ILT 5470K head wiring diagram?

[nickjandrews]

Hello! I recently obtained an ILC 5470K head and power supply from feebay, and well the mismatched screws may just be hiding some major if not fatal issues... I really hope he didn't try running this thing for long without a cooling fan installed, if at all.

Inside the head, it looks like a wire may be missing from a bridge rectifier near the output end. Bridge is fed from the resonator board. There a board next to the bridge with an unpopulated spade terminal...it's a thermistor PCB and has only a single wire to it from the bridge. Will snap a few pics.

On teh dual fan side, it has an IEC female receptacle that has wires running over to a starter board, I think. Seems odd. Is this just for aux power for fans?

This head looks a lot different from my Omni heads and maybe from the two ALC 60X that I have, although I haven't really opened one of those up yet to peek inside.

So I am looking for a wiring diagram or any info on these ILT heads. Thanks in advance!

[mixedgas]

The bridge rectifier is the isolation / blocking diode for the ignitor pulse and anode lead. One wire is always missing.

When comparing ILT to ALC/OMNI/NEC/ etc. Everything you know is WRONG.

Pinout is different, dipswitches in the PSU set light or current mode, 110VAC/220 VAC raw are in the head, and the PSU senses fan current present / not present. Ignitior control is different, remote is powered off 110VAC from the PSU, I could go down a long list.

Remote control concept is very different with some math and isolation done in the remote in some cases., What do you have for a PSU?

Lots of pictures would help, and the former chief PSU designer of ILT had no drawings etc as of a few months ago when I asked.

I have four in my collection and one working remote. I'll help you but this will take time.


Steve

[mixedgas]

From my notes, please check with Ohm Meter:

1 - Cathode heater
2 - Housing Interlock
3 - Protective earth
5 - Housing Interlock
6 - Anode
7 - Head fan AC supply
8 - Ground (insulated)
10 - Power control
13 - + 15V DC
14 - -15V DC
17 - Ignition voltage trigger voltage in
18 - Thermal switch Interlock
19 - Light control
20 - Head fan AC return
21 - Thermal switch Interlock
22 - Cathode heating

[mixedgas]

I have not verified this!!! From someone else's notes:

1,34: Analog Ground - NOT AC GROUND!
4: Thermal interlock: may shock you
7: Sheild/AC Ground.
14: Live - This will shock you!
16: Neutral - This will shock you too!
19: Power control - See below (0-5v - 0v = full power)
20: -15V
21: +15V
22: Light Sense: 0.1/mW For an arduino you would need to use a 10:1 voltage divder once you get above 50mW to measure up to 500mW
27: Current Sense: 10mV/A. Range approx 60mV to 120mV (6-12 amps)
28: Head Cover Interlock: may shock you
31: Fan Return: may shock you
37: Fan Interlock: may shock you

the ones I have labelled "may shock you" mean exactly that. The ones that say "This will shock you" absolutely will! Still who wants to gamble on their life. Take care around that remote connector



Sadly, there doesn't seem to be a way to turn the discharge on and off from the remote. You can put a key/e stop on your front panel using the interlock port on the front panel of the power supply to do this. Very bad oversight of ILT to omit this feature on the remote. Or you can put a flag in front of the laser that fails safe.

Making an idle/run and power control:
To avoid pot fiddling inside the supply, we'll use the head's pot as an idle control. This prevents the laser from winking out and relighting if the remote's pot is set too low. Connect the lower contact of a switch to the wiper of the pot. connect the CW side of the pot to pin 1 or the ground of an LM7805, and the CCW side to the output pin of the LM7805. You looking for the voltage to increase from 0 as you turn the pot clockwise. The other LM7805 pin goes to pin 21. Leave the upper switch contact floating. Connect the middle switch contact to pin 19. Use a suitable DPDT switch and LED's to give indicators. Up is run, down is idle, provided the switch contact with the pot's wiper is toward the bottom. Floating the top pin allows the laser head to control idle power. This has the added bonus of having easy access to the "idle current set pot" as the laser ages.

I will draw up a scematic later. Basically as the voltage rises on pin 19, the laser power increases and vice versa. When the switch is flipped to idle, the pot in the head takes over.

Dip Switches on the control board:
There is a red dip switch block on the topmost board inside the supply. If you want current control of the laser they should be OFF, ON, OFF, OFF. Light control : ON, OFF, OFF, OFF. You can also force a light feedback laser into current mode or vice versa on a model that was originally the opposite way. I vaugly recall I did this with my other ASL unit, and that gave me 5-11 amps/a few 10's to 300+mw power with the head pot. On this one I also tweaked a pot inside the power supply as lowest current couldn't quite keep the tube lit. I don't remember which one, but it was probably the stby low limit. So on that note...

[mixedgas]

https://photonlexicon.com/forums/sho...-rpc-50-remote

https://www.photonlexicon.com/forums...mer-taps/page3

Manual attached from Neurophysics at UCSD

[nickjandrews]

Hello Steve,

Thanks for the help! Yes, I figured just from looking that it was way different from the others. The PSU is only labeled as 5400. Here's the listing. I should've paid more attention that all the cover screws were missing in photos, but he said it came from a university auction. https://www.ebay.com/itm/305600816886 I got it for far less than asking price at least. First sign of dread was realizing that he installed tapered wood screws in the holes! Who does that? Hoping that's the only foolishness.

Power supply

The bridge rectifier is the isolation / blocking diode for the ignitor pulse and anode lead. One wire is always missing.

When comparing ILT to ALC/OMNI/NEC/ etc. Everything you know is WRONG.

Pinout is different, dipswitches in the PSU set light or current mode, 110VAC/220 VAC raw are in the head, and the PSU senses fan current present / not present. Ignitior control is different, remote is powered off 110VAC from the PSU, I could go down a long list.

Remote control concept is very different with some math and isolation done in the remote in some cases., What do you have for a PSU?

Lots of pictures would help, and the former chief PSU designer of ILT had no drawings etc as of a few months ago when I asked.

I have four in my collection and one working remote. I'll help you but this will take time.


Steve

[nickjandrews]

And the head. So does the head need a connection to an IEC cord then? Or is that just for an external fan? Am I safe to just set a single good high CFM fan on top like I do with my other argon ion units?

You're talking of testing the voltages on the PSU pins with it powered up but no laser connected, right? I'm a civil/structural engineer, not electrical but I do play with stuff. Built a rotary phase converter to run my lathe and mill, so...

Just got it yesterday, and have not removed the rear plate to see if I get light through the tube yet. Am afraid they may have messed up the alignment, as the front plate seems to sit too angled. If the guy tried it without a remote and didn't wait for warmup, he might have assumed it didn't work and messed with alignment screws, as folks are wont to do.

The bridge rectifier is the isolation / blocking diode for the ignitor pulse and anode lead. One wire is always missing.

When comparing ILT to ALC/OMNI/NEC/ etc. Everything you know is WRONG.

Pinout is different, dipswitches in the PSU set light or current mode, 110VAC/220 VAC raw are in the head, and the PSU senses fan current present / not present. Ignitior control is different, remote is powered off 110VAC from the PSU, I could go down a long list.

Remote control concept is very different with some math and isolation done in the remote in some cases., What do you have for a PSU?

Lots of pictures would help, and the former chief PSU designer of ILT had no drawings etc as of a few months ago when I asked.

I have four in my collection and one working remote. I'll help you but this will take time.


Steve

[nickjandrews]

I did get a remote for $50, so am hoping it works. Peeked inside and yes it is way different as well. I was able to find the same pdf files, not much info there.

I have not verified this!!! From someone else's notes:

1,34: Analog Ground - NOT AC GROUND!
4: Thermal interlock: may shock you
7: Sheild/AC Ground.
14: Live - This will shock you!
16: Neutral - This will shock you too!
19: Power control - See below (0-5v - 0v = full power)
20: -15V
21: +15V
22: Light Sense: 0.1/mW For an arduino you would need to use a 10:1 voltage divder once you get above 50mW to measure up to 500mW
27: Current Sense: 10mV/A. Range approx 60mV to 120mV (6-12 amps)
28: Head Cover Interlock: may shock you
31: Fan Return: may shock you
37: Fan Interlock: may shock you

the ones I have labelled "may shock you" mean exactly that. The ones that say "This will shock you" absolutely will! Still who wants to gamble on their life. Take care around that remote connector



Sadly, there doesn't seem to be a way to turn the discharge on and off from the remote. You can put a key/e stop on your front panel using the interlock port on the front panel of the power supply to do this. Very bad oversight of ILT to omit this feature on the remote. Or you can put a flag in front of the laser that fails safe.

Making an idle/run and power control:
To avoid pot fiddling inside the supply, we'll use the head's pot as an idle control. This prevents the laser from winking out and relighting if the remote's pot is set too low. Connect the lower contact of a switch to the wiper of the pot. connect the CW side of the pot to pin 1 or the ground of an LM7805, and the CCW side to the output pin of the LM7805. You looking for the voltage to increase from 0 as you turn the pot clockwise. The other LM7805 pin goes to pin 21. Leave the upper switch contact floating. Connect the middle switch contact to pin 19. Use a suitable DPDT switch and LED's to give indicators. Up is run, down is idle, provided the switch contact with the pot's wiper is toward the bottom. Floating the top pin allows the laser head to control idle power. This has the added bonus of having easy access to the "idle current set pot" as the laser ages.

I will draw up a scematic later. Basically as the voltage rises on pin 19, the laser power increases and vice versa. When the switch is flipped to idle, the pot in the head takes over.

Dip Switches on the control board:
There is a red dip switch block on the topmost board inside the supply. If you want current control of the laser they should be OFF, ON, OFF, OFF. Light control : ON, OFF, OFF, OFF. You can also force a light feedback laser into current mode or vice versa on a model that was originally the opposite way. I vaugly recall I did this with my other ASL unit, and that gave me 5-11 amps/a few 10's to 300+mw power with the head pot. On this one I also tweaked a pot inside the power supply as lowest current couldn't quite keep the tube lit. I don't remember which one, but it was probably the stby low limit. So on that note...

[mixedgas]

My bet is the "IEC" is an add on for fan power. The PSU can be sensitive to the presence of fan load. I have one that will not start until extra fans are attached. Replacing the single fan with a more efficient modern model with the same specs was a tenth of an amp short of triggering.

Something looks odd with your head, can we have an overall head shot?

The K in the part number means its one of the exceptionally rare low power ILT Kryptons / Mixed Gas , which the sold zillions of for confocal microscopy, but seemingly never make it to the surplus market as customers run them to death. There was one other ILT Krypton, of which I have three of, that did 75 mW of red off 220 VAC.

Probably designed for 5 mW of Yellow, 5 mW of Blue, 5 mW of red and no green.


In which case you will find the attached interesting.

ILTs tend to stay aligned unless there is serious human stupidity. I'd leave it alone, as the flexure optics mounts inside require the removal of a whole end plate to facilitate initial alignment.

[mixedgas]

Ah, it has , I suspect, a DZ laser replacement tube... Which is more akin to a 60K tube then a ILT tube.

My guess is very low power, 5-5-5 RYB, and not designed to be abused.

If you send a picture to DZ laser of that serial tag, they may help you out.

You probably need at least 350 CFM of total airflow from Lid or Side fans or a combination of both. It has fan grills,, so that would make it a lid fan or external fan.

Clue is DZ in the part number...

http://www.dzlaser.com/

Steve