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Thread: High Output Coherent Diode Lasers, I Need Some Help!

  1. #11
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    If the 60W diode is the same diode that Mariomaster has, then the peak rated current is 90A at around 3V or so.

    Is that power supply you have a variable one or does it just put out 150A @ 5V?

    If you want to build another supply so you can power both of the diodes at the same time, but separately, you can use a variac along with a re-wound microwave oven transformer to give you the proper voltage. Add a nice bridge rectifier (or several... dont forget the heat sinks!! ) and a few big capacitors to smooth out the DC and you're ready to rock... use the variac to adjust power.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Things View Post
    Dick Smiths electronics here in AU has gone the same way unfortunately

    Adam, you could try getting in contact with "MarioMaster", I believe he has the same 60W laser diode as what you have there.
    Thanks For the tip. I'll contact him.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lasernerd View Post
    Nope,,
    See you need below 22C those computer coolers will not do it!they don't go below ambient temp.
    I tried it,,temp just climbs above the working temp.I put the heat block back in the system with stacked TEC's the systems cooling loss just ate that up!
    I am using the pump from the computer cooler,Chiller for large aquarium(Compressor type)( http://www.aquacon.com/aquariumchillers.html works great!!
    My cheapy cooler!well a a little over 1k$ fishy coolers are spendy not as much as a Neslab!

    This worked when it was freezing outside http://www.photonlexicon.com/gallery...00018.JPG.html

    Currently I am working with my friends at the Danger Den(http://www.dangerden.com/store/produ...23&page=1#tabs) to make a heat exchanger plate with 300 watts of TEC.
    Good info! I've seen laser chillers go for cheap on ebay. I'll also keep an eye out for a used aquarium chiller. Now, if you are above the target temp, does the laser just loose power or can it burn up? Is that a 10K ohm thermistor in the side of the head?

    I also have a 300W TEC. Building a heat exchanger out of this would be great. Keep me posted.

    Quote Originally Posted by GooeyGus View Post
    Is that power supply you have a variable one or does it just put out 150A @ 5V?
    No, it's not a variable power supply. Any idea on how to limit the current on this sucker?

    Quote Originally Posted by GooeyGus View Post
    If you want to build another supply so you can power both of the diodes at the same time, but separately, you can use a variac along with a re-wound microwave oven transformer to give you the proper voltage. Add a nice bridge rectifier (or several... dont forget the heat sinks!! ) and a few big capacitors to smooth out the DC and you're ready to rock... use the variac to adjust power.
    I'd really like to run a variable switching PS if possible. Do I have any options there? I'll go the rewound MOT way if I have to but I'd rather not.

    Thanks Guys!
    Adam

  3. #13
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    You could use a passbank or a resistor.
    CLICKY!!!

    Admin: In the immortal words of Captain Planet: YOU HAVE THE POWER
    Admin: (To quit being a bitch)

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laser Ben View Post
    You could use a passbank or a resistor.
    A passbank would look something like this: http://sound.westhost.com/appnotes/an007.htm

    Obviously use a 3 volt Zener and a bigger transistor.

    -J.

  5. #15
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    [QUOTE=heroic;77188]A passbank would look something like this: http://sound.westhost.com/appnotes/an007.htm

    Obviously use a 3 volt Zener and a bigger transistor.

    ACK, NOOOOOOOOOOOO!

    Call me, we can work this out other ways. Those diodes blow if you sneeze, this is no place for a current limiting resistor or a fake zener!

    A passbank is a candidate, but we have a surplus place near here that sells big current limited supplies more or less what you need.

    Steve

  6. #16
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    "surplus place near here that sells big current limited supplies "

    Fair Radio Sales...?

  7. #17
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    For a passbank, try this:

    http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/argreg1.gif

    Only we would replace the two transistor diff amp with a opamp and you would need a protect relay across the diode and some soft start stuff.

    Steve

  8. #18
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    [quote=mixedgas;77190]
    Quote Originally Posted by heroic View Post
    A passbank would look something like this: http://sound.westhost.com/appnotes/an007.htm

    Obviously use a 3 volt Zener and a bigger transistor.

    ACK, NOOOOOOOOOOOO!

    Call me, we can work this out other ways. Those diodes blow if you sneeze,
    Having designed products that include circuits like this to hundreds of millions of customers I would dispute that assertion.

  9. #19
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    Circulating beer coolers are cheaper. If you need to cool below ambient, they'll give you several tens of watts of heat pump, and unlike TEC's they're ready to get rid of heat to air and they will easily connect to hoses and pipes and pumps. Best look locally though, on eBay you might find one as cheap as 40 bucks (or quid) then pay through the nose to get it shipped.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by The_Doctor View Post
    Circulating beer coolers are cheaper. If you need to cool below ambient, they'll give you several tens of watts of heat pump, and unlike TEC's they're ready to get rid of heat to air and they will easily connect to hoses and pipes and pumps. Best look locally though, on eBay you might find one as cheap as 40 bucks (or quid) then pay through the nose to get it shipped.
    http://cgi.ebay.com/CoherentT255P-So...3A1%7C294%3A50

    This looks like just the job...

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