Galvo Help with X-Laser Mobile Beat RGB MKVs

[buffo]

Yes I know what the little gold and blue pot adjustments do and that is exactly why I am saying DO NOT TOUCH THEM!

^^ This is excellent advice!

The reason we don't want you to touch those pots is because those are the tuning pots for the scanner amps. These are set at the factory and normally do not need to be adjusted. Yes, there are a few times where re-tuning the amps might make sense, but the problem you're experiencing is not related to scanner tuning.

Also, scanner tuning must be done very carefully. It is possible to cause permanent damage to your scanners while tuning them. It's also very easy to accidentally adjust the wrong potentiometer, which can put the amp into a state where you'll never be able to tune them properly. Since there are a total of 6 pots on each amp, but tuning normally only involves 3 of them, there's always a risk of tweaking the wrong one. Bottom line: you don't need to tune your scanners, so you don't need to mess with those pots. *

However, the discussion above got me thinking about your problem again. To recap, the video you posted appeared to show all three of your projectors operating at the same time, with the x-axis jitter only showing up on the projector that was displaying the yellow heart. (The other two shapes looked fine.) So I'm assuming you have three controllers (FB3s?) connected to Beyond - is that right?

If so, then have you ever seen this problem happen with more than one projector at the same time, or is it always just one of the 3 projectors that has the jitter on the X-axis?

If you have three controllers and only one projector ever shows the problem at a time, then I'd want to make sure that the problem isn't related to a single controller, or even a single ILDA cable. Something as simple as a poor connection on the X+ or X- pin, either at the controller or at the projector, could easily cause the jitter shown in the video. And if you don't always use the same cable and controller for each projector, then the problem could move from one projector to another each time you set up your projectors.

Adam

* PS: If you really want to know more about scanner tuning, here's a link to an old thread that talks about it in greater detail. But again, tuning your scanners will not fix the problem you're having.

[Braindead3xl]

1st question: If you disconnect the ILDA cable and run the internal images, do you still have the same X axis issues on all three projectors?
2nd question: Since you are using Beyond, and assuming and FB3 or FB4 DAC, how are you daisy chaining the 3 projectors as there are no ILDA out connectors?

First question: The issue persists when using the internal images. Also, I had a different laser on that same ilda DB25 cable with no issues.

Second question: I run them all direct from separate FB3s (8 separate ones). The Mobile Beat MKVs don't have ilda out, just ilda in. So they're all getting direct input from a FB3, and no problems exhibited with a different projector on the same cables.

[Braindead3xl]

^^ This is excellent advice!
However, the discussion above got me thinking about your problem again. To recap, the video you posted appeared to show all three of your projectors operating at the same time, with the x-axis jitter only showing up on the projector that was displaying the yellow heart. (The other two shapes looked fine.) So I'm assuming you have three controllers (FB3s?) connected to Beyond - is that right?

If so, then have you ever seen this problem happen with more than one projector at the same time, or is it always just one of the 3 projectors that has the jitter on the X-axis?

If you have three controllers and only one projector ever shows the problem at a time, then I'd want to make sure that the problem isn't related to a single controller, or even a single ILDA cable. Something as simple as a poor connection on the X+ or X- pin, either at the controller or at the projector, could easily cause the jitter shown in the video. And if you don't always use the same cable and controller for each projector, then the problem could move from one projector to another each time you set up your projectors.

I have 8 FB3s, all feeding individual projectors, none daisy chained, being fed from Beyond (although of course Quickshow did the exact same thing). And, the projectors with the X axis issue exhibit the same problem if I drop them onto a different FB3 and cable as well. It's definitely the projectors.

In the example video, the white heart is coming from a different type of projector, so ignore that part (it's a new Nova 3 watt. which is the new brand from LaserWorld that is FDA approved and I have a variance for it). But the two "drifting" hearts. The red stable one is the most stable of the three Mobile Beats, although it sometimes has X axis trouble also. The yellow jittery heart is from the projector that's about 50/50. Sometimes it works OK, and other times it exhibits the X axis issue. And the third one, well, it never did project properly because it always always exhibited the jittery X axis. That third flaky one is the one I disassembled to look at yesterday.

Such a bummer. I overpaid for them because I really liked these models so much. I hope I can get them going again.

I really appreciate everyone's help. I learn a lot from you guys here!

[dazebtwn]

First question: The issue persists when using the internal images. Also, I had a different laser on that same ilda DB25 cable with no issues.

Second question: I run them all direct from separate FB3s (8 separate ones). The Mobile Beat MKVs don't have ilda out, just ilda in. So they're all getting direct input from a FB3, and no problems exhibited with a different projector on the same cables.

Excellent. With those questions answered as well as Buffo's, we can deduct that it does not appear to be an ILDA input issue.

Since you are well aware that the external "pattern size" pot is flakey on all 3 units lets focus on that for a bit. That pot, pointed out in the image below does appear to be a dual pot. The brown phenolic material is visible near the mounting plate as well as in the rear, see image of the pot below. If it is indeed a dual pot, controlling both X and Y seperately, then it is very possible that the X control portion is damaged in such a way that it will intermittently vary its resistance to the control circuit while at rest...thus the X jitter. You would need to remove the ILDA connector interface and circuit card assembly to investigate and repair. Note that you will need to label all the connectors on that board before removing them if they are not all different sizes and keyed so they could only be put back one way. Best to label and take pictures before dissassembly. Remove the pot knob and there will be a nut holding the pot to the panel, that and the two mounting screws should free up the assembly. It is also possible that the pot is soldered into a daughterboard that then plugs into the ILDA CCA, it is not clear from the image. And that doesn't really matter except that is would introduce more contact surfaces if not soldered.

You need to replace these pots on all 3 units either way because if there is a situation where a slight movement could cause a static beam, as you mentioned, my guess is that would void any variance all by itself. This pot is located on the unit in an area where it can be easily bumped again and again thus causing a mechanical issue which may then cause an electrical issue.

Hope this helps, good luck!

[Braindead3xl]

OH WOW! That's amazing! If it's just a bad pot, and that pot controls both the X and Y, then WOO HOO! We could definitely be on to a simple fix!

I'm going to first hit one up with some deoxit (damn, I had never bought that stuff before - it's expensive! $35 for the 100% formula ouch!)...

Thank you again! I'll report back!

[dazebtwn]

While I did initially suggest Deoxit, since then you have detailed a condition far beyond my initial thoughts.

It is best, and less expensive, if you just replace the pots. While Deoxit works wonders it will not repair a damaged pot...and if you are not extremely careful you could make a mess inside the projector.

[dchammonds]

OH WOW! That's amazing! If it's just a bad pot, and that pot controls both the X and Y, then WOO HOO! We could definitely be on to a simple fix!

You might just have a bad solder connection- it's worth a good look with a magnifying glass.

[Braindead3xl]

Allrighty. I've got a half dozen pots on their way here. A whopping $2 each, and a full sixty seconds to clip wire ties and remove the ilda board.

If a $2 pot fixes this issue, I'm going to owe you guys steak and beer.