na ive got everything to buuld my own but cheers
na ive got everything to buuld my own but cheers
Eat Sleep Lase Repeat
I was thinking about doing a multi red but was worried about cooling.
How cool do these (diodes) need to be to run properly? Is that Alum casing enough?
a single 40W TEC will easily cope with heath... something like 20°C regulated permanent cooling is easy to design and low cost (current source powering the TEC, and you tune the pot til it reaches 20°C)
I would cool it as much as you can! You will get a lower wavelength, usually around 0.3nm/C so you can get it nice and low.
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Nice work, sbk.
I like that alot.
Yes, I already placed the entire module on a 40x40mm TEC, but not yet powered
I have a BIG problem right now, anf it seems to come from that module... I have a major event tomorrow, I installed the projector and all that, but I noticed that RED laser was on full power all the time!!! I discovered it was a strange ground loop between my portable computer and the projector. I corrected the problem by removing the earth on my portable computer power supply.
But some hours later, the problem reappeared, and nothing to do to correct it!!! I think it's a problem on the RED module and its driver (FlexMod N2).
So I am really really annoyed... Does anyone can help me before I return to the location tomorrow?
I posted that here too : http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...099#post101099
Last edited by sbk; 06-05-2009 at 15:34.
Put an isolation transformer in the projector.
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I'm not sure it will work. The ground is going from my portable computer to the USB to the FB3, which go to the projector ground.
Maybe I should remove the earth or ground connection on the FB3, but don't really know why doing that...
Nice job. I also have a similar project in the works for a couple of weeks now. About 1/3 the size of your setup. Sneak P. Possible problem in not isolating the diode from the base...addition of TEC cooling would solve this. I use a small spot of TORR SEAL to bond things up.
Last edited by MechEng3; 06-05-2009 at 16:36.
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sbk, very nice workmanship! I like the design. I can see that you isolated the diode cathodes from the casing with thermal pads, good but I see some gaps in the insulation at pressure points. Make sure that this hasn't shorted out for any of them. You can do a reistance measurement with the power off from the diode case to the mounts. Other than that, the driver operation is simple: mod- is the same potential as power -, the controller should drive mod+ from 0 (off) to 5V (full on)
Last edited by drlava; 06-05-2009 at 17:09.