laserscope

[aclasers]

thanks,

how do i know if the qswitch is rated for contnious hold-off,
and how to make sure its got first pulse suppression?

[chad]

how do i know if the qswitch is rated for contnious hold-off,
and how to make sure its got first pulse suppression?

You have to call the driver mfg and ask a bunch of questions. I want to say isomet but I could be incorrect. It has been many years.
Remember that it is pulsed in high power mode any way and it is pretty much useless for graphics unless you are scanning really slow or are running in cw mode. We just eventually bypassed the blanking and put a heavy duty shutter in. This thing was just a beam machine so the blanking was hardly ever used anyway.

I have the collimator sorted, i dont know what scanners to go for, what do you use Chad?

Well that depends on a lot of things. If you want to run it in cw lots and higher speed graphics than obliviously you are going to want smaller faster galvos. If you want balls to the wall beam power with a big beam that will stay about the same for a long way like we did then you are going to need big scanners.

They don't make the same exact model that we used but they were basically these:

http://www.camtech.com/products/6860/6870.html

Amazingly enough a friend actually got a pair of these tuned to 12k!
Remember that 60w is average thermal power. Peak pulse power is much higher. When you get up into these kind of numbers you have to have GOOD optics and mirrors otherwise things go bad fast. You also have to be really careful about what you are aiming at, 60w is enough to set things on fire fast. And I don't mean a blackened match head

Also get some nice goggles (wrap around type) that are good for 1064 and 532. There is all kinds of ir (100 watt or so) floating around inside when you have the cover off. I measured 10 watts out of the back of the HR. Just be careful these things aren't very user friendlily.

They are also a pain in the fact that these were supposed to be used in a medical application so they have all kinds of interlocks and extra junk that isn't needed in the optics path. There is a magic button combo that puts it into service mode that will allow it to be run with some of the extra junk removed. I for the life of me can't remember what it is but you will need to figure this out.

I also would recommend breaking the optics part away from the drivers and cooling. Now days you could replace the entire computer control with a pic and a little programing. Look into this it will make things lots easier.
These things are so damn heavy it is imposable to get it up on scaffold without a fork lift, and then still hard because of the drains on the bottom. They don't stand very high and it makes it hard to use beams that are coming out at below peoples heads, and 60 watts worth of them.
Be sure to source the lamps and get a spare in case something goes wrong. We never had one blow but I have heard horror stories.

If you are new to water cooling, welcome to another giant pain in the butt.
I recommend that you get something like this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47906

This is a pump with a reserve bladder bag. also get a regulator and put some quick connects on it. Also don't get the cheap garden hoses get the good construction rated kink proof hoses. It sucks when some knuckle head rolls a road case over your hose and shuts down your show, the pump also help with this and keeps a toilet from stopping your show also.

Another thing that is a huge help is a UGC. or universal geometric correction. I understand that pangolin has this built in now but Having knobs in front of you that you can grab in a hurry is a huge help sometimes.
I think they were made by lsdi.

Enough rambling, have fun.

Chad

[OSLS]

Actually we have done many of these in the past with anywhere between a 20-24K PPS successful scan rate. We used an Eye-Magic scanner for the blanking and in this particular setup a set of Eye-Magics for the XY, but we typically used CT 6800's with large 100W mirrors for the XY.

As we speak we have 2 of the 60Watt 800 series in route and with the new Eye-Magic scanners we are expecting 30K with a slightly different optical blanking setup.

[Laser Ben]

That my friend, is a thing of beauty!

[Angelillolaser]

HI OSLS

I am working with a laserscope 804 for laser show, I am going to use the medical computer to make it (there any problem in the future?) I thought to use a scanner for blanking, I read that the laserscope on CW is turnig on/off at 25khz, and there some tricks in graphics software to make continuous, (you know), to change scanners mirrors what kind of glue could use?
Thank you for taking your time to answer questions
Angel

Actually we have done many of these in the past with anywhere between a 20-24K PPS successful scan rate. We used an Eye-Magic scanner for the blanking and in this particular setup a set of Eye-Magics for the XY, but we typically used CT 6800's with large 100W mirrors for the XY.

As we speak we have 2 of the 60Watt 800 series in route and with the new Eye-Magic scanners we are expecting 30K with a slightly different optical blanking setup.

[dsli_jon]

HI OSLS

I am working with a laserscope 804 for laser show, I am going to use the medical computer to make it (there any problem in the future?) I thought to use a scanner for blanking, I read that the laserscope on CW is turnig on/off at 25khz, and there some tricks in graphics software to make continuous, (you know), to change scanners mirrors what kind of glue could use? Thank you for taking your time to answer questions

Hey Angel - I know you were asking OSLS, but since we were also talking about these, and I am sure Fred (OSLS) will advise you the same - DON'T waste your time trying to make the 'motherboard' work - it is a pain in the 'trasero' that you don't need...

These 2 items below are ALL you need to control these - ALL the medical attenuators on the deck can be stripped off, just like OSLS' picture there shows, and I'd also NOT recommend you use the Q-Sw for blanking - TOO MUCH risk... Eye Magic blanking is the way to go, bud! And you can use a good, hi-temp epoxy for the larger mirrors.

I'll PM-you again, so we can keep chatting... ciao!

- J

[Angelillolaser]

Hola Jon!

I write you to your email, do you have plans for your nice computer, I read your post with Juntronix, I could design a computer using pic or atmel with lcd panel or mini touch screen to monitoring all signals, analog and digital, I have experience with microcontrollers and a good team of developers( 3 persons include me),

Could you like to joint knowledge and develop the best possible computer for the laserscope, using the forum as meeting point.

you could share your experience working with laserscopes, water temp, flow, temp ktp, input voltage, current lamp, input current, output power, etc

please know your opinion


Best Regards
Angel C.

[dsli_jon]

I could design a computer using pic or atmel with lcd panel or mini touch screen to monitoring all signals, analog and digital, I have experience with microcontrollers and a good team of developers( 3 persons include me),

Could you like to joint knowledge and develop the best possible computer for the laserscope, using the forum as meeting point.

you could share your experience working with laserscopes, water temp, flow, temp ktp, input voltage, current lamp, input current, output power, etc

Hey Angel -

Well, I'd be glad to share to a point - it would be better to share specific info via PM's, than one GIANT post, here, cause #1, not everybody ON PL wants to convert these - there are even quite a few 'nonbelievers' and #2, I don't personally have the TIME it would take TO recreate a 'KTP Bible' here... ie: come Jan 1st, I am gonna be very, very scarce on PL due to work...

But I am *officially* more than happy to help specific members, with specific questions / tasks, via PMs and/or phone calls (can cover more ground, faster, talking for Q&As) then back-up with emails, PDFs, etc...

However, yes, I would be interested in co-designing a 'super-controller', especially one that had a 'touch-screen' interface - that would be really sweet!

Let's KIT... ciao!

- J

[Laserman532]

Actually we have done many of these in the past with anywhere between a 20-24K PPS successful scan rate. We used an Eye-Magic scanner for the blanking and in this particular setup a set of Eye-Magics for the XY, but we typically used CT 6800's with large 100W mirrors for the XY.

As we speak we have 2 of the 60Watt 800 series in route and with the new Eye-Magic scanners we are expecting 30K with a slightly different optical blanking setup.

I love it how a laserscope 40 watt has now become a 60 watt laser. Are those "measured watts" or "marketing watts" I always specified my laser just like the manufacture 40 watts but then said "producing well over 50 watts...MEASURED" I know that a laserscope will produce 40, 50, 60 80 what the hell even 110 watts but I hate it when people stretch the truth too much and call a 40 watt laser a "60 watt laser".

It is just an old vagina wart burner that was meant to run high power for short periods of time.

Trust me, run a laserscope at 60 watts for very long and you will have a BLOWN very low power laserscope. Shit, my honda red lines at 8500 RPM but I wont hold it there and you wont hold your laser at 60 watts either. i'm done now.

[Angelillolaser]

Dear Laserman
I test the collimator that bought to you, laserscope work fine!, but at this moment I´m installing a fiber optic set and now the laserscope can be run with good divergence, I´m runing with the medical computer and doing 16w 532nm, do you think that I could have problems with this configuration? I put an interlook on the fiber board, and laserscope think that a fiber optic is installed.
this kind of ktp lasers can be worked for hours at max power?
best regards
Angel Cuesta

I love it how a laserscope 40 watt has now become a 60 watt laser. Are those "measured watts" or "marketing watts" I always specified my laser just like the manufacture 40 watts but then said "producing well over 50 watts...MEASURED" I know that a laserscope will produce 40, 50, 60 80 what the hell even 110 watts but I hate it when people stretch the truth too much and call a 40 watt laser a "60 watt laser".

It is just an old vagina wart burner that was meant to run high power for short periods of time.

Trust me, run a laserscope at 60 watts for very long and you will have a BLOWN very low power laserscope. Shit, my honda red lines at 8500 RPM but I wont hold it there and you wont hold your laser at 60 watts either. i'm done now.