ILT 5470K head wiring diagram?

[mixedgas]

see attached...

Data Sheet

3-4-4-4, RYGB I was close....

With G meaning 520 KR line... Not mixed gas....

Steve

[nickjandrews]

Still want any more pics? I can try to get some this weekend. I emailed DZ Lasers, will see what they say. So does it appear that it should be safe to at least hook it up with a remote, fan and power up for trials? You mentioned something looks odd. Was that the possible tube replacement? Most of the ILC heads I have seen listed show a lot more hours on them. So I am hoping this one is indeed a low hours tube that will work, even if it is low power.

Ah, it has , I suspect, a DZ laser replacement tube... Which is more akin to a 60K tube then a ILT tube.

My guess is very low power, 5-5-5 RYB, and not designed to be abused.

If you send a picture to DZ laser of that serial tag, they may help you out.

You probably need at least 350 CFM of total airflow from Lid or Side fans or a combination of both. It has fan grills,, so that would make it a lid fan or external fan.

Clue is DZ in the part number...

http://www.dzlaser.com/

Steve

[mixedgas]

The pic on the DZ web site shows the IEC connector, looks like a FAN PWR OUT Conn to me...

Yep, power it up, but DO NOT feed power into the IEC..

Keep the amps down. If it lights, give it a while at low amps while properly cooled to getter any evolved hydrogen etc.

Pure KR is really pressure sensitive, let it settle down before tweeking optics.

Steve

[mixedgas]

It may, just may, run with no remote.. Try that first, as that "Norm" switch is not a normal ILT thing. Which suggests this was customized for a microscopy customer.

Steve

[nickjandrews]

Well it powered up, but she no lase... I get the blue glow, it looks like a spot offset inside a halo. Several different combos of lights on the remote with different settings.

I don't think I ever got the 'interlocks' light to go off or turn green. Guess I need to open the cover again and check the switch. Still need to figure out screw size and get proper screws. These janky ones may not be holding the cover tight enough.

[nickjandrews]

A few pics of the remote lights. Never got the graphic scale to move either, although the blue spot does brighten by cranking the power knob on remote. Laser seems to behave the same whether remote is connected or not. The LOW/NORM switch on laser also seems to do nothing.

Need to mix and place concrete in the morning, then go to a luau. Might be able to get back to this on Sunday.

If I decided to obtain more ILC heads, is it generally safe to run any of them with this PSU?

[nickjandrews]

Hello Steve,

Do you think it's possible the ignitor will not fire if it doesn't sense a load on the fan connection on the head? I didn't try powering a fan off that the other day. I will see about trying that tonight to see if it makes any difference at all, and check the interlock switch first.

The pic on the DZ web site shows the IEC connector, looks like a FAN PWR OUT Conn to me...

Yep, power it up, but DO NOT feed power into the IEC..

Keep the amps down. If it lights, give it a while at low amps while properly cooled to getter any evolved hydrogen etc.

Pure KR is really pressure sensitive, let it settle down before tweeking optics.

Steve

[nickjandrews]

Last night I looked at the mirror screws on the ends and it is quite obvious they have been adjusted quite a bit. Hex sockets in screws are worn like someone was using the wrong size wrench in them! There might have been blue loctite on the fine thread screws, but it's been worn off by turning them. And the front plate is at an obvious angle from vertical vs the chassis. I assume that is why I can't get light through the tube and see it in the rear end stem area. If I remove the opaque safety cover from the rear end and hold a bright LED light at the outlet aperture, I can see light through the tube though the HR mirror blocks most of it of course. Looks like I will need to try and set up with a HeNe or other laser to try and align the mirrors. Never gone through that before!

One bright note is that I made an adapter cord for IEC female connector so I could plug a fan into it and while it might have a short or not enough fan load, it does power the fan much of the time and when it does, the 'laser head cooling' light lights up green on the remote. So that at least is progress, right?

see attached...

Data Sheet

3-4-4-4, RYGB I was close....

With G meaning 520 KR line... Not mixed gas....

Steve

[mixedgas]

That is progress. Where are you located?

Steve

[nickjandrews]

I'm in San Antonio. I bought another ILC head cheap. It's a 5490A-00C model. Connected it last night to the power supply and it seems to also not lase. Produces an odd multi-colored spot that is not focused/collimated. Reds and blues. There was a piece the seller unscrewed off the 'snout' for shipping that I didn't reattach or look at. Wonder if there's a lens assembly in that... Got it for like $63 shipped, so wasn't expecting much. Here it is:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/37430795328...mis&media=COPY

If I can get a break where it's not so hot out in the shed/shop, I'll try checking those voltages. Need to work on the AC unit for the shed though as it's not cooling at all right now. Mini-split refrigerant leak or something. Fun stuff. But when it's 100 degrees in there, hard to do much detail work.