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Thread: first light: my SP168 actually works!

  1. #41
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    Feb 2005
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    Woah!! that is black!

    here is what one of my 168's looks like
    I can see right thru the tube,filament and all
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC00220.JPG  

    Last edited by Lasernerd; 02-22-2009 at 13:44.

  2. #42
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    Nov 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lasernerd View Post
    Woah!! that is black!

    here is what one of my 168's looks like
    I can see right thru the tube,filament and all
    oakite 33 will clean that up. Flow a weak solution in a recirculating situation for a hour or two

    http://www.chemetallamericas.com/pro...leaners_O.aspx
    Pat B

    laserman532 on ebay

    Been there, done that, got the t-shirt & selling it in a garage sale.

  3. #43
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    Jul 2008
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    Marysville, WA
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    I can see right into mine as well. The picture made it look bad... The color of the inside of the cathode cover is just the color of stainless (or whatever metal it is ), no black, and the glass which flows the water through looks cleaner than yours, just a very very light discoloration.


    Also, I have a question. I actually got the laser to light on the 265, but then a fitting broke inside and sprayed water everywhere... dont worry there was no power to the PSU when the break happened. There was this overflow valve that seemed to be broken, it would piss water even when there was barely any flow, so I took it off but somewhere in the removal process the barb on the inside of the supply cracked. So anyway, before that happened I got the laser to light just fine, but somewhere during the transport the mirror got misaligned and it wasn't lasing, but the power would go up and down with the current knob and everything looked fine. I tightened up the piece that covers the brewster stems a few days ago and I think that might have moved things just enough to throw it out of whack, as they were really loose when the tube was lasing. Well before I had a chance to loosen them a bit and fire the laser again the leak happened. Also while moving the laser I turned one of the adjustment knobs by accident just a tiny bit. So it should be really easy to get back into alignment. BUT one problem I did notice is that while I was adjusting the 'field' the alarm would go off once I got past about half way. It would then shut off once I turned it back down. Any ideas on that? Could it be because the tube was only idling? Also, one last thing, the 'water' light never came on. Even with really good flow it wouldn't turn on, but the tube would still light even though the light didn't come on. Bad light bulb?

  4. #44
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    Feb 2005
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    yep,it is dirty!!!
    Mine had water flow 24-7 for 2 years!
    In the lab they kept all the lasers with flowing water.

    now about your broke heads,
    any idea what you would want for them?

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Bend Oregon USA
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    couple things, overflow squirting could be high back pressure are you sure you have the water as far as in out hooked up right. If this is the older 265 there is a filter screen inside the supply that could be clogged.

    Alarm...dont worry about that, water flow light worry about that. alarm just means low pressure for that particular current or alarm out of callibration.

    I will not give you any more help until you get back to me with the tube volt measurment I ahve been asking for

    If it will light it will lase dont worry about that just yet
    Pat B

    laserman532 on ebay

    Been there, done that, got the t-shirt & selling it in a garage sale.

  6. #46
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    Hey Pat, I meant to get that tube voltage measurement but I had two problems. The first one being I forgot my DMM (doh...) the second one was that since I couldn't get adequate flow (because if I turned it up any higher the overflow valve would squirt, and I didn't have another hose to put on it) I didn't have the tube lit for more than about 15 seconds. The water was flowing, but not enough. As far as back pressure goes, the system seems to flow pretty well. The way we had the hoses hooked up, if there was excessive back pressure we would have had a break in the hose line (we added in a 'weak point' for that purpose exactly, and it broke apart pretty easily, but even with a lot of flow the pressure of the head and PSU wasn't enough to make it pop).

    Also, regarding the water light, what should I do about it? I mean, the tube shouldn't even be able to start unless that light comes on, right? Or is there not an interlock tied into water flow?

  7. #47
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    Hey GG I have the complete manual and full schematics for the 265 and 267 Exciters
    Last edited by Lasernerd; 02-23-2009 at 14:19.

  8. #48
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    Jul 2008
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    schweet! Can I get a copy?

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