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Thread: powering up Maxyz's

  1. #41
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    Hi All, me again, last post in this thread I hope for my sake and yours. :0)

    OK heres a mock up of the wires comming out from the Maxzy's..... Rob you said to wire the Modulation ground and power ground to the shield which is hopefully what I'm doing in this pic. How does it look?


    Thanks for the help.

    Graham
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails max.jpg  


  2. #42
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    Looks pretty good, a bit redundant though. You could eliminate one of the Black wires that connect the two grounds together.

    Personally what I would have done is put the two grounds together on the terminal then just have one small (1" or so) wire jump between the terminals. That way the wiring would look a bit more clean.

    -Max

    EDIT:
    Also, you might want to use a wire nut or solder the connections then heat shrink it, that way you know everything will stay together and you don't have any loose wires - even though they are ground wires.

  3. #43
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    Max, thanks, I'll tidy it up when it comes to the build, I just wanted to show you my interpritation of it and make sure I got it right.

    I might be able to get some of this built this week end.

    Will show you the monstrosity when I've built it.

    Graham

  4. #44
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    Oct 2006
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    Austria
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    Hi,

    I have a question. I also use maXYZ modules and want to power it up now. I have 5V and 12V in my Case. Can I use one of this power supplies for the modules? I have no space for another power supply.

    Thanks
    Karl

  5. #45
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    Funny you should ask. I just spoke to Marconi about this (since I am in the same situation). Marconi said that 12v should be fine as long as the modules are attached to a large baseplate or heat sink.

  6. #46
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    Here is a pic, I think this 10 mm Aluminium plate is enough :-)

    Will tell you how it work!

    Best regards
    Karl
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails P1020890.JPG  


  7. #47
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    Looks like a nice set up. If I were you though I would think about some way to mount a heat sink on that plate as well or something.

    It is a large plate, so it will take a while to heat but it will also hold heat well (thermal inertia). What you really need is a lot of surface area. Especially with the other laser underneath it.

    Well either way, report your findings. If you can get a thermometer that plugs into a DMM or an infra red thermometer and measure the temp of the assembly often and under various conditions.

    -Max

  8. #48
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    Novel set up...makes mine look like such a waste of space...yeah I know its a waste of space compared to a football pitch....

    What scanners are those and what are your lasers powers?

    graham

  9. #49
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    Hi,

    sorry for my bad english. I hope you can understand everything.

    The scanners are the so called "widemoves" from JM-Laser (www.jmlaser.com). They are nearly unbreakable and have an optical angle from theoretical 180°. I used it because i need a very wide angle for a customer of me. I will make a picture.

    It is a RGY setup. The green laser has 300 mW and the red one, as you know, 225 mW. I know it is quite less, but i got the laser cheap and it work very well.

    I made a very small case for all my lasers now. You can also see some pictures at www.laserblog.de, but I will also post it here, in another thread i think, because it is getting a little off topic.

    All the best
    Karl

  10. #50
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    That's nice

    Where did you buy the large heatsink at the bottom of your projector?

    Cheers

    Jem
    Quote: "There is a theory which states that if ever, for any reason, anyone discovers what exactly the Universe is for and why it is here it will instantly disappear and be replaced by something even more bizarre and inexplicable. There is another that states that this has already happened.”... Douglas Adams 1952 - 2001

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