
    I don't know what to call the round mounts? the type where they are press fit in.
    the focus I get with the glass ones looks like a tad pole or tear drop(dead sperm cell if you will), I was thinking it was contamination but they look clean and scratch free. optics is not one of my strong points
    Last edited by Draco; 06-13-2018 at 19:25.
    Polk SDA SRS, Luxman M117, Onkyo 504, 7.62X39, sometimes a ball on a string is the greatest of toys for us nonhuman types. oh and some lasers, lots of lasers

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Yeah, I picked up 10 of the shunt resistors myself, but haven't converted my 2.5A SimpleDrives yet.

    Regarding your questions on colimation lenses, we've covered this a few times, but its been a while. First, with regards to Dave's at Lasershowparts brass mounts; you need to take off the focus ring from the rest of the colimation lens in order to screw it in far enough to focus the beam properly. Whether you are talking about G2 lenses or acrylic, these generally need to be screwed in to the point that the lens is almost flush with the brass mount itself. You may be able to do this with your fingernail or a jeweler's flat-head screwdriver.

    You also need to ensure that its in tight enough to be centered and won't drift over time when things heat up and cool down. I use plumbers thread seal tape for this. I cut off a length on my bench about three to four inches long and then cut it lengthwise into two or three long strips. I then wrap it around the colimation lens exit side (the one with the notches) counterclockwise (if the exit side is facing you) fairly tight two or three times. Make sure to stop on a full revolution and cut or break the tape at that point. You are trying to make the colimation lens centered with the diode, otherwise you end up with the teardrop focus you were talking about.

    Now you will notice that the colimation lens starts to get tighter to install as you get to the point with the plumbers tape. It should be tight enough not to move when focused, but not so tight that you damage the colimation lens 'notches' when you are tightening it. If you bend those notches, you won't be able to screw in the lens enough to focus it. If the lens is still fitting in too loose, add another round of plumbers tape. (I start with two rounds and add another as necessary.) You could also use lok-tight for this final step once you are sure everything is perfect.

    Now, getting the lens in place with two or three rounds of thread tape takes more effort, of course and will do a number on your nails. Alternatively, I suggest making yourself a little tool of thin (about 0.2mm) aluminum. Just cut a 1 inch x 4 inch strip and bend it 90 degrees about 1 inch in. This will allow you to screw in the lens without damaging the notches or threads unless you have too much tape on the threads. You may be able to accomplish the same with two micro screwdrivers, but you need really steady hands to keep from slipping and scratching the lens or damaging nearby components.

    That's about it. Oh, finally in regards to the 'bullet' modules like DTR sells versus Dave's, its a matter of personal preference. The bullet modules are easier for new builders to work with as DTR solders the wires to the diode leads for you. Using these mounts also allow you to rotate the modules within the SK-12 mounts so that you can match up the slow-axis/fast-axis orientation across your diodes. They are also a bit cheaper.

    Dave's brass modules are smaller and mount lower making them more appropriate for small, aesthetically pleasing builds (in my opinion) as compared with a bunch of SK-12 mounts holding bullet modules. Dave's diode mounts also mount consistently flat to your optic plate making accurate near-field alignment easier than the SK-12 approach. Personally, I started Dave's mounts, switched to the SK-12s and then returned to Dave's mounts after a couple builds. All of my builds now utilize Dave's mounts.

    I hope this helps!

    -David
    "Help, help, I'm being repressed!"

  6. #66

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    Sorry, I was not able to visit PL daily
    I was just confused by not getting any feedback from you, and wondering when I will get the 490nm diode.
    Don't forget to set the quiescent current using "zero" pot, it may be unbalanced after replacing the shunt
    I changed the current sense resistor to .5 ohms and am quite pleased with how the driver functions now
    No, we are basically discussing the consequences caused by Lenz's Rule. I'm trying to explain that this rule applies to any electrical circuits, not only for my driver
    I have not followed the whole thread but is there any possibility of a back reflection blowing the diode? Calcite does strange things to light. Some diodes are very sensitive.

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