Glass disks for Lumia, plus other parts

[Bradfo69]

I agree with everyone. Price is key (well.... sorta ) And, like them I already have all kinds of glass, and wheels, and lenticular plastic, and torture tubes - made and unmade - and motors, and doorknobs, and crystals, and controllers, and circle cutter, and other glass cutters, and oil, and..... But yes, I'd likely buy some of your stuff too.
.
Time. That's the real commodity here. Can you sell "spare time"? If so, I'm interested!

[buffo]

almost all of the glass I have collected is samples and scraps. I take one of my 532nm pointers with me to check them out.

Many years ago Greg did a Lumia presentation at SELEM, and when talking about how to find good glass samples for Lumia he suggested taking a green laser pointer with you to the hardware store to "demo" the various shower glass that they have available.

So as far as cost for cut and drilled discs, 3-4 inches, I don't see the above quoted price of $8-$10 as being unrealistic.

Just a suggestion: you may not need to drill a hole in the center. The wheel I got from Greg had a plastic "top hat" that was glued to the center with some epoxy. (JB-Quick) The wide, flat part was stuck to the glass, and the tall, narrow part had a 2 mm hole to accept the shaft of a drive motor...

this would be what in my RC aircraft hobby would be called a "short kit". Most of what you need, all the electronics, power supply for the motor, some discs and maybe some type of motor mount to get it up and running within 30 minutes to an hour!

That is actually quite a bit more kit than I was expecting, but that's a good thing!

Mounting platform or enclosure, lasers and and laser mounts would be up to the user.

Agreed.

I will try to get some videos of the different patterns and wavelengths.

I would love to see the cyan/yellow mix!

The problem with shower glass is it it tempered so it explodes if cut or so I have been told. Didn't try it myself.

You are correct in that glass can not be cut once it has been tempered. If you try to cut tempered glass it will instantly shatter into hundreds of tiny pieces.

However, not all of the bumpy, marbled-looking glass you find in stores is tempered. That's why you are able to cut it. But you do need to check first, before you buy the glass, because if it *is* tempered you won't ever be able to cut it.

Time. That's the real commodity here. Can you sell "spare time"? If so, I'm interested!

That would be a booming business indeed! (Selling time...)

Adam

[dkumpula]

. . like them I already have all kinds of glass, and wheels, and lenticular plastic, and torture tubes - made and unmade - and motors, and doorknobs, and crystals, and controllers, and circle cutter, and other glass cutters . . .

The list of what Brad doesn’t own is much shorter than the list of what he already has. 🤭

[hakzaw1]

....I give the glass shop guys free $3 green pointers--and they save scrap glass that cuts easy.
..and later I can give a 405 or red--all $3 free$hip these days.

I never felt the need to drill holes--JB weld-on plastic 'mushroom'.

BTW anyone ever see a 532 penpointer laser 'turn' yellow (to our/my eyes) in the presence of an Argon blue running in same area? I need to repeat that---just in case it was just me.

[Bradfo69]

Rather than drilling holes or, gluing on hubs, I have found that having a hub just on the motor shaft with a heavy duty Velcro dot or small square on the hub and the center of the wheels has worked very well. Easy to do, easy to swap out wheels.

[GRN05GT]

Yes, drilling center holes is really not needed if you have a good way to mount them. You still need a hub, or "top hat" type of mount. I have done that in the past and even glued a steel washer to the disk and a rare earth magnet to the hub. Makes changing out easy. Only reason I did holes on this last batch is I didn't have a hub for the new motor but it had a 2mm screw hole in the center and I had the bits to drill it.

Going forward, I may have a fix for that. I may be able to produce hubs, motor mounts and other items. I do own an MP Select 3D printer. I am just getting used to using it. I have printed many Thingaverse files, but I need to refresh my CAD skills to produce things. Been many years since I drew things in CAD.

[buffo]

glued a steel washer to the disk and a rare earth magnet to the hub. Makes changing out easy.

That's even better than the velcro idea that Brad had! Brilliant!

I may be able to produce hubs, motor mounts and other items. I do own an MP Select 3D printer.

Ahh... So you could print the "top hats" if needed. Another good idea.

Honestly though, I love the idea of the washer and rare-earth magnet.

Adam

[dkumpula]

Honestly though, I love the idea of the washer and rare-earth magnet.

Agreed, but I would just add that approach would be appropriate for slow, smooth rotation. If you had a multi-slot wheel that jumps to the desired slot fast, the magnet is likely to slip or drop the wheel altogether.

David

[clickamouse]

Hi Guys;

I've been meaning to chime here for a while, finally getting my act together re loom disks.

I read that Haksaw used magnets for mounts; didn't see pix but it inspired me to adapt this system:

Attachment 54207

I drill my 1/4" center holes and epoxy washers to the disks as mentioned.

Here is the assortment of scan-through disks I brought to the Hereditary shoot (in a lunchbox):

Attachment 54208

You can see this in action here:

http://mondodyne.com/b2b/smbiznet.227.shtml

Finally, here is my current project under construction, which involves 9 Lumiators rear-projected onto a screened cube in a botanical garden in Madison WI:

Attachment 54209

More info about this project here: http://mikegouldlaserartist.com

This gets installed August 13th; check it out if you're in the area.

Lux Plus Esto...Mike

[laserist]

On the other hand having holes and hubs allows you to change the spacing between disks and/or stand off effects, and that can make a whole lot of difference...